Saveur: The New Comfort Food (36 page)

BOOK: Saveur: The New Comfort Food
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Tom Yum Goong

Tortillas

Huevos Rancheros

Red-Chile Chicken Enchiladas

Tua Kaek Pad Prik Pao

Tuscan-Style Kale Soup

U

The Ultimate Grilled Cheese Sandwich

V

Vegetables. See also specific

vegetables

Roasted Herbed Chicken and Vegetables

Vegetarian Lasagne

Veracruz-Style Red Snapper

W

Wild-Greens Pie

Wine

Book Club Sangria

Spiced Wine

Woody DeSilva’s Championship Chili

Y

Yangnyeom Dak

Z

Zucchini Fritters

Table of Equivalents

The exact equivalents in the following tables have been rounded for convenience.

Liquid and Dry Measurements
U.S.
METRIC
¼ teaspoon
1.25 milliliters
½ teaspoon
2.5 milliliters
1 teaspoon
5 milliliters
1 tablespoon (3 teaspoons)
15 milliliters
1 fluid ounce
30 milliliters
¼ cup
65 milliliters
1
/
3
cup
80 milliliters
cup
235 milliliters
1 pint (2 cups)
480 milliliters
1 quart (4 cups, 32 fluid ounces)
950 milliliters
1 gallon (4 quarts)
3.8 liters
1 ounce (by weight)
28 grams
1 pound
454 grams
2.2 pounds
1 kilogram
Length Measures
U.S.
METRIC
1
/
8
inch
3 millimeters
¼ inch
6 millimeters
½ inch
12 millimeters
1 inch
2.5 centimeters
Oven Temperatures
FAHRENHEIT
CELSIUS
GAS
250°
120°
½
275°
140°
1
300°
150°
2
325°
160°
3
350°
180°
4
375°
190°
5
400°
200°
6
425°
220°
7
450°
230°
8
475°
240°
9
500°
260°
10
Acknowledgments

Though I’m listed as the editor of this book, that’s only partly true. The fact is I was just one of many collaborators who joined in the journey that led to its making. Foremost among those collaborators are Todd Coleman, executive food editor (and star photographer) at saveur, whose expertise and intelligence grace every page; executive editor Dana Bowen, whose second-to-none editorial instincts set the tone for the entire book; David Weaver, our art director (and book designer), who proved as always to be a model not only of talent but of endless level-headedness; deputy editor, Beth Kracklauer, who patiently wrote (and then re-wrote, many times) the recipe headnotes; managing editors Greg Ferro and Georgia Freedman, who pushed us all to the finish line with (fabulously) cheap jokes, endless optimism, and the occasional jolt-of-fear e-mail; Hunter Lewis, saveur’s kitchen director, who along with Ben Mims, assistant kitchen director, diligently tested, multiple times, all the recipes that appear in the book; senior editors Betsy Andrews and Gabriella Gershenson, whose eleventh-hour comments and guidance were invaluable; our scary-smart copy chief Dorothy Irwin and her second-in-command, Kathryn Kuchenbrod; associate editor, Karen Shimizu, assistant editor, Marne Setton, and former saveur deputy editor David McAninch, all of whom provided crucial editorial assistance along the way; and Larry Nighswander, saveur’s photo director, who along with Paul Love, Mary Rose Lorenzana, Lyndsey Atkinson, and Katherine Pease culled and gathered the images that appear herein. Additionally, I’m indebted to our production manager, Courtney Janka, and prepress guru, Don Hill and his indefatigable team at Bonnier’s headquarters in Winter Park, Florida. My hat goes off to every one of these people not only for their selfless dedication but for their wisdom. Working with them all is a daily source of inspiration.

I’m grateful to the saveur contributors whose writing appears in these pages, including Jeff Berry, Jeffrey Charles, Jay Cheshes, Lillian Chou, Lizzie Collingham, Wayne Curtis, Cathy Danh, Cara de Silva, Sarah DiGregorio, Beth Elon, Evan Kleiman, Aglaia Kremezi, George Motz, Joan Nathan, Alia Yunis, and Robb Walsh. I also want to give a special shout out to our regular stable of photographers who created the images in this book, including André Baranowski, Virginie Blachere, David Brabyn, Bruce Crippen, Penny De Los Santos, Ben Fink, Natalie Fobes, David Hagerman, Michael Kraus, Ariana Lindquist, Landon Nordeman, and Barbara Ries. The brilliant work they do is its true heart and soul.

I also want to thank the ever-cheery and intensely skilled folks at Weldon Owen in San Francisco, whose vision it was to create this book, including Terry Newell, Hannah Rahill, Kim Laidlaw, Amy Kaneko, and Kara Church. Equally crucial to its existence is the terrific team at Chronicle Books, especially Bill LeBlond. Finally, I owe special thanks to Merri Lee Kingsly, publisher of saveur (and one of its fiercest advocates); Terry Snow, CEO of Bonnier Corporation, our parent company; and Jonas Bonnier, chairman of the corporation. You keep us on our toes, you push us toward excellence.

—James Oseland, Editor-in-Chief

Photography Credits

André Baranowski

Diners enjoy peel-andeat boiled shrimp from the Gulf of Mexico.

Ultimate Grilled Cheese Sandwich

Eugenia Bone

Frisée Salad with Poached Eggs and Bacon

Golden Potato Latkes

Creamy Corn Chowder

Matzo Ball Soup

Woody DeSilva’s Championship Chili

Smoked Pork and Sauerkraut Stew

Bobak’s Baby Dills

Ricotta and Roasted Pepper Frittata

Classic Eggs Benedict

Fettuccine Alfredo

Orecchiette with Rapini and Goat Cheese

Vegetarian Lasagne

Homemade Tagliatelle

Macaroni and Cheese with Ham

Figaretti’s “Godfather II” Linguine

New Orleans-Style BBQ Shrimp

Stuffies

Broiled Salmon Steaks with Tomatoes, Onions, and Tarragon

Salmon

Deep-Fried Southern Catfish

Lemony Roast Chicken

Chicken Tikka Masala

Indonesian Chicken Curry

Sweet-and-Spicy Korean Fried Chicken

Roasted Herbed Chicken and Vegetables

Carving a Chicken

Thai Red Curry with Roasted Duck

Lamb Chops with Salsa Verde

Karl Zartler

Filets Mignons with Mushroom Sauce

Patty Melt

Rayanne Gentry

Slow-Smoked Brisket

Kimchi Pancakes

green Bean Casserole

Butter Risotto

Legumes

Randy Evans’s Southern Peas

Chive and Cheddar Biscuits

Buttermilk Flapjacks

Huckleberry Crisps

Butter

Snickerdoodles

Dulce de Leche Cake

Chocolate-Caramel Tart

Ice Cream with Butterscotch Sauce

Lindy’s Cheesecake

German Chocolate Cake

Black-and-White Banana Malted Milk Shake

Spiced Wine

Virginie Blachere

Artichokes

David Brabyn

A student at Le Ferrandi culinary school in Paris tends to a simmering pot of veal stock under the watchful eye of his professor.

Todd Coleman

A variety of mezedes, or small plates, at Tsinari, an ouzeri in the city of Thessaloniki, in northern Greece.

Spring Rolls with Chile–Garlic Sauce

Spring roll wrapping

Tapas-Style Meatballs

Guacamole

Spicy Beef Empanadas

Wild-Greens Pie

Mushroom and Herb Crostini

Burgundy-Style Beef Stew

German Split Pea Soup

French Onion Soup

Thai Hot and Sour Shrimp Soup

Tuscan-Style Kale Soup

Matzo Brei with Mushrooms and Asparagus

Baked Ziti with Sausage

Brown Butter Pasta

Nice Slices

Everyday Fried Noodles

Veracruz-Style Red Snapper

Red-Chile Chicken Enchiladas

Marinated Flank Steak

Italian-Style Meatballs with Tomato Ragù

Pineapple-Chipotle-Glazed Ham

Roast Pork Loin

Potatoes Gratin

Potatoes

Chiles Rellenos

Kimchi Pancakes

Thai-Style Green Beans with Chile and Basil

Zucchini Fritters

Small wonders

Peppers Stuffed with Feta

Waitress from Aristotelous

Pan Suefen, Beijing

Sun Guoying, a home cook in Mutianyu, a village near Beijing, China, stir-fries a dish of eggs and scallions in her kitchen.

Fennel

Fennel Baked in Cream

Sopaipllas

Key Lime Pie

Limes

Katharine Hepburn’s Brownies

Red Velvet Cake

Lindy’s

Caramel Coconut Flan

Spiced Tea

Cardamom pods

Bruce Crippen

A volunteer plates spaghetti with homemade tomato sauce at the Sacred Heart Church in Cincinnati, Ohio. The church has been hosting its biannual Italian Spaghetti and Ravioli Dinner since 1910.

Penny De Los Santos

Hair and makeup artists, working at a fashion show at the Millennium Biltmore Hotel in Los Angeles, break for a lunch of burgers.

Shoppers at the Mercato Orientale, a busy market in the heart of Genoa, Italy.

carmen Barrio Perez

Pita bread

Hummus with Tahini

Jerusalem’s Mahane Yehuda market

Eggs Poached in Spicy Tomato Sauce

Huevos Rancheros

Bucatini with Spicy Tomato Sauce

Secret ingredient

Grilled Lobster with Cilantro–Chile Butter

Three generations of the Enriquez family—esteemed for their cooking—prepare dinner at their home in El Paso, Texas.

Lambs

Sora Lella (left)

Sid’s Diner

Sid’s Fried Onion Burgers

Lentils

Creamy Spiced Indian Lentils

Gabriela Bojalil

A group of friends drink masala chai at a dhaba, or truck stop, in Delhi, India.

Ben Fink

A Christmas eve dinner in the Berlin home of Werner Blanck

David Hagerman

A market scene in Bangkok, where vendors sell produce as well as freshly prepared foods.

Michael Kraus

Texas cake pan

Pineapple-Chipotle-Glazed Ham

Sweet and Sour Pork Chops

Building the Perfect Burger

Burger Ingredients

Texan Cocktails

Texan Cocktails

Bloody Marys

Bloody Marys

Ariana Lindquist

Family Style

Michael Buhen

Jen Munkvold

Cow

Larry Nighswander

A line cook at the Waffle House in East Point, Georgia.

Landon Nordeman

Camille Lebro, Paris

Buggiano, Italy

Buggiano (Italy) outdoor summer feast

Herbed Tomato Tart

Cape Breton, Nova Scotia

A cook prepares tagliatelle egg noodles at La Vecchia Scuola Bolognese, a cooking school in Bologna, Italy.

Italy’s Other Ragù

Pasta with Ragù

Let the good times roll

Cod Cakes with Chowchow

Chef Sara Jenkins, with her son at her side, serves roasted chicken in her New York City home.

The Other KFC

Owner Peter Servedio assists customers at Peter’s Meat Market, a butcher shop on Arthur Avenue in the Bronx, New York.

Parisian home cooking

Dietmar Muthenthaler, the head chef of Demel, the legendary pastry shop in Vienna, Austria.

Lindsay Debach

Franklin Fountain, Philadelphia

Charred oak barrels

Hot Buttered Rum

Mastering Muddling

Regent”s Punch

James Oseland

Artichokes

Wai Smitaman, Kiew Krislas, Thailand

James Oseland

Figaretti’s “Godfather II” Linguine

Special Sauce

Chicken Paprikash with Dumplings

Lemongrass

Fried chicken at Blue Ribbon

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