Sugar Cube (16 page)

• TO MAKE THE PIE CRUST:
  In the bowl of a food processor, combine the flour and salt and pulse a few times. Add the butter and pulse until pea-sized pieces are formed. Sprinkle the ice water and cream over the mixture and pulse several times until the dough starts to come together. (To check, squeeze some of the dough between your thumb and index finger. It should hold together. Be careful not to overmix, or you will disrupt the delicate layers of butter and flour.) Turn the dough out onto a clean, dry work surface and gather it into a ball. Flatten the ball into a disk, wrap in plastic, and chill for at least 30 minutes.
  
• REMOVE THE DOUGH
  from the refrigerator and let it sit at room temperature for a few minutes to soften a bit. On a lightly floured surface using a lightly floured rolling pin, roll out the dough into a 12-inch round that’s
  ¹
  /
  ₄
  -inch thick. Make sure to turn the dough frequently as you roll to prevent sticking. (Use a bench scraper to dislodge any areas that stick to the work surface and dust the area lightly with flour.) Transfer the pie crust to a 9-by-2-inch pie plate and gently pat into place. Trim the edges, leaving a
  ¹
  /
  ₂
  -inch overhang. Fold under and crimp. Freeze for 30 minutes.
  
• TO MAKE THE FILLING:
  Preheat the oven to 375°F. In a medium mixing bowl, combine the rhubarb, egg yolks, sugar, and salt. Pour the filling into the unbaked pie shell. Place the pie on the center rack of the oven and bake until the rhubarb is tender and cooked through, about 30 minutes. (The filling will look slightly jellied, like marmalade. To ensure the meringue doesn’t begin to deflate, wait until the pie has finished baking before making it.)
  
• TO MAKE THE MERINGUE:
  In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment, beat the egg whites on medium speed until frothy, about 1 minute. With the mixer on medium-high, gradually beat in the granulated sugar, 1 tablespoon at a time. Continue beating until the whites hold medium-stiff peaks and look glossy. Remove the bowl from the mixer and sift the confectioners’ sugar over the whites. Use a spatula to gently fold the sugar into the meringue (the confectioners’ sugar enhances the texture). When the pie is ready, gently spoon the meringue on top and create decorative peaks using the back of the spoon.
  
• PUT THE PIE BACK IN THE OVEN
  and bake until the surface of the meringue is lightly browned, 8 to 12 minutes. Let cool before serving.
  

The ‘70s weren’t a complete faux pas. Here’s another of my mom’s treats that turns quirky ingredients into a fabulous dessert. It was my absolute favorite of my mom’s desserts, and I asked for it every chance I got. The crisp meringue shell just melts in your mouth with toasty notes of pecans, and the coffee mallow filling balances the sweetness of the meringue. A drizzle of some salted caramel and a sprinkling of some grated milk chocolate deepen the flavors.
MAKES 8 SERVINGS

• 2 extra-large egg whites, at room temperature
  
• ¹
  /
  ₄
  teaspoon cream of tartar
  
• ¹
  /
  ₂
  cup sugar
  
• ¹
  /
  ₄
  cup finely chopped toasted pecans (
  see tip
  )
  

• 1
  ¹
  /
  ₂
  cups mini marshmallows
  
• ³
  /
  ₄
  cup strong brewed coffee
  
• 2 teaspoons unsalted butter
  
• ¹
  /
  ₈
  teaspoon sea salt
  
• 1
  ³
  /
  ₄
  cups heavy cream
  
• ¹
  /
  ₂
  teaspoon vanilla extract
  
• 2 tablespoons sugar
  
• ¹
  /
  ₂
  cup
  Salted Caramel Sauce
  , at room temperature
  
• One 3- to 4-ounce bar of high-quality milk chocolate for garnish (my mom always used Lindt Swiss Milk Chocolate)
  

• TO MAKE THE MERINGUE SHELL:
  Preheat the oven to 275°F. Generously butter a 9-by-1
  ¹
  /
  ₂
  -inch glass pie plate.
  
• USING A STAND MIXER
  fitted with a whisk attachment or a hand mixer, beat the egg whites on medium speed until frothy. Add the cream of tartar, increase the speed to medium-high, and slowly beat in the sugar, 1 tablespoon at a time. Increase the speed to high and continue beating until the whites form medium-stiff peaks and look glossy. (The meringue should stay stiff and not droop when you lift the beaters, but if it looks dry or grainy instead of glossy, you’ve gone too far.)
  
• GENTLY FOLD
  the pecans into the whites. Spoon the mixture into the prepared pie plate. Using the back of the spoon, spread the meringue evenly over the bottom and up the walls of the dish.
  
• BAKE UNTIL LIGHT GOLDEN BROWN
  , about 45 minutes. Turn off the heat and leave the meringue shell in the oven with the door closed for another 45 minutes. The shell should have a nice golden color. Remove it from the oven and cool completely on a wire rack before filling.
  
• TO MAKE THE COFFEE MALLOW FILLING:
  Combine the marshmallows, coffee, butter, and salt in a medium saucepan and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the marshmallows have completely melted. Remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature.
  
• MEANWHILE
  , using a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment or a handheld mixer, beat the cream, vanilla, and sugar on high speed until medium-stiff peaks form. Whisk a little of the whipped cream into the cooled coffee goo to lighten it and break up any lumps, then fold this mixture into the bowl of whipped cream until fully incorporated. Scrape the mixture into the cooled meringue shell, spread evenly, and smooth the top. Refrigerate for 1 to 3 hours before serving. (Don’t assemble this pie too far in advance, because the filling will make the bottom of the pie shell slightly soggy. If you need to work ahead, make the shell and the cream up to 1 day ahead, but keep them separate.)
  
• DRIZZLE THE TOP OF THE PIE
  with caramel sauce and use a rasp-style grater to grate the chocolate over the top. Cut into slices and serve. (The edges of the meringue shell might crumble a bit when you cut it. Just dust with cocoa powder to hide the imperfections. Honestly, you’re not going to care what it looks like because once it goes in your mouth you’re going to be very happy.)
  

•
Cream beats into nice fluffy clouds when everything is super-cold, including the bowl. Use a metal bowl and chill it in the refrigerator for 10 to 15 minutes before you begin. Make sure not to overbeat your cream, or it will break down and look curdled (because it basically turned into butter!).

•
Don’t let those yolks go to waste. If you don’t have an immediate use for them, freeze them. When you’ve collected a couple more, you can defrost them overnight in the fridge and use them in something like
Luscious Lemon Curd
.

•
Don’t burn yer nuts! Burnt nuts have a bitter flavor that doesn’t jive well with this or any other dessert. Keep a watchful eye and use your nose. When they’ve taken on a bit of color and smell nutty, they’re done.

Notice how raspberry is the first word in the title? That’s because this tart is all about the fruit. Yes, there’s a rich tart dough made with egg yolk and cream. And yes, it’s slathered with an amazing filling of vanilla browned butter and crème fraîche. But the filling is more of a flavorful base to support and contrast with all the bright fruit. Now, don’t skimp and use extract instead of a vanilla bean when making the filling. You won’t get the same depth of flavor as you do when you brown the seeds and pod along with the butter. You can, however, feel free to change up the fruit. You can use other berries, or even cherries that have been pitted—just cut them in half and toss with about two tablespoons of sugar.
MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS