Saveur: The New Comfort Food (34 page)

BOOK: Saveur: The New Comfort Food
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Drinks that Beat the Heat

We’ve always loved the spicy, stick-to-your-ribs cuisine of Texas, but it wasn’t until we devoted an entire issue to Texan foodways in the summer of 2009 that we came to understand the Lone Star State’s equally impressive way with drinks. There’s the elegant yet potent sangria (our favorite is a midcentury recipe from the ladies at the Junior League of Houston), the refreshing cucumber cooler (a signature drink at the bar of the Gage Hotel, in Marathon, Texas), and the still-popular Tex-Mex originals like the garnet-colored Chico (a cocktail born in cantinas along the Texas–Mexico border during World War II). Revitalizing savory cocktails like the tart-spicy beer-based Michelada (all the rage in Austin) and the longhorn bull shot (a nod to the state’s cattle industry) will knock the dust off your spurs. And, of course, there are the best margaritas on earth. A few of our favorites are pictured.

Six Regional Bloody Marys
Original Bloody Mary

This classic version has been the signature cocktail at the King Cole Bar at New York City’s St. Regis Hotel since 1934.

1 oz. vodka

2 oz. tomato juice

2 tsp. fresh lemon juice Worcestershire, to taste Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste Cayenne pepper, to taste Lemon wedge, for garnish

Makes 1 cocktail

Combine ingredients in a mixing glass, stir, and pour into an ice-filled Collins glass. Garnish with lemon.

Michelada Bloody Mary

S
AVEUR
contributing editor Rick Bayless suggested this variation, inspired by the Mexican beer cocktail michelada (see
Six Texan Cocktails
).

1 cup tomato juice

1 oz. fresh orange juice

1 oz. fresh grapefruit juice

1 oz. fresh lime juice, plus 1 lime wedge

½ oz. pomegranate juice (optional) Kosher salt, for garnish

4 oz. tequila blanco

1 12-oz. bottle Mexican beer Tabasco, to taste Worcestershire, to taste

4 pickled jalapeños, for garnish

Makes 4 cocktails

Combine juices in a pitcher; set aside. Spread salt on a plate. Rub the rim of 4 beer mugs with a lime wedge. Dip rims of mugs into salt. Fill mugs with ice and divide juice mixture between mugs. Add 1 oz. tequila and 3 oz. beer to each. Season with Tabasco and Worcestershire, stir, and add a jalapeño to each glass.

Cajun Bloody Mary

Pickled okra, beef broth, and a spoonful of tangy mustard make this substantial bloody mary, based on one served at the New Orleans restaurant Cochon, practically a course in itself.

4 oz. tomato juice

1 oz. beef broth

1 tsp. whole-grain mustard

1 tsp. fresh lemon juice

1 tsp. fresh lime juice

1 tsp. red wine vinegar

1
/
8
tsp. garlic powder Tabasco, to taste Pickled okra juice, to taste Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1½ oz. vodka Pickled okra, pickled green beans, and caper berries, for garnish

Makes 1 cocktail

In a mixing glass, combine the tomato juice, broth, mustard, lemon juice, lime juice, vinegar, and garlic powder and season with Tabasco, okra juice, and black pepper; refrigerate mixture until chilled. To serve, fill a rocks glass with ice cubes, pour in vodka, and stir in tomato juice mixture. Garnish with okra, beans, and caper berries.

Old Bay Bloody Mary

Old Bay seasoning gives this drink, served at the Old Ebbitt Grill in Washington, D.C., a savory kick that works well with a garnish of boiled shrimp.

2 tbsp. Old Bay seasoning

1 lime wedge

1½ oz. vodka, preferably pepper flavored

1 oz. beef broth

3 oz. tomato juice

1¼ oz. fresh lemon juice

¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper

1 large tail-on shrimp, peeled, boiled, and chilled

Makes 1 cocktail

Sprinkle Old Bay on a plate. Rub the rim of a small glass with the lime wedge and dip rim in Old Bay to coat. Add cracked ice to glass; set aside. In a mixing glass, combine vodka, beef broth, tomato juice, lemon juice, and black pepper; stir to combine. Pour into reserved glass; garnish with shrimp.

Heirloom Tomato Bloody Mary

At the Union Square Cafe in New York City, bartenders make this bloody mary using heirloom tomatoes from the nearby farmers’ market.

2 large ripe heirloom tomatoes

2 oz. vodka

1 oz. fresh lime juice

1 tsp. freshly grated horseradish Tabasco, to taste Sea salt and coarsely ground black pepper, to taste Cherry or grape tomatoes, for garnish

Makes 1 cocktail

Push tomatoes through a potato ricer or a medium sieve into a small bowl; discard solids. Refrigerate juice until chilled. Stir in vodka, lime juice, horseradish, and Tabasco and season with salt and pepper. Fill a highball glass with ice and add tomato juice mixture. Garnish with a wooden skewer threaded with tomatoes.

Boston Bloody Mary

The raw oysters in this bloody mary, based on one at the Boston restaurant Eastern Standard, impart a hint of brine.

4 oz. tomato juice

2 tsp. fresh lemon juice

1
/
8
tsp. celery salt Prepared horseradish, to taste Worcestershire, to taste Tabasco, to taste Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

2 oz. vodka

2 freshly shucked oysters with their juice

2 green olives, for garnish Celery stalk, for garnish

Makes 1 cocktail

In a mixing glass, combine tomato juice, lemon juice, and celery salt and season with horseradish, Worcestershire, Tabasco, salt, and pepper; chill. Fill an old-fashioned glass with ice. Pour in the chilled tomato juice mixture and the vodka. Add oysters and their juice; stir. Garnish with olives and celery.

Hail Mary

Some say the classic eye-opener known as the bloody mary was created by a bartender in Paris in 1921; others claim that same barkeep invented it at the St. Regis Hotel in Manhattan. And then there are those who believe a comedian who promoted the Smirnoff vodka company in the 1950s deserves the credit. No matter who dreamed up the combination of tomato and lemon juices, vodka, Worcestershire sauce, and pepper, the bloody mary has since become America’s favorite cocktail. The zesty concoction belongs to a group of drinks called snappers, which are defined by a savory base (like tomato juice) and the condiments that give them their character. The real beauty of a bloody mary—aside from the taste—is its versatility. There are variations all over America that speak to regional tastes and creative whims. Add a freshly shucked East Coast oyster, and the drink tastes of New England. Throw in some pickled okra, and it takes on a Southern accent. On these pages: a tried-and-true recipe for a classic bloody mary, and a few of our favorite riffs on the drink.

Index
A

Albóndigas en Salsa

Arista di Maiale

Artichokes

Italian-Style Stuffed Artichokes

types of

Asparagus and Mushrooms, Matzo Brei with

Avocados

Guacamole

marketing strategies and

B

Bacon and Poached Eggs, Frisée Salad with

Baked Ziti with Sausage

Banana Malted Milk Shake, Black-and-White

Beans

Green Bean Casserole

Hummus with Tahini

Seven-Hour Leg of Lamb

Thai-Style Green Beans with Chile and Basil

Tuscan-Style Kale Soup

Beef

Baked Ziti with Sausage

Burgundy-Style Beef Stew

Chicken Fried Steak

Filets Mignons with Mushroom Sauce

Italian-Style Meatballs with Tomato Ragù

Marinated Flank Steak

Pasta with Ragù

Patty Melt

Sid’s Fried Onion Burgers

Slow-Smoked Brisket

Spicy Beef Empanadas

steaks, judging doneness

Tapas-Style Meatballs

USDA grades of

Woody DeSilva’s Championship Chili

Bigos

Biscuits, Chive and Cheddar

Black-and-White Banana Malted Milk Shake

Bloody Mary cocktails

Boeuf à la Bourguignonne

Boh Biah Tote

Bok Choy and Mushrooms, Stir-Fried

Book Club Sangria

Boone Tavern’s Spoonbread

Boston Bloody Mary

Breads

Chive and Cheddar Biscuits

Sopaipillas

Broiled Salmon Steaks with Tomatoes, Onions, and Tarragon

Brown Butter Pasta

Brownies, Katharine Hepburn’s

Bucatini all’Amatriciana

Bucatini with Spicy Tomato Sauce

Burgers

customizing, ideas for

Patty Melt

Sid’s Fried Onion Burgers

Burgundy-Style Beef Stew

Butter

brown, cooking with

Brown Butter Pasta

Butter Risotto

regional styles of

Buttermilk Flapjacks

Butterscotch Sauce, Ice Cream with

C

Cajun Bloody Mary

Cakes

Dulce de Leche Cake

German Chocolate Cake

Lindy’s Cheesecake

Red Velvet Cake

Caramel-Chocolate Tart

Caramel Coconut Flan

Carciofi Stufati

Cardamom, green, cooking with

Carrots, how to julienne

Catfish

Deep-Fried Southern Catfish

notes about

Cheese. See also Cream cheese

Baked Ziti with Sausage

Chiles Rellenos

Chive and Cheddar Biscuits

Compté, about

Fennel Baked in Cream

Fettuccine Alfredo

French Onion Soup

Italian-Style Stuffed Artichokes

Macaroni and Cheese with Ham

Orecchiette with Rapini and Goat Cheese

Patty Melt

Peppers Stuffed with Feta

Potatoes Gratin

Red-Chile Chicken Enchiladas

Ricotta and Roasted Pepper Frittata

The Ultimate Grilled Cheese Sandwich

Vegetarian Lasagne

Wild-Greens Pie

Cheesecake, Lindy’s

Chicken

Chicken Paprikash with Dumplings

Chicken Tikka Masala

Indonesian Chicken Curry

Lemony Roast Chicken

Matzo Ball Soup

Northern Fried Chicken

Red-Chile Chicken Enchiladas

Roasted Herbed Chicken and Vegetables

Sweet-and-Spicy Korean Fried Chicken

whole, carving

Chicken Fried Steak

Chico

Chile peppers

Chiles Rellenos

Grilled Lobster with Cilantro-Chile Butter

Peppers Stuffed with Feta

Pineapple-Chipotle-Glazed Ham

Red-Chile Chicken Enchiladas

Thai-Style Green Beans with Chile and Basil

Chili, Woody DeSilva’s

Championship

Chili powder, history of

Chive and Cheddar

Biscuits

Chocolate

Black-and-White Banana Malted Milk Shake

Chocolate-Caramel Tart

German Chocolate Cake

Katharine Hepburn’s Brownies

Chowder, Creamy Corn

Cilantro-Chile Butter, Grilled Lobster with

Clams

Stuffies

varieties of

Classic Eggs Benedict

Coconut & coconut milk

Caramel Coconut Flan

German Chocolate Cake

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