Mark Bittman's Quick and Easy Recipes from the New York Times (14 page)

The technique of grilling fish on top of fennel or dill stalks solves a couple of problems at once: it seasons the fish subtly and without effort, and it helps prevent the fish from sticking to the grill and falling apart. In fact, this method allows you to grill even relatively delicate fillets like cod, usually one of the most challenging fishes to grill because of its tendency to fall apart as it nears doneness.

1.
Preheat a grill (for broiling instructions, see the variations) until quite hot and put the grill rack about 4 inches from the heat source.

2.
When the grill is ready, make a bed of the fennel or dill stalks. Sprinkle the fish lightly with salt and cayenne to taste and lay it (skin side down, if there is a skin side) directly onto the fennel or dill. Close the grill if possible and cook, without turning, until the fish is done—it will be just about opaque all the way through and offer no resistance to a thin-bladed knife—about 10 minutes.

3.
While the fish is cooking, mince or grind the fennel or dill seeds. Cut about 1 inch off each end of the lemon and juice those pieces; slice the remaining lemon as thinly as you can.

4.
When the fish is done, remove it from the grill, leaving as much of the stalks behind as possible (some of the burned fronds will adhere to the fish; this is fine). Sprinkle the fish with the fennel or dill seeds, then decorate it with the lemon slices. Drizzle with the lemon juice and olive oil and serve.

VARIATIONS

Broiled Fish on Fennel or Dill

Preheat the broiler and put the rack as close to the heat source as possible. Put about ½ inch of water in the bottom of a roasting pan and lay the fennel or dill stalks in it. Sprinkle the fish lightly with salt and pepper and lay it (skin side down, if there is a skin side) directly onto the fennel or dill. Broil until the fish is lightly browned on top and opaque throughout, about 10 minutes. (If at any time the fish is browning too quickly, move the broiler rack down a notch.) Finish as directed.

Grilled or Broiled Fish on Fennel or Dill with Butter Sauce

In a small saucepan, cook 2 tablespoons minced shallot with ⅓ cup each white wine and white wine vinegar, along with a little salt and pepper, until the liquid is almost evaporated. Over the lowest possible heat, stir in 4 to 8 tablespoons (½ to 1 stick) butter, a bit at a time, adding the next bit only when each has been absorbed, until the sauce is smooth and creamy. Serve immediately.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

TIME: 30 MINUTES

THIS IS A
dish that is almost too simple to believe, one that combines wonderful textures and flavors with a minimum of ingredients, no added fat, and almost no preparation or cooking time. Like the best minimalist dishes, everything counts here: the fish, the leeks—which remain crisp and assertive thanks to the quick cooking time—and even the wine or stock. The Dijon mustard provides a bit of a kick.

You need a tightly covered container to preserve all the liquid and flavors inherent in this dish, but that can be as simple as a pot with a good-fitting lid or a heatproof glass casserole—anything that prevents moisture from escaping.

1.
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Trim about ½ inch from the root ends of the leeks, then trim off all the tough green leaves. Cut the rest in half lengthwise and chop; then wash well in a colander, being sure to rinse between all the layers.

2.
Scatter the washed leeks over the bottom of an ovenproof casserole. Mix with the wine or stock, salt, pepper, and mustard. Top with the fish; sprinkle the fish with salt and pepper. Cover the casserole and put it in the oven.

3.
Bake for 10 to 15 minutes, or until a thin-bladed knife meets little or no resistance when inserted into the thickest part of the fish. Uncover and serve the fish with the leeks and pan juices spooned over it.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

TIME: 1 HOUR

BETWEEN YOUR FAVORITE
crab cake and a box of frozen fish sticks lies a world of crisp, easily produced fish cakes that make for great weeknight eating. In addition to fish, they all have two elements in common: something to “bind” the cake as it cooks and a fair amount of seasoning.

My favorite way to hold fish cakes together is to mix the flaked meat with mashed potatoes, about three parts fish to one part potato. If you begin with a mild fish, like cod, the flavorings can be as adventuresome as you like. My preferred combination is a hefty dose of ginger and cilantro, spiked with a bit of hot red chile. The result is a zingy cake that needs nothing more than a squeeze of lime.

1.
Boil the potato in salted water to cover until it is tender but not mushy, 30 to 40 minutes.

2.
Meanwhile, put the fish in a skillet that can later be covered. Add water to cover, salt the water, and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, turn off the heat, and set a timer for 10 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the fish to a bowl.

3.
When the potato is done, peel it and mash it with the fish. Add the ginger, cilantro, and chile along with some salt and pepper to taste and work the mixture with your hands until it is well blended. Shape into 8 equal burger-shaped patties.

4.
Preheat the broiler and set the rack about 4 inches from the heat source. Brush the patties on both sides with the oil, then place on a nonstick baking sheet. Broil carefully until nicely browned on top, then turn and brown on the other side. Sprinkle with more cilantro and serve hot, with lime wedges.

VARIATIONS

Panfried Fish Cakes

Increase the oil to ⅓ cup, or more if necessary. Heat about
inch oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. When it is hot (a pinch of the fish mixture will sizzle immediately), add the cakes. Cook, turning once, until brown on both sides, about 10 minutes total.

• Substitute minced garlic, shallot, scallion, or onion for the ginger and parsley for the cilantro.

• Season with a grating of nutmeg or a teaspoon or more of curry powder (in place of the seasonings in the original recipe).

• Add ¼ cup or more sour cream and a little butter to the potato as you mash it.

• Add minced yellow or red bell pepper to the mix.

• Serve with
mayonnaise
or
tartar sauce
, Worcestershire sauce, or any other condiment.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

TIME: 30 MINUTES

AN ANDALUSIAN DISH
with a sweet, aromatic sauce. Do not use canned chickpeas here.

1.
Preheat the oven to 300°F. Put 1 tablespoon of the oil in a nonstick skillet large enough to hold the cod in one layer (cook in batches if necessary, but undercook the first batch by about a minute, as it will remain in the oven longer); turn the heat to medium-high. When the oil is hot, add the fish, shiny side (where the skin was) up. Cook, undisturbed, for about 5 minutes, or until the cooked side is evenly browned. Turn the fish onto an ovenproof plate, browned side up, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and put it in the oven.

2.
Immediately add the chickpeas (with about 1 cup of their cooking liquid) to the skillet and cook, stirring, for about a minute. Add all but 2 tablespoons of the sherry and raise the heat to high. Cook, shaking the pan now and then, until the liquid is all but evaporated and the chickpeas are beginning to brown. Stir in the garlic along with some salt and pepper and cook for 1 minute, stirring occasionally; stir in the remaining olive oil and sherry.

3.
By this time the fish will be done. (If it is not, hold the chickpeas over low heat until it is.) Serve it on top of the chickpeas, garnished with the parsley if you like.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

TIME: 1 HOUR

ONCE, FOR A
special occasion, I produced potatoes Anna—a dish in which potatoes are thinly sliced, drenched in butter, and roasted until golden, the ultimate in crisp potato dishes—for my daughter Emma. This was a fatal error, because potatoes Anna are a pain to make, contain about a week’s allotment of butter, and were forever in demand thereafter. So I set about shortcutting the process, creating something approaching an entire meal. I cut back on the butter (when attacks of conscience strike, I substitute olive oil) and enlisted the broiler to speed the browning process. I figured that it would be just as easy to broil something on top of the potatoes during the last few minutes of cooking and, after a few tries, I found a thick fillet of fish to be ideal. The result is this simple weeknight dish that I now make routinely and one that even impresses guests.

1.
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Peel the potatoes and cut them into slices about ⅛ inch thick (a mandoline comes in handy here). Toss the potatoes in an 8
×
11-inch or similar-size baking pan with 4 tablespoons of the oil or butter. Season the potatoes liberally with salt and pepper, spread them evenly, and put the pan in the oven.

2.
Cook for about 40 minutes, checking once or twice, until the potatoes are tender when pierced with a thin-bladed knife and have begun to brown on top. Turn on the broiler and adjust the rack so that it is 4 to 6 inches from the heat source.

3.
Top the potatoes with the fish, drizzle with the remaining oil or butter, and sprinkle with some more salt and pepper. Broil until the fish is done, 6 to 10 minutes depending on its thickness (a thin-bladed knife will pass through it easily). If at any point the top of the potatoes begins to burn, move the pan a couple of inches farther away from the heat source.

VARIATIONS

• Toss 1 teaspoon or more of minced garlic with the potatoes.

• Mix up to ½ cup chopped fresh parsley, dill, basil, or chervil or 1 or 2 teaspoons of stronger herbs like thyme or rosemary with the potatoes.

• Season the potatoes with a tablespoon or so of curry, chili powder, or paprika or a few pinches of cayenne or hot red pepper flakes.

• Top the fish with thinly sliced tomatoes and drizzle them with olive oil or dot them with butter before broiling.

• Add other vegetables to the potatoes—a cup or more of chopped spinach, for example—but be aware that their moisture may keep the potatoes from browning well.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

TIME: 40 MINUTES

THE STURDY TEXTURE
of monkfish is ideal for roasting, but certain other fillets will give similar results: red snapper, sea bass, pollock, wolffish, even catfish.