The Amazing World of Rice (4 page)

I
have vivid childhood memories
of blowing on the steaming surface of a bowl of my mother's chicken and rice soup, mesmerized by the swollen rice grains swirling in the hot broth.

Adding small amounts of cooked rice to soup is the perfect way to use leftover cooked rice, especially for light broth-based soups like my mom's chicken soup. It adds creaminess without fat and makes a thin soup more nutritious. But rice can also be just one of many ingredients in hearty main dish soups like the recipes for Peruvian chowder and Shiitake, Beef, and Red Rice Soup.

Mom usually added uncooked rice to her homemade chicken broth. This might seem like the slow way to make a soup heartier, but her technique has two advantages. As the rice cooks and slowly swells it absorbs the fragrant broth, adding flavor while the rice releases its starch, giving the soup body and substance.

Either way, Mom's example taught me to make soups rich in flavor, and in memories.

After a day hiking around Machu Picchu, the famed site of a mysterious Inca settlement, my companions and I enjoyed steaming bowls of a shrimp and rice chowder similar to this one. For strong-flavored shrimp stock, buy large shrimp with the heads on. Often there is coral under the heads that will add a rosy color and extra flavor to the stock. The recipe has several steps, but it can be prepared in stages and then put together just before serving.

Shrimp Stock

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

¼ cup minced shallot

¼ cup minced celery

¼ cup minced carrot

1 ½ pounds shrimp, preferably with heads on, shells (and heads) removed and reserved

1 cup dry white wine

 

¼ cup extra virgin olive oil

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 tablespoon finely chopped seeded jalapeño

2 teaspoons ground cumin

One 14½-ounce can diced tomatoes, with their juices

8 ounces boneless and skinless cod, halibut, sea bass, or other firm white fish fillet, about ½ inch thick

1 teaspoon dried oregano

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

½ cup fine dry bread crumbs

1 medium Yukon Gold potato, peeled and diced (about 1 cup)

¾ cup uncooked Arborio, Baldo, or other medium-grain white rice

½ cup frozen petite green peas, thawed

1 ear corn, husked, ends trimmed, cob cut into ½-inch-thick disks

4 to 6 large eggs (1 per serving)

2 ounces queso fresco, or other lightly salted white cheese such as ricotta salata, or a very mild feta (see Notes), cut into thin slivers

½ cup chopped cilantro

½ cup heavy cream, at room temperature (see Notes)

• 1.
  For the shrimp stock:
  Heat the olive oil in a large wide saucepan. Add the shallot, celery, and carrot. Cook, stirring, over medium-low heat until tender, about 5 minutes. Add the shrimp shells and their heads, if you have them. Cook, stirring, over medium-high heat until the shells turn dark red, about 5 minutes. Add the wine and boil until reduced by half, about 5 minutes. Add 6 cups water; heat
  to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer, uncovered, for about 15 minutes. Let cool to room temperature.
  
• 2.
  Working in batches, puree the shells with the liquid in a blender. Set a strainer over a large bowl and strain the pureed stock; discard the solids. There should be about 5 cups stock. Refrigerate until ready to use. (The stock can be prepared up to 1 day ahead.)
  
• 3.
  In a large wide saucepan, combine 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, the garlic, and jalapeño. Heat over medium heat, stirring, until sizzling. Add the cumin; cook for 1 minute. Add the shrimp stock and tomatoes. Heat to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer, covered, for 20 minutes. (The recipe can be prepared to this point up to 1 day ahead.)
  
• 4.
  For the fish:
  Sprinkle the fish on both sides with the oregano and salt and pepper to taste; rub into the fish. Coat with the bread crumbs, pressing them on with fingertips; shake off excess. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large nonstick skillet. Add the fish and cook, turning once, until lightly browned and just cooked through, about 8 minutes. Set aside, covered with foil, until ready to serve.
  
• 5.
  Reheat the tomato and shrimp stock mixture to a boil. Add salt to taste, about 2 teaspoons. Add the potatoes and rice; cover and cook over low heat until tender, about 15 minutes. Add the shrimp, peas, and corn. Cover and cook for 5 minutes.
  
• 6.
  While the rice and potatoes are cooking, warm the soup bowls in an oven set at the lowest temperature. Poach the eggs: Half-fill a large deep skillet or sauté pan with water. Heat to a boil; reduce to a simmer. One at a time, break the eggs into a small cup and slip into the simmering water. Cook the eggs until the whites are set, about 5 minutes. Gently lift from the water with a slotted spoon and drain on a plate lined with a double thickness of paper towels.
  
• 7.
  Divide the fish into portions and place a portion in each bowl. Place the poached eggs on top of the fish. Add the cheese and the cilantro, dividing them evenly.
  
• 8.
  Ladle some of the hot soup into a small bowl and stir in the heavy cream, then add to the soup. Reheat for 1 minute; do not boil. Add a generous grinding of black pepper. Ladle the hot soup into the bowls, dividing the ingredients evenly. Serve piping hot.
  

NOTES:
Feta cheese of any kind will be too salty here. To tame the saltiness, drain off the brine and rinse the cheese well under cold running water. Place the cheese in a clean container, cover with milk or water, and marinate for at least 1 day before using; drain well.

In Peru, canned evaporated milk is used in place of heavy cream. If watching calories, do not hesitate to use evaporated skim milk.

Saffron adds a sophisticated flavor and golden hue to this otherwise simple soup. It is best to make the soup and serve at once because the vegetables will lose their fresh taste if reheated.

10 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth

¼ teaspoon crushed saffron threads

½ cup uncooked medium-or long-grain white rice

2 cups packed torn (1-inch pieces) escarole

8 ounces slender green beans, trimmed and cut into ¼-inch pieces (about 2 cups)

1 cup diced (¼-inch) carrots

1 cup diced zucchini or yellow squash (about 1 small)

½ cup frozen petite peas, thawed, or fresh, if available

½ cup diced, seeded, peeled, fresh or canned tomato

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

• 1.
  Heat the chicken broth to a simmer in a large saucepan.
  
• 2.
  Meanwhile, toast the saffron in a small saucepan or skillet, about 20 seconds. Add ½ cup of the hot broth to the saffron; cover and let steep for 10 minutes.
  
• 3.
  Reheat the broth to boiling; add the steeped saffron and the rice. Cook, uncovered, until the rice is almost tender, about 10 minutes.
  
• 4.
  Stir in the escarole, green beans, and carrots; cook, stirring, until the rice and vegetables are very tender, about 8 minutes. Add the zucchini, peas, and tomato. Simmer, uncovered, until the zucchini is tender, about 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
  
• 5.
  Ladle into bowls and sprinkle generously with grated Parmesan.
  

This robust, easy-to-make soup is the perfect quick supper. I make it with Arborio or Baldo rice, but any white rice will do. Use broccoli or broccoli rabe.

8 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth

1 medium carrot, thinly sliced

½ cup uncooked medium-or long-grain white rice

4 cups coarsely chopped broccoli florets and tender stems or broccoli rabe tops and ½-inch lengths peeled broccoli rabe stems

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Red Pepper Oil

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

¼ cup thin slivers (approximately
¹
/
₈
× ½-inch) red bell pepper

¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes

 

1 tablespoon thinly slivered garlic

• 1.
  Heat the broth to a boil in a large saucepan; add the carrot and rice. Cook, covered, over low heat for 10 minutes. Add the broccoli; cook, uncovered, until the broccoli is tender and the soup has thickened, about 8 minutes more. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
  
• 2.
  Meanwhile, for the red pepper oil:
  Heat the oil in a small skillet. Add the red bell pepper slivers and red pepper flakes; cook for 3 minutes, or until the bell pepper begins to brown. Remove from the heat and, with a slotted spoon, transfer the pepper to the soup.
  
• 3.
  Add the garlic to the hot oil and cook over very low heat just until the garlic is golden, about 1 minute; immediately stir the hot oil and garlic mixture into the simmering soup.
  
• 4.
  Ladle into bowls and serve.
  

Soy sauce, mushrooms, and red rice, especially the variety imported from Bhutan, all have a meaty taste. In this hearty soup, they are complemented by the richness of the beef broth and the herbal quality of the spinach.

2 tablespoons peanut oil

8 ounces shiitakes, stems discarded, caps wiped clean and cut into
¹
/
₈
-inch slices

½ cup chopped white part of scallions, plus ¼ cup thinly sliced scallion greens for garnish

1 teaspoon minced garlic

4 cups reduced-sodium beef broth

1 cup cooked red rice or short-grain brown rice

8 ounces spinach, washed and trimmed (about 2 cups lightly packed)

1 tablespoon soy sauce or tamari

1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil

2 ½ teaspoons grated fresh ginger

Kosher salt, optional

2 teaspoons brown sesame seeds (see Note)

• 1.
  Heat the oil in a large heavy saucepan. Add the mushrooms; cook over medium heat, stirring, until tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the scallion whites; cook, stirring, over low heat for 5 minutes. Add the garlic; cook for 1 minute.
  
• 2.
  Add the broth and the rice. Bring to a simmer; simmer, covered, over medium heat for 15 minutes. Stir in the spinach. Add the soy sauce, sesame oil, and ginger. Taste and add salt if needed.
  
• 3.
  Ladle into four bowls. Sprinkle each with ½ teaspoon sesame seeds and 1 tablespoon scallion greens.
  

NOTE:
Sesame seeds come in white, brown, black, and red; the white are the most common. If they are the only ones you can find, toast them in a small heavy skillet over low heat, shaking the pan constantly, until they begin to turn golden, then remove from the heat and the pan. They will color very quickly, within 2 or 3 minutes; do not leave them unattended. I prefer the nutty taste of brown sesame seeds. They are often sold in jars (labeled as roasted sesame seeds) wherever Asian products are sold. To preserve freshness, store sesame seeds in the refrigerator or freezer.

A rather elegant rendition of a basic tomato soup; serve it as a first course or as a light supper with Italian whole wheat bread that has been drizzled with extra virgin olive oil. Almost any mushroom can be used in this soup: white, cremini, or shiitake. I prefer cremini for their deep, earthy flavor. Roast plum tomatoes, no matter what time of the year, to concentrate their flavor.

2 pounds ripe plum tomatoes, halved lengthwise

6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 garlic cloves, minced

½ cup finely chopped onion

1 pound cremini mushrooms, trimmed and chopped (about 4 cups)

2 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley

2 tablespoons thyme leaves

4 cups reduced-sodium vegetable, beef, or chicken broth

1 ½ cups cooked medium-or long-grain white or Arborio rice

2 tablespoons heavy cream, sour cream, or low-fat or whole milk yogurt

• 1.
  Preheat the oven to 400°F.
  
• 2.
  Arrange the tomatoes in a single layer on a baking sheet. Drizzle with ¼ cup of the olive oil. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Roast for 30 minutes, stirring once.
  
• 3.
  Remove from the oven and sprinkle the tomatoes with the garlic, making sure it is on the tomatoes so it won't brown. Roast for 15 to 20 minutes more, until the tomatoes have given up a lot of their juices and some of their skins are blackened. Set aside to cool.
  
• 4.
  Meanwhile, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons oil in a large skillet. Add the onion and cook, stirring, over low heat, until golden, about 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring, over medium heat until golden, about 10 minutes. Meanwhile, finely chop the parsley and 1 tablespoon of the thyme together. Add the chopped herbs to the mushrooms. Sprinkle with salt and pepper; remove from the heat.
  
• 5.
  Spoon out about 1 cup of the mushrooms and reserve. Combine the remaining mushrooms and the roasted tomatoes. Puree the tomatoes and mushrooms in a blender in batches, using some of the broth to help liquefy the mixture; it should be a smooth puree.
  
• 6.
  Transfer the pureed tomatoes and mushrooms to a large saucepan. Add the remaining broth and heat to a simmer. Cover and cook over low heat for 5 minutes. Stir in the cooked rice and the reserved mushrooms; heat through.
  
• 7.
  Ladle the soup into bowls and garnish the top of each with a swirl of heavy cream or stirred sour cream or yogurt. Sprinkle with the remaining 1 tablespoon thyme leaves, dividing evenly.