Modernist Cooking Made Easy (33 page)

P
ECTIN

Common Names

High-Methoxyl Pectin (HM Pectin), Low-Methoxyl Pectin (LM Pectin)

Basic Ratios by Weight

0.3-1.0% for HM pectin

0.5-3.0% for LM pectin

Pectin has long been used in the United States to make jams and jellies. It comes in two varieties, high-methoxyl and low-methoxyl. HM Pectin works best with low pH ingredients while LM pectin is commonly used with high pH ingredients, especially to make jellies and jams.

Either pectin can be dispersed in cold water by blending, then heated until it dissolves. The liquid is then cooled and the pectin will gel. HM pectin must be in acidic liquids with high sugar concentrations. LM pectin requires the presence of calcium to gel.

P
URE-
C
OTE
B
790

Basic Ratios by Weight

10-15% for films

Pure-Cote B790 is often used to create clear, flexible films and glasses from liquids. It can be dispersed at hot or cold temperatures and sets quickly at room temperature.

Quick Recipe: Flavored Glass

Take 200 grams of a flavored liquid, place in a blender, and blend in 24 grams Pure-Cote B790. Take a large spoonful of the liquid and pour it onto an acetate sheet, evenly coating it.

Leave the sheet out to dry at room temperature for several hours, or preferably overnight. Once it has dried you can take pieces of the “glass” and use them as garnishes on dishes.

For an even crisper texture you can dehydrate the dried pieces of glass for several hours.

S
ODIUM
C
ITRATE

Sodium citrate is a common sequestrant used to delay gelling by tying up calcium ions in a liquid. It is only effective at high pH levels.

S
ODIUM
H
EXAMETAPHOSPHATE

Sodium hexametaphosphate is commonly used as a sequestrant to tie up calcium ions in solutions to reduce the hydration temperature and delay gelling. Its bland flavor leaves the flavor of the dish unchanged. It can also be used on acidic liquids.

T
RIMOLINE

Trimoline is an inverted sugar syrup which helps to control the formation of sugar crystals. Honey is also similar to inverted sugar syrups and can be substituted in many cases.

U
LTRA-
S
PERSE

Common Names

Ultra-Sperse 3, Ultra-Sperse M

Basic Ratios by Weight

0.2-5% for thickening

Ultra-Sperse is a modified tapioca starch and is used in many of the same ways xanthan gum is used. It is very good at thickening liquids and can be dispersed in hot or cold liquids.

Quick Recipe: Fast Gravy

Take 300 grams of good, fresh stock and blend 15 grams of Ultra-Sperse 3 into it. Heat to the serving temperature and serve.

U
LTRA-
T
EX

Common Names

Ultra-Tex 3, Ultra-Tex 4, Ultra-Tex 8

Basic Ratios by Weight

1.0-4.0% for basic thickening

5.0-8.0% for major thickening

Ultra-tex is very similar in use to xanthan gum. It can thicken liquids at most temperatures and often has a better mouthfeel than xanthan gum does at higher concentrations.

V
ERSAWHIP

Common Names

Versawhip 600, Versawhip 600K

Basic Ratios by Weight

0.5-2.0% for foams with 0.1-0.2% xanthan gum

Versawhip is a soy protein that is used similarly to egg whites or gelatin in the stabilization of foams, especially whipped ones. It has greater strength than egg whites and a greater temperature range than gelatin. However, Versawhip will not work with products containing fat.

It is also often combined with xanthan gum for more stable foams.

Quick Recipe: Flavored Foam

Take 300 grams of a flavored liquid such as fruit juice. Place it in a blender, form a vortex and blend in 3.75 grams Versawhip 600 and 0.45 grams xanthan gum.

Pour into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment. Whisk until soft peaks form, 3 to 10 minutes. The foam is then ready to be used. It can also be stored in the refrigerator for several days and re-whipped as needed.

S
ECTION
F
OUR

R
EFERENCES

I
NGREDIENT
T
ABLES

I
NGREDIENT
T
ECHNIQUES

X = In main chapter, + in Other Ingredients Section, - Not included

I
NGREDIENT
T
EMPERATURES

When you are trying to determine which ingredient to use, the hydration, setting, and melting temperatures can be very important.

S
OUS
V
IDE
T
IME AND
T
EMPERATURE