Authors: Kir Jensen
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Shopping for cornmeal can get pretty confusing. It comes in several grinds (fine, medium, and coarse) as well as several colors (white, yellow, and blue) and names (grits, polenta, etc.). I prefer finely ground cornmeal for pretty much all of my desserts—it has plenty of texture without being intrusive. Choose stone-ground cornmeal if you can, since it contains the germ, which makes it more nutritious. But the germ can also turn rancid, so store the cornmeal in the freezer, where it’ll keep for up to two years.
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Whenever a recipe calls for orange zest, try to use tangerines or tangelos. They’re much brighter in color and their flavor really pops.
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When using strong herbs like rosemary or lavender, use a light hand. You want a pleasing, subtle flavor, not something that overwhelms you like potpourri. You don’t want your cookies to taste like soap.
The French have these awesome little almond teacakes, called
financiers
, that are soft and moist inside and almost candied on the edges. It’s that sweet, light crunch as you bite into them that makes them so good. As I was coming up with my own version I couldn’t help but turn to hazelnuts because they’re such an iconic flavor here in the Pacific Northwest. Plus, they have more flavor than almonds, which means they can stand up to a few more nontraditional additions like cacao nibs and a drizzle of slightly bitter buckwheat honey. These make great ice-cream sandwiches with the
Roasted-Banana Ice Cream
.
MAKES 48 LITTLE CAKES
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You can buy high-quality, Oregon-grown, roasted, salted hazelnuts from producers like Freddy Guys online. These Oregon nuts have the most incredible flavor and are well worth getting!
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Finely grinding nuts in a food processor is tricky because they want to turn into nut butter. The key is to pulse the nuts with flour. The oils are absorbed by the flour, which keeps the nuts from turning into a paste.
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You only need 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (10 ounces) of browned butter, but because water in the butter evaporates during the process, you need to start with a little extra. It takes around 1
1
/
2
cups (3 sticks) of solid butter to yield 10 ounces of browned butter.
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Traditionally
financiers
are made in a canoe-shaped mold, but I prefer using the shallow indentations of a whoopie pie pan, which you can find at cookware stores like Sur La Table. If you don’t want to buy another piece of bakeware, you can substitute a muffin pan (add cupcake liners), but because the cups in a muffin pan are narrower, you’ll end up making narrower Hazelnibbies. Use 3 to 4 tablespoons of batter per indentation. The baking time might vary, so keep an eye on them.
I literally built my cart business on three cupcakes. That’s about all I had on the menu when I opened, but people still came in droves. Why were mine so popular? They were incredibly tender and moist due to using oil instead of butter. Don’t get me wrong. I love my butter, but sometimes it can leave cakes kind of dry. My other secret weapon? I brush my cakes after baking with flavorful simple syrups to help intensify the overall flavor of the cake and moisten it. If there’s one thing I’ve learned from my years as a pastry chef, it’s that people want an excuse to indulge in rich, decadent, crave-worthy desserts.
My friend Kristen Murray, an amazing pastry chef in Portland who has worked in some of the top kitchens in the country, shared this delicious recipe, which has been in her family for generations. Rhubarb happens to be one of my most favorite things, and this pie, enriched with eggs and topped with fluffy meringue, achieves the perfect balance of sweet and tart. “It was my Great-Grandmother Nora’s recipe,” says Kristen. “When my grandmother passed, my mom and I brought home one of her favorite recipe boxes. Inside I found many treasured recipes for foods I loved eating, smelling, and helping to make as a child. This recipe was typed on blond card stock worn with time and use in Nana’s kitchen. The word ‘Mother’ is in the right-hand corner, as Nana always liked to identify the person who gave her the recipe. I miss these beautiful Norwegian women, but making their recipes always makes me feel closer to them.”
MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS