Model: The Ugly Business of Beautiful Women (74 page)
Read Model: The Ugly Business of Beautiful Women Online
Authors: Michael Gross
Crain, Jake,
401
Crandall, Bradshaw, 69
Crawford, Cindy, 4, 9-27,
11
, 87,
150
, 412, 416, 433, 435, 451
background and career of, 18-24
first modeling job of, 19
Gere’s relationship with, 10, 25-27, 482
income of, 10, 20, 24
nonmodeling career of, 24-26
nude posing of, 13-14, 23
as symbol, 12
Times
ad of, 26-27
Vogue
shoot of, 9-10, 17, 22-23
Crespi, Rodolfo, 37
Cumming-Bell, Anne, 139
Curtis, Charlotte, 253
Cushing, Minnie, 333
Dahl-Wolfe, Louise,
28
, 38-39,
53
, 65, 76, 78, 87,
89
, 91, 95, 107, 108, 231, 255
d’Aillencourt, Simone, 209,
210
, 264, 285-286, 288, 377
Daily Express
, 164, 199
Daily Mail
, 27, 288
D’Alessio, Francesco, 391, 392, 393, 395
Dalton, Gloria, 59
Daniels, Elise, 106, 107, 110
Dano, Emanuelle, 264-265, 301
Darin, Agneta, 200,
201
Daves, Jessica, 169
Davi, Robert, 402, 410
David, Jean-Louis, 264
Davies, Marion, 40, 73
Davies, Nigel David, 179-183,
180
Davis, Gwen, 253
Davis, Mary Webb, 242
Dawber, Pam, 336, 338
Dawnay, Jean, 139
Dawson, Kim, 15, 292, 360
Day, Corinne, 485, 488
Dearing, Gérald, 281, 282
Decker, Nancy, 353
Deely, Dan, 248, 250, 337, 338, 340, 342, 477
Deering, William, 98, 105
de Gueldre, Jean-Marie, 287, 385, 396, 468
de la Falaise, Lucie, 488
De La Salle, Pierre “Pitou,” 109-113
della Schiava, Peppone, 376-377
Dell’Olio, Louis, 414
Dell’Orefice, Carmen, 75, 86, 106, 112, 136,
148
, 164, 202, 230
background and career of, 102-105,
104
declining career of, 146-149
Leigh and, 103
Vogue
and, 105, 146
Delphine, 489
Demarchelier, Patrick, 9, 12, 14, 17-18, 19, 22-23,
150
, 255, 259, 265, 267, 277, 281, 282, 310,
315
, 320, 324, 326, 376, 421, 437, 456, 485, 486, 487, 488
De Meijian, 43,
45
de Menil, Francois, 356
de Meyer, Adolphe, 31, 38, 41
Deneuve, Catherine, 173, 229
De Niro, Robert, 436
de Nointel, Jacques,
203
, 256, 277, 279-280, 281, 282, 284, 373, 377, 382-383, 456, 463
Dépêche Mode
, 280, 428
Depp, Johnny, 489
D’Erlanger, Leo, 40
de Senville, Paul, 489
Despointes, Louise, 256-265,
258
, 267, 287, 301, 303, 490-492
Dessner, Clyde Matthew, 12
Devos, Nina,
210
Dey, Susan, 244, 317
de Zogheb, Anne, 140, 141
di Cicco, Pat, 105
Dick Cavett Show
, 252-253
Dickinson, Debbie, 289, 291, 305, 352, 387, 487
Dickinson, Janice, 289-291, 310, 313,
316
, 317, 328-329, 333, 348, 355, 367, 420, 487
Reinhardt’s relationship with, 314, 320-325
Dillman, Bradford, 114, 121-122
Dilworth, Clay Deering, 98
di Napoli, Caroline, 140
Dinarzade (Lillian Farley), 40
Dior, Christian, 73, 96, 137, 138, 215, 216, 267
di Pietro, Richard, 381
Dolce, Guido, 1-2
Dollé, Jean-Pierre, 287, 307, 384-386, 396, 409, 480
Donahue, Nancy, 314, 353, 364, 449
Donovan, Terence, 153, 156-157, 164-165, 167, 169, 170, 173
Dormer, Richard, 164
Dorso, Betty McLauchlen, 35-36, 83, 244
Double Feature
(Stamp), 172
Douglas, Meghan, 6
Doukas, Sarah, 482-483, 486
Dovima (Dorothy Virginia Margaret Juba), 107, 131-136, 202, 207
background of, 132-133
career of, 132-134
death of, 208
decline of, 136
Natálie on, 133, 134-136
“Dovima and the Elephants” (Avedon), 134,
135
Dragoti, Stan, 244, 247, 331, 332, 335
Drawant, Henry, 81, 82
drugs, 229-230, 233-234, 265, 268-269, 330-331, 342-344, 353, 366, 386, 494
Duby, Caroline, 383
Ducksbury, April, 141, 176, 379, 397, 449, 451, 460, 462
Ducret, Giuliana, 289, 387-388, 391
Duffy, Brian, 153, 157, 167, 168, 169, 170, 181, 204, 229
Duka, John, 425
Dunaway, Faye, 230, 247
Duncanson, Judith, 341
Dussler, Editha,
201
Du Val, Gaston, 34
Duve, Vanessa, 491
Dyer, Nina, 139
East Side Express
, 388
Eastwood, Clint, 488
Ebony
, 294
Edelman, Asher, 479
Edelman, John, 479
Eder, Gabor, 34, 44
Egoïste
, 106
Elgort, Arthur, 255, 259, 265, 279, 281, 282, 376, 417, 437
Elite Models, 1, 7, 8, 14, 17, 19, 24-25, 37, 240, 266, 267, 284, 291, 303, 304, 355, 367, 370, 371, 397, 407, 409, 440, 449, 493, 504
commission paid by, 475
Esch’s attempted deal for, 480-481
expansion of, 460-462
Ford Models’ fashion war with, 279-280, 302, 305, 306-311, 322-323, 351-352, 379-380
launching of, 300-301
Look of the Year contest of, 451, 452, 495
Marie and, 396-398, 400, 458-462, 497
Models One and, 461-462
Premier and, 462
Prestige and, 463
Superstars Swimsuit Calendar of, 421
Trinity and, 433-435
Elle
, 20, 110, 118, 137, 169, 170, 181, 204, 263, 282, 291, 294, 317, 325, 420, 426, 429, 475, 482, 483
growth of, 430-431
Ellen Harth Agency, 239-240
Elliot, Steve, 98
Élysées 3, 276, 277, 279-280, 281, 282, 283-284, 285, 286, 300, 301, 318
Emberg, Kelly, 314, 353, 449
Enfield, Cy, 160
English Boy, 174-175, 224
Ericson, Dolores, 200
Esch, Dieter, 14, 17, 24, 478-480, 497
Esquire
, 228, 346
Euro-Planning/Stéphane Lanson, 292-293, 297, 298, 300, 398, 465
Evangelista, Linda, 7, 12,
150
, 407, 408-409, 412,
413
, 416, 426, 429, 441-442,
459
, 487
background of, 427-428
Meisel and, 433-435, 439
as member of Trinity, 431, 433-440
Evans, Charlie, 141
Evans, Robert, 141, 348
Eyes of Laura Mars, The
, 350
Face, The
, 485
Face of the 80s contest, 451, 472, 474
Faces (agency), 479
Faithfull, Marianne, 175
Falkenburg, Jinx, 55-58,
57
, 59, 73
FAM, 399, 489-490
Fame, Ltd., 352-354
Farley, Lillian (Dinarzade), 40
Fashion & Film, 239
Fashion Bureau, 81, 86, 102, 103, 105
Fashion Group, 96, 237, 425
fashion magazines, 40-41
British, 167
pay scale of, 16
photographers and, 77-78, 130
World War II and, 77-78
Fashion Model, 15, 277, 286, 376, 377, 387, 478
fashion photography:
Avedon and, 106-107
disco culture and, 226-229
first color fashion photo and, 41
first known fashion photograph and, 38
French Mob and, 255-256, 265, 280-281, 300
London scene and, 163-167
magazines and, 77-78, 130
outdoor, 77-78
Rayographs and, 39, 42
subtext and, 107
technology and, 38-39, 77-78
Terrible Trio and, 153, 156, 167, 169-172, 181
see also individual photographers
Fath, Jacques, 117, 137, 138
fees and earnings, 6, 16, 351, 500-501
of black models, 238-239
“reuse” payments, 312
television residuals, 197
Feitler, Bea, 247
Feldman, Ed, 241
Felicitas, 491
Ferri, Fabrizio, 375, 492
Ferry, Bryan, 298, 347
Fertig, Bob, 36, 37, 48, 59, 60, 61-62, 64, 65-66
Feurer, Hans, 282, 295
Fiedler, Christa, 209, 277, 285, 286, 289
Field, Simon, 314
Figaro Madame
, 428
Filippachi, Daniel, 109
Finkelstein, Alan, 351-355
FitzGerald, Frances, 224-225
Flagler, Palen, 50, 72
Flanders, Annie, 424
Fleischman, Mark, 328
Foley-Anderson, Sara, 486, 488, 492
Fonseca, José, 176, 379, 461
Fonssagrives, Fernand, 51
Fonssagrives, Lisa, 12, 51-54,
53
, 83-84, 107, 137, 398
Penn and, 84-85
Foray, Betty, 237
Forbach, Joan, 396
Ford, Billy, 123, 200, 472,
473
, 474
Ford, Eileen, 5, 80, 83, 85,
93
, 97, 113, 123, 124,
125
, 129, 130, 133, 146, 171, 176, 207, 224, 228, 229, 231, 235, 246, 248, 255, 263, 265, 266, 267, 282, 283, 284, 290, 295, 298, 319, 337, 341, 343, 348, 350, 353, 355, 364, 374, 398, 407, 418, 457, 473, 474, 479, 494, 495
Ford, Eileen (
continued
)
background of, 92-94
Brunel and, 4, 468-469, 471-472
Casablancas’s fashion war with, 279-280, 302, 305, 306-311, 322-323, 351-352, 379-380
on
Dick Cavett Show
, 252-253
Dovima and, 136, 208
Europe visited by, 138-142
Hutton and, 217, 218
Knudsen and, 363, 370, 371
Leigh and, 75, 105, 111-112, 204, 206, 208-209, 211
Mullen affair and, 127-128
Patchett and, 87-88
retirement and, 472, 497-498
Sawyer’s interview of, 468-469, 470
Turlington and, 416-417
21 International and, 285-286
Twiggy and, 187-188
Veruschka and, 187-188
Wilhelmina and, 196, 199-202
Ford, Gerard, 85, 92, 93, 94-95, 100, 101, 108, 129, 130, 132, 133, 146, 149, 172, 181, 197, 200, 202, 206-209, 221, 238, 246, 259, 279-280, 298, 302, 305, 307, 309, 311, 335, 337, 340, 343, 353, 355, 369, 370, 371, 375, 389, 398, 446, 460,
473
, 474, 479, 504
Conover and, 54-55
Mullen’s affair with, 123-128
Parker and, 118-119
retirement and, 472, 497-498
“reuse” payments and, 312
21 International and, 285-286
Ford, Jamie, 95, 123, 200, 472
Ford, Katie, 140, 200, 418, 433, 472-474,
473
, 480
Ford, Lacey, 200, 472,
473
Ford Models, 1, 14, 16, 37, 123, 133, 176, 197, 218, 229, 244, 246, 248, 259, 294, 353, 354, 440, 463, 504-505
Billingsley and, 95-96
black models and, 238
commissions paid by, 475
Dell’Orefice and, 146
Elite’s fashion war with, 279-280, 302, 305, 306-311, 322-323, 351-352, 379-380
Esch’s attempted deal for, 479-480
European expansion of, 138-140
Face of the 80s contest of, 451, 472, 474
Ford’s retirement and, 472, 497-498
founding and growth of, 94-95
Hartford Agency and, 101
Leigh and, 94, 101, 105-106, 140
lingerie posing and, 200
Natálie and, 94-97, 130-131
Paris branch of, 472-474, 480
Parker sisters and, 116-118
restructuring of, 480
voucher system and, 100-101
Forsman, Holly,
201
Forth, Jane, 293
Fortune
, 193, 310
Fortuny, Mariano,
45
Foster, Julie, 336, 376
Foster-Fell, Jeremy, 15, 17, 239-241, 478
Foster-Fell, Judith, 239-241
Frame, Bob, 19, 20
Frances Gill Agency, 128, 197, 217
Frank, Geraldine, 250
Franken, Wallis, 303
Franklin, Evelyn, 110
Freedman, Bobby, 206, 207
Freeman, Einson, 55, 58
French, John, 164, 165-166, 167, 168
French Connection, The
, 306
French Mob, 255-256, 265, 300
approach of, 280-281
Fressange, Inès de la, 380-381
Freymann, Robert, 233-234
Frieberg, Agneta,
201
, 229
Frissell, Toni, 36, 77, 108, 432
Funny Face
, 112, 117, 134
Fürstenberg, Egon von, 272
Galas, Dominique, 467, 475
Galdi, Marcella, 374, 377, 398, 412
Gallant, Ara, 191, 330
Gambier, Colette, 277, 285, 286
Gander, Louise, 488
Garroway, Dave, 144
Gastel, Giovanni, 474
Gaulthier, Marilyn, 15, 489
Gay, Riccardo, 1, 6, 8, 15, 277, 278, 283, 286-289, 305, 306, 373, 374, 375, 377, 384, 386, 389, 390, 395-396, 398,
459
, 461-462
