Our Own Devices: How Technology Remakes Humanity (46 page)

29.
http://ScottHawaii.com
; Steve Scott, telephone
interview, September 14, 1999; Charles Rippin, personal communication, February 9, 2003; Kathryn Bold, “Summer Flops: Say Goodby to ‘Blowouts’ with Beach Sandals That Borrow the High-Tech Features of Athletic Shoes,”
Los Angeles Times
, July 13, 1995.

30.
Robert T. Elson,
Prelude to War
(Alexandria, Va.: Time-Life Books, 1977), 144–45; Ashizawa et al., “Relative Foot Size,” 118; Bernard Rudofsky,
Sparta/Sybaris
(Vienna: Residenz Verlag, 1987), 130–31.

31.
John Henry Thornton,
Textbook of Footwear Materials
(London: National Trade Press, 1955), 219–33; Phillip Nutt, personal communication, June 15, 1998.

32.
Yoshiaki Shimizu, conversation, February 17, 1999.

33.
Bold, “Summer Flops”; Miriam Jordan and Terry Agins, “Fashion Flip-flop: Lowly Sandal Leaves the Shower Behind,”
Wall Street
Journal
, August 8, 2002.

34.
“From an Oriental Teahouse,” advertisement,
House Beautiful
, May 1958, 97; “Dress Zori Sandals,” advertisement,
House Beautiful
, April 1964, 90.

35.
“Swan Thong,”
Sydney Morning Herald
, December 27, 1991; Geoffrey Blainey,
Jumping Over the Wheel
(St. Leonards, N.S.W.: Allen & Unwin, 1993), 299–300; Adam Edwards, “The Flip-Side of a Fashion Frontier,”
Evening Standard
(London), February 17, 1993; Jan Freeman, “Hear My Thong,”
Sunday Age
(Melbourne), December 20, 1992; Sue Hewitt, “Hits and Memories at the Top of the Thong Parade,”
Sunday Age
, December 17, 1995.

36.
Robert W. Mann, “Three Examples of Vietnamese Footwear from the Vietnam Conflict,”
Journal of the American Podiatric Medical Association
, vol. 85, no. 1
(January 1995), 61; Nguyen Bay and Thai Bang,
“Vietnam Life: Story of a Bodyguard,”
Saigon Times Magazine
, June 1, 1997, n.p.; Ed Timms, “South Vietnamese Veterans Faced Different Struggles After War,”
Dallas Morning News
, April 25, 1995.

37.
Steve Scott, telephone interview, September 14, 1999; Nelson,
My Time in Hawaii
, 8–9.

38.
Phillip Nutt, personal communication, June 15, 1998; Lu-Lin Cheng, “Embedded Competitiveness: Taiwan’s Shifting
Role in International Footwear Sourcing Networks” (Ph.D. diss., Duke University, 1996), 2–20, 77–80.

39.
Small-Scale Manufacture of Footwear
(Geneva, Switzerland: International Labour Office, 1982), 13–71, 117–19; Cheng, “Embedded Competitiveness,” 81–82.

40.
These data are drawn from telephone interviews with Phillip Nutt and unpublished reports he kindly supplied; also, “Japanese in Kenya
Work for a Healthier Africa,”
Daily Yomiuri
, May 1, 1997, n.p.; Robin Eveleigh, “Flip-flops Get to the Soul of the Nation,”
Financial Times
, November 20–21, 1999; Jordan and Agins, “Fashion Flip-flop.”

41.
Philip Williams, “Eritrean Rebel Campaign Backed by Hidden Factories, Ethiopian POWs,”
Los Angeles Times
, January 1, 1989.

42.
Jen Nessel, “Why I Love Shoes: A Social Code for Sandal Wearers,”
Self
, May 1997, 146.

43.
Paul Trachtman, “Hands-on Toys,”
Smithsonian
, vol. 28, no. 3 (December 1993), 128–33; Suzanne Seriff, “Folk Art from the Global Scrap Heap: The Place of Irony in the Politics of Poverty,” in Charlene Cerny and Suzanne Seriff, eds.,
Recycled: Folk Art from the Global Scrap Heap
(New York: Abrams, 1996), 12; Paul Webster, “Danger on the Beach: World Polluters Beware,”
Observer
, November 24, 1996; N. G. Willoughby et al., “Beach Litter: An Increasing and Changing Problem for Indonesia,”
Marine Pollution Bulletin
, vol. 34, no. 6 (June 1997), 469–78; Ian Anderson, “This Beach Ain’t Big Enough for the Both of Us,”
New Scientist
, vol. 151, no. 2043 (August 17, 1996), 12.

44.
Will Englund and Gary Cohn, “A Third World Dump for America’s Ships?”
Baltimore Sun
, December
9, 1997; William Gordon, “Christmas Comes to Port Newark,”
Newark Star-Ledger
, December 23, 1998; Paul Watson, “Calcutta’s Homeless: A City unto Themselves,”
Toronto Star
, May 4, 1996; Jennifer Lin, “Poor, Middle Class Left Hungry, Angry as Indonesia’s Economic Crisis Worsens,”
Dallas Morning News
, October 9, 1998; “Iraq: Surviving Sanctions,”
Economist
, December 12, 1998, 47.

45.
Bold, “Summer
Flops.”

1.
Valerie Steele,
Shoes: A Lexicon of Style
(New York: Rizzoli, 1999), 169.

2.
David Orr, “Slow Knowledge,”
Designer/Builder
, vol. 4, no. 8 (December 1997), 5–9.

3.
Gordon James Knowles, “Dealing Crack Cocaine: A View from the Streets of Honolulu,”
FBI Law Enforcement Bulletin
, vol. 65, no. 7 (July 1996), 7.

4.
Andrew Maykuth, “Apartheid Prison Now Memorial to Human Spirit,”
Times-Picayune
(New Orleans), March 23, 1997; Jeff Testerman, “Inmate Caught After Fleeing Courtroom,”
St. Petersburg
(Florida)
Times
, July 22, 1989; Chris Sosnowski and Rochelle Killingbeck, “Manhunt Nabs Escapees,”
The Post and Courier
(Charleston, S.C.), December 28, 1985; David Cannella, “New Shoes Trip Up Fugitive,”
Arizona Republic
, May 29, 1990; James D. Henderson, W. Hardy Rauch, and Richard
L.
Phillips,
Guidelines for the Development of the Security Program
, 2nd ed. (Lanham, Md.: American Correctional Association, 1997), 109–10.

5.
Charles L. Perrin, “Sneaker FAQ and Glossary,”
http://www.pair.com/sneakers/
; Sylvia Rubin, “Cops, Courts, Crooks and Creeps Featured in New Syndicated Shows,”
San Francisco Chronicle
, September 8, 1996; Mary Jane Fine, “Unlikely Outlaws,”
Sunday Record
(Bergen County, N.J.), November 22, 1998; Stephanie A. Stanley, Ralph Vigod, and Joseph Cambardello, “Police Come to Admire the Area’s ‘Burglar to the Stars,’”
Philadelphia Inquirer
, November 22, 1998; William J. Bodziak,
Footwear Impression Evidence
(New York: Elsevier, 1990); Andrea Codrington, “Technology and Design Run Wild in the Soles of the Newest Sneakers,”
New York Times
, November 6,
1997.

6.
John W. Fountain, “Noted with … Pride; Way Black When,”
Washington Post
, July 25, 1999; Tom Wolfe,
Bonfire of the Vanities
(New York: Farrar, Straus and Giroux, 1987), 110; William Leith, “Pump It Up,”
The Independent
(London), July 8, 1990.

7.
Michelle Higgins, “The Ballet Shoe Gets a Makeover, but Few Yet See the Pointe,”
Wall Street Journal
, August 18, 1998.

8.
Wolfgang Decker,
“Die Lauf-Stele des Königs Taharka,”
Kölner Beiträge zur Sportwissenschaft
, vol. 13 (1984), 7–37; E. Norman Gardiner,
Athletics of the Ancient World
(Oxford: Clarendon Press, 1930), 128–33, fig. 87; E. Norman Gardiner,
Greek Athletic Sports and Festivals
(London: Macmillan, 1910), 271–73; H. A. Harris,
Greek Athletes and Athletics
(London: Hutchinson, 1964), 66–77; Marc Bloom, “Judging a Path
by Its Cover,”
Runner’s World
, vol. 32, no. 3 (March 1997), 54–62; Melvin P. Cheskin,
The Complete Handbook of Athletic Footwear
(New York: Fairchild Publications, 1987), 2–3.

9.
Joseph B. Oxendine,
American Indian Sports Heritage
(Lincoln: University of Nebraska Press, 1995), 67–89; John Weyler, “They’re Sole Survivors in Race for Life,”
Los Angeles Times
, October 16, 1997; Nancy Nusser, “Indian
Runners Trounce World’s Ultra-Marathoners,”
Orange County Register
, April 23, 1995; Graciela Sevilla, “Running with ‘the Light-Footed Ones,’”
Arizona Republic
, June 4, 1995; Peter Severance, “The Legend of the Tarahumara,”
Runner’s World
, vol. 28, no. 2 (December 1993), 74–80; Peter Nabokov,
Indian Running
(Santa Barbara: Capra Press, 1981), 179–82; “Mohave,”
The Gale Encyclopedia of North American
Tribes
(Detroit: Gale Research, 1998), vol. 2, 206–11.

10.
Michael Olmert, “Points of Origin,”
Smithsonian
, vol. 13, no. 1 (April 1982), 38–42; Earl R. Anderson, “Footnotes More Pedestrian Than Sublime: A Historical Background for the Foot-Races in
Evelina
and
Humphrey Clinker
,”
Eighteenth-Century Studies
, vol. 14, no. 1 (Autumn 1980), 56–68; Phyllis Cunnington,
Costume of Household Servants:
From the Middle Ages to 1900
(London: Adam and Charles Black, 1974), 100–103.

11.
Anne D. Wallace,
Walking, Literature, and English Culture: The Origins and Uses of Peripatetic in the Nineteenth Century
(Oxford: Clarendon Press, 1993), 17–66; George Moss, “The Long Distance Runners of Ante-Bellum America,”
Journal of Popular Culture
, vol. 8, no. 2 (Fall 1974), 370–82; Walter Bernstein and Milton
Meltzer, “A Walking Fever Has Set In,”
Virginia Quarterly Review
, vol. 56, no. 4 (Autumn 1980), 698–731; Don Watson, “Popular Athletics on Victorian Tyneside,”
International Journal of the History of Sport
, vol. 11, no. 3 (December 1994), 485–94.

12.
Bernstein and Meltzer, “Walking Fever,” 700–701; Edward Lamb, “‘Weston the Walker’ Made Pedestrianism a Way of Life,”
Smithsonian
, vol. 16, no.
4 (July 1979), 89; Moss, “Long Distance Runners,” 380; Cavanagh,
Running Shoe Book
, 20–23.

13.
Bernstein and Meltzer, “Walking Fever,” 701; Sue Moore, “Fresh Air on a High-Tech Shoestring,”
The Times
(London), March 6, 1991; Anne Caborn, “Reebok Head’s Finest Feat,”
Sunday Telegraph
(London), December 17, 1989;
1897 Sears Roebuck Catalog
(New York: Chelsea House, 1968), 35, 203, 206, 190–201;
Cavanagh,
Running Shoe Book
, 16–19.

14.
Hal Higdon,
A Century of Running: Celebrating the 100th Anniversary of the Boston Athletic Association Marathon
(Emmaus, Pa.: Rodale Press, 1995), 71, 73; Cavanagh,
Running Shoe Book
, 27–33.

15.
Ralph F. Wolf,
India Rubber Man: The Story of Charles Goodyear
(Caldwell, Idaho: The Caxton Printers, 1939), 40–54; Samuel Americus Walker,
Sneakers
(New York:
Workman, 1978), 15, 18–20.

16.
George R. Vila,
The Story of Uniroyal: 75 Years of Progress
(New York: The Newcomen Society, 1968), 8–11; John R. Stilgoe,
Alongshore
(New Haven: Yale University Press, 1994), 73–76; Melanie Rickey, “Flash of Genius,”
The Independent
(London), June 29, 1996.

17.
Rochelle Chadakoff, “Sneaking in Style,”
Rocky Mountain News
, May 19, 1994; Laurie Lawlor,
Where Will
This Shoe Take You?
(New York: Walker, 1996), 105; Cavanagh,
Running Shoe Book
, 17; Cheskin,
Athletic Footwear
, 6–7.

18.
“Tools of the Track,”
To r onto Star
, September 3, 1996; Fila,
Story of Uniroyal
, 10–12; Cheskin,
Athletic Footwear
, 7–12; Walker,
Sneakers
, 21, 26, 50–51.

19.
Cheskin,
Athletic Footwear
, 12–14, 60–61; Cavanagh,
Running Shoe Book
, 33; Phillip Nutt, telephone interview, November
15, 1999.

20.
William Ecenbarger, “A Trend Afoot,”
Chicago Tribune Sunday Magazine
, April 18, 1993; Walker,
Sneakers
, 78–79, 84; Tom Vanderbilt,
The Sneaker Book: Anatomy of an Industry and an Icon
(New York: New Press, 1998),13–14; Richard Cohen, “Sneakers as Metaphor,”
Washington Post Magazine
, September 8, 1991.

21.
Strasser and Becklund,
Swoosh
, 72–77; Kathleen Low, “In the Days When Sports
Shoes Weren’t Fashionable,”
Footwear News
, vol. 41 (October 6, 1985), 42ff.

22.
Cavanagh,
Running Shoe Book
, 33–46; Ronald P. Dore,
Shinohata: A Portrait of a Japanese Village
(New York: Pantheon Books, 1978), 77–78; Strasser and Becklund,
Swoosh
, 77.

23.
Walker,
Sneakers
, 29; Peter Levine,
A. G. Spalding and the Rise of Baseball: The Promise of American Sport
(New York: Oxford University Press,
1985), 88; Cheskin,
Athletic Footwear
, 55–57; Phillip Nutt, telephone interview, November 15, 1999.

24.
Strasser and Becklund,
Swoosh
, 97; Vanderbilt,
Sneaker Book
, 29–30; Kenny Moore, “An Outrageous Stand,”
Sports Illustrated
, vol. 75, no. 6 (August 5, 1991), 60ff.; Kenny Moore, “The Eye of the Storm,”
Sports Illustrated
, vol. 75, no. 7 (August 12, 1991), 60 ff.; Steele,
Shoes
, 172, 183; William
Ecenbarger, “A Trend Afoot,” 27ff.

25.
Cheskin,
Athletic Footwear
, 129.

26.
Strasser and Becklund,
Swoosh
, 350–51, 357–59.

27.
Vanderbilt,
Sneaker Book
, 84, 111.

28.
Phillip Nutt, telephone interview, November 15, 1999; Ed Nardoza, “A Once Proud Industry Is Now Down to Its Last Three,”
Footwear News
, vol. 39 (April 25, 1983), S1.

29.
Vanderbilt,
Sneaker Book
, 57–60; Melissa Dallal, “Tinker
Hatfield/Nike,”
I.D
., vol. 44, no. 1 (January—February 1997), 63; “Turbo-Charged Shoes,”
SGB UK
, May 20, 1999, 50; Patricia Leigh Brown, “Once-Lowly Sneaker Is Pedestrian No More,”
New York Times
, May 28, 1992; Tinker Hatfield, “Inspired Design: How Nike Puts Emotion in Its Shoes,”
Harvard Business Review
, July—August 1992, 93; Michele Golden, “The Design Guy: It’s Definitely the Shoes,”
SportsTech
, vol. 1, no. 1 (October
1997), 40–44; Strasser and Becklund,
Swoosh
, 355–56; Peta Bee, “Planet Trainer,”
The Times
(London), February 28, 1999.