Read Oxfordshire Folktales Online
Authors: Kevan Manwaring
The map
here
(with the exception of the coat of arms) and all line drawing illustrations are by the author (© 2012).
As I was going to Banbury
Ri-fol la-ti-tee O
As I was going to Banbury
I saw a fine codling apple tree
With a ri-fol la-ti-tee O
And when the codlings began to fall
Ri-fol la-ti-tee O
And when the codlings began to fall
I found five hundred men in all.
With a ri-fol la-ti-tee O.
And one of the men I saw was dead,
Ri-fol la-ti-tee O
And one of the men I saw was dead
So I sent for a hatchet to open his head.
With a ri-fol la-ti-tee O.
And in his head I found a spring,
Ri-fol la-ti-tee O
And in his head I found a spring
And seven young salmon a-learning to sing
With a ri-fol la-ti-tee O.
And one of the salmon as big as I,
Ri-fol la-ti-tee O
And one of the salmon as big as I
Now do you not think I am telling a lie?
With a ri-fol la-ti-tee O.
And one of the salmon as big as an elf,
Ri-fol la-ti-tee O
And one of the salmon as big as an elf –
If you want any more you must sing it yourself
With a ri-fol la-ti-tee O
Ride a cock horse to Banbury Cross,
To see a Fyne lady ride on a white horse.
With rings on her fingers and bells on her toes,
She shall have music wherever she goes.
This place has always been a crossing way, where things … pass over. Nowadays it is little more than a glorified roundabout, with a steady stream of traffic circling it, belching exhaust fumes. An elegant statue watches on, but few stop and stare – the busy people are always rushing somewhere. Yet it has always been thus – for centuries folk have passed this way, from west to south bringing salt along the Salt Way, from Droitwich to London, the Welsh Marches to Romney Marsh, and Banbury Lane, running from Hamtun along the Fosse Way to Stow-on-the-Wold; men trading goods or blows. Many armies have marched this way – Iron Age warriors; Roman centurions; Saxons, settling by the Cherwell; a band of Danes once, coming from Hamtun, ravaged the county, until they settled and learnt the value of peace. Banbury Castle, a Royalist stronghold, was besieged in the Civil War and finally pulled down, 500 years since its construction. And the three crosses which the town once had – High Cross, where important proclamations were made; the Bread Cross, where the bakers and butchers sold their wares, and bread was doled out to the poor on Good Friday; and the White Cross. The town worthies decided the populace had ‘far gone into Puritanism’ and had the High Cross pulled down, to curtail the Catholic pilgrims who came to the town. Just after dawn on the 26th of July 1600, two masons began demolishing the High Cross, with a crowd of at least 100 men looking on. When the spire fell to the ground Henry Shewell cried out jubilantly, ‘God be thanked, their god Dagon is fallen down to the ground!’ The Bread Cross and the White Cross were destroyed in the same year.
Banbury – famous for ‘cheese, cakes and zeal’, so the saying goes, and you can see why.
And yet, despite their efforts, the true crossing place remained – silent and unseen to all but those with subtle eyes. Only on a moonlit night was it possible to catch a glimpse of the fine lady. In the deadness of the dark, listen sharp and you might hear her music. But stop your ears with wax, lest you want the rings on her fingers and bells on her toes to lead you away to the land of Fey – never to be seen again by your loved ones. They say her beauty is spellbinding. Once you see her, you are enchanted by her comeliness. Every year, the townsfolk process through the town with their hobby horses to keep on her good side. She likes to be honoured; some would say placated.
Some say it was Queen Bess herself who was the ‘fine lady’, Spencer’s Faerie Queene. She had travelled to Banbury to see a cross being erected. Banbury was situated at the top of a steep hill and in order to help carriages up the steep incline a white cock horse, a large stallion, was made available by the town’s council to help with this task. When the Queen’s carriage attempted to go up the hill a wheel broke and the Queen chose to mount the cock horse and ride to the Banbury cross. The people of the town had decorated the cock horse with ribbons and bells and provided minstrels to accompany her so ‘she shall have music wherever she goes’.
And there are other theories, but all let the truth slip through their hands – like Rhiannon, who rode a white horse and would not let herself be caught until she chose; like her older sister, Epona, Celtic horse goddess; like the Queen of Elfland herself. And Tam Lin would agree – that you would not want to meet her at the witching hour. He crossed over, but Janet won him back:
Just at the mirk and midnight hour
The fairy folk will ride,
And they that would their true-love win,
At Miles Cross they must bide.
So, take care if you pass this Crossing Place at an in-between time. Pay your respects to the fine lady, and go quickly on your way. If you do not pay your respects, she will exact her tithe at a terrible cost – as a good doctor, William Oldys, once found out…
Doctor Oldys was a vicar at New College. During the Civil War, even men of the cloth were not immune to the madness which swept the land. All were forced to make a hard choice – one that split families apart. Oldys was loyal to the King, and so found himself the natural enemy of Cromwell and his rebel army. As a consequence, it was no longer safe for him and his family to stay at home at his fine vicarage in Adderbury, next to one of the finest spires in the county. Oldys decided it was prudent to make for Banbury, which was a garrison for the King at that time. The preparations were made – Oldys would go first and secure dwellings for them; then he would return to rendezvous with his wife and son (whom he intended to get to the safety of the university) on the road at an appointed day and hour.
Word of this plan was somehow leaked to the enemy – by a nefarious turncoat neighbour. And thus, some Parliamentarian soldiers lay in wait for the good doctor as he made his way to meet his wife and child.
Yet Oldys had made plans for such an eventuality – for difficult times make for cautious hearts. His wife and son would ride out to the spot first, for any soldiers would not attack them. If they met troops, they were to give him a signal – if the men be of the King’s party his good wife would hold up her gloved hand and he would approach; if not, she must pass on without further sign.
And so the good doctor found himself anxiously waiting in the green shadows as he watched his wife and son approach the spot. As he feared, a cavalry appeared in the clearing, breastplates and spears glinting in the light through the trees.
As the doctor’s wife approached the men, trying not to show her terror, she saw they were Roundheads and rode straight on, with only the slightest of polite acknowledgements to them. Their hard eyes scrutinised her from behind their iron veils.
The doctor, duly noting that no hand was raised, made a hasty retreat back to Banbury. The enemy noticed his sudden departure and gave chase with alacrity. On their chargers they rapidly gained ground. To delay them, the doctor scattered his purse along the trail – but there was one amongst them who desired blood more than gold and would not tarry for the mud-tainted coin. He had known the good doctor and had received his charity, but this did not soften his heart. Cromwell had replaced Christ in his heart.
As the good doctor passed his former abode on the way to Banbury, his horse stopped, thinking it was home. With mounting desperation, Oldys could not get it to move forward by any persuasion. This gave the enemy time to overtake him and, apprehending him, they did not hesitate to exact their fateful toll – one pulled a pistol and shot the good doctor dead. It was noted afterwards, by neighbours of the parish, that the one who had warned the troops fell down dead on the very spot the doctor was slain.
At New College, a tablet in memory of Doctor William Oldys was raised, recording how he was murdered by the Rebels.
* * *
Visit Banbury today and you’ll see a statue of the fine lady by the Cross. A blood-thirsty horse goddess, the ultimate nightmare; or an elfin Queen, comely and fair? She is all these things and more, immortal and ever changing. Perhaps she is sufficiently honoured, and travellers who pass that way may feel safe – or perhaps not!
The presence of this Fine Lady is a gift to any storyteller. Although there is a possibility that she is none other than one of the Oxfordshire Fiennes (whose famous descendants include an explorer father and two actor sons) and her cock horse is nothing more than the strong stallion used to pull her carriage up the hill into town, I have used my artistic license to interpret her as the Queen of Elfland – the ‘rings on her fingers and bells on her toes’ are akin to the bridle of the one who graced Thomas the Rhymer with her presence (decorated with ‘fifty silver bells and nine…’). Enchanting music was often heard before the appearance of the Fey, and any who heard it was doomed to go there, or fade away in this world. Its pull is irresistible, as W.B. Yeats captured so immortally in his classic poem
The Stolen Child:
‘Come away, O human child, to the waters and the wild…’
Fairyland might seem far away from Banbury, but since this was the first town outside of Northampton (my old home county) I would come across as I ventured ‘into the west’, I think of it as a ‘Lud-in-the-Mist’ type place (the town in Hope Mirrlees’ 1926 novel which borders Faerie), being the gateway into the Cotswolds and beyond to the ‘weird’ West Country and wilder Wales. Here, I have melded two strands of folklore together – one about the Queen of Elfland and crossroads (as featured in the Scottish ballad ‘Tam Lin’); and the other a local folk tale about William Oldys. In this coupling of the mythic and the mundane something magical occurs. One needs to be anchored to the other – to stop the former flying away into the ether and the latter from being stuck in the mud of reality. Visit Banbury on the day of the Hobby Horse Fair in early July, when unusual beasts from all over England gather for a procession through town, culminating in the People's Park, and you will see this occurring before your eye. For a while, reality bends.