The Amazing World of Rice (6 page)

The colors of the ingredients in this soup—orange acorn squash, red tomatoes, and brown mushrooms—remind me of autumn leaves. A thick, hearty soup, it is ideal for cool fall days. Spread the preparation out over a couple of days. Make the beef broth one day. Cook the wild rice the next and finish the soup. Cooling and reheating the soup intensifies the flavors and adds even more body. Served with a loaf of crusty whole-grain bread, this is a meal in itself.

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

About 1½ pounds (1 or 2 pieces) meaty beef shin, cut about 1 inch thick

½ onion, skin left on

2 garlic cloves, 1 bruised with the side of a knife, 1 minced

1 carrot, peeled

1 bay leaf

Kosher salt

½ cup uncooked wild rice, rinsed in warm water and drained

½ cup diced onion

8 ounces small white button or cremini mushrooms, trimmed and quartered or cut into ½-inch pieces (about 2½ cups)

¼ cup chopped Italian parsley, plus more for garnish

Freshly ground black pepper

2 cups peeled, cubed (about ½ inch) acorn squash (about 1 pound)

1 cup chopped, seeded, peeled, fresh or canned tomatoes

1 tablespoon tomato paste (see Note)

• 1.
  Heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a large heavy saucepan. Add the beef, onion, and bruised garlic; brown over medium-low heat, turning once. Add 3 quarts water, the carrot, and bay leaf. Cook over low heat (for a clear broth, do not allow to boil) until the broth is reduced to about 8 cups and the meat is falling off the bone, 2½ to 3 hours.
  
• 2.
  Lift the shin from the broth and set aside to cool. Strain the broth; discard the solids. If the broth doesn't equal 8 cups, add water.
  
• 3.
  Pull the meat from the bone and shred or chop fine; discard the gristle, fat, and bone(s). Push the marrow from the center of the bone, dice, and set aside with
  the meat. Carefully blot any fat from the surface of the broth with a double thickness of paper towels. Reserve the meat and marrow separately. (Or, if making this soup over 2 days, pour the broth into a bowl; place the meat and marrow in a separate bowl. Cover and refrigerate. The next day, remove the solid fat from surface of the chilled broth.)
  
• 4.
  In a large saucepan, heat the broth to a boil; season to taste with salt. Stir in the wild rice; cover and cook until the grains are beginning to burst and are tender to the bite, 45 to 55 minutes.
  
• 5.
  Meanwhile, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large skillet. Add the onion, cook, stirring, until golden, about 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms; cook, stirring, until lightly browned. Stir in the minced garlic and the parsley. Cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside.
  
• 6.
  When the wild rice is cooked, add the shredded beef and marrow, the sautéed mushroom mixture, the squash, tomatoes, and tomato paste. Cover and cook over medium-low heat until the squash is tender, about 20 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
  
• 7.
  To serve, ladle into bowls and sprinkle with chopped parsley.
  

NOTE:
What to do with the rest of the can when a recipe calls for 1 tablespoon of tomato paste from a 6-ounce can? I make 1-tablespoonful mounds on a cookie sheet and freeze until firm. Then I lift them off and store them in a freezer bag or plastic container in the freezer.

A bunch of short, squat French carrots from our local farmers' market inspired this simple soup. Basically a puree of carrots cooked in sake and broth, it is very simple to prepare.

1 tablespoon canola or other flavorless vegetable oil

¼ cup minced shallots

1½ pounds carrots, cut into ½-inch cubes (about 4 cups)

2 cups sake

2 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth

2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger

Kosher salt

6 tablespoons heavy cream or crème fraîche

¼ cup minced chives

• 1.
  Combine the oil and shallots in large saucepan; cook, stirring, over low heat, until the shallots are wilted, about 5 minutes. Stir in the carrots; cook, stirring, about 5 minutes. Add the sake and heat to a boil. Cook, uncovered, over medium-low heat until the sake is reduced by two-thirds, 15 to 20 minutes.
  
• 2.
  Add the chicken broth and 2 cups water; cover and cook for 20 minutes, or until the carrots are very soft. Remove from the heat and let cool.
  
• 3.
  Working in batches, puree the carrots with the cooking liquid in a food processor. Pour into a saucepan; add the ginger. Taste and add salt as needed. Reheat over low heat.
  
• 4.
  Ladle the soup into soup plates. Swirl a tablespoon or so of heavy cream across the top of each bowl. Garnish with the minced chives.
  

I
prefer rice salad made with freshly cooked rice
because rice that has been refrigerated tightens and becomes firm and waxy. (This process, called retrogradation, is explained.) Reheating the rice to room temperature by steaming it in a foil packet in a low oven or heating it for about 2 minutes in the microwave will soften it slightly, but the grains will never be as moist and tender as when the rice is just cooked.

White rice takes only 15 minutes to cook, just enough time to prepare a dressing and chop a few vegetables. If you need to prepare the salad ahead of time, this can be a problem, but rice salad that doesn't contain meats or dairy products that might spoil can be stored safely in a cool dark place (e.g., a kitchen cabinet) for several hours. Another option is to prepare and refrigerate the perishable ingredients and then add them to the freshly cooked and cooled rice before serving.

If you must make the salad ahead, know that green vegetables like broccoli, sugar snap or snow peas, green peas, and green beans lose their color and texture when exposed to salad dressing for any length of time. To avoid drab green vegetables, refrigerate them separately and add them to the salad just before serving. Refrigerated leftover rice salad can be rescued by letting it warm to room temperature for 20 minutes or so before serving. Rice has the capacity to absorb flavors quickly, flattening the overall flavor of the salad. Make sure to taste the salad before serving. If it needs a jolt of flavor, add a squeeze of fresh lemon or lime juice, a dash of vinegar, a sprinkling of fresh herbs, a drizzle of olive oil, or a pinch of kosher salt.

Tuscan rice salad presents a canvas for endless variations. Use cut green beans instead of peas; substitute shredded chicken or diced pork roast for the prosciutto; or make the dressing with red wine vinegar instead of lemon juice. Serve as a main dish, or as part of a buffet of other room-temperature dishes.

3 large eggs

¼ cup plus 1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil

¼ teaspoon minced garlic

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

¹
/
₃
cup fresh lemon juice

3 cups cooked Arborio, Baldo, or other medium-or long-grain white rice

½ cup diced (¼-inch) carrot

½ cup frozen petite peas, thawed

¼ cup diced (¼-inch) red onion

2 tablespoons finely chopped Italian parsley

2 tablespoons chopped basil, plus a few sprigs for garnish

2 ounces prosciutto or other flavorful baked or cured ham, cut into thin slivers

Red or oak leaf lettuce leaves

1 large ripe tomato, cored and cut into ½-inch wedges

Small chunks of Parmigiano-Reggiano

• 1.
  Whisk the eggs in a medium bowl, then whisk in 1 teaspoon of the olive oil, the garlic, a pinch of salt, and a grinding of black pepper. Heat a small skillet, preferably nonstick, over medium-low heat. Add the eggs and cook, stirring, until scrambled into large clumps. Remove from the heat; set aside until ready to use.
  
• 2.
  Whisk the lemon juice, the remaining ¼ cup olive oil, ¼ teaspoon salt, and
  ¹
  /
  ₈
  teaspoon pepper in a large bowl. Add the rice, scrambled eggs, carrot, peas, red onion, parsley, basil, and prosciutto. Gently toss to mix.
  
• 3.
  Line a platter with the lettuce leaves. Spoon the rice into the center. Garnish with the tomato wedges, chunks of Parmesan cheese, and basil sprigs.
  

The aroma and flavor of cumin is enhanced when it is lightly toasted before it is added to the salad dressing. The rice is toasted in oil, pilaf-style, before it is cooked. Ground turmeric turns the rice a brilliant yellow, a dramatic background for the black beans.

2 tablespoons canola or other flavorless vegetable oil

2 cups uncooked basmati rice

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

½ teaspoon ground cumin

2 teaspoons kosher salt

Dressing

1 teaspoon ground cumin

¼ cup canola or other flavorless vegetable oil

¼ cup fresh lime juice, or more to taste

½ teaspoon kosher salt, or more to taste 1 garlic clove, minced

Two 15-ounce cans black beans, rinsed and drained

½ cup thinly sliced scallions (white and green parts)

½ cup diced (¼-inch) red bell pepper

½ cup diced (¼-inch) seedless cucumber

¼ cup chopped cilantro, plus a few sprigs for garnish

1 tablespoon minced seeded jalapeño, or more to taste

One ½-pint small cherry tomatoes, stemmed

Lime wedges

• 1.
  Heat the oil in a wide saucepan or deep skillet over low heat. Add the rice; cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Sprinkle with the turmeric and cumin; heat, stirring, for 1 minute. Add 3½ cups water and the salt; heat to a boil. Stir once. Reduce the heat to low; cover and cook until the water is absorbed and the surface is dotted with small steam holes, about 15 minutes. Uncover and let cool to room temperature.
  
• 2.
  For the dressing:
  Sprinkle the cumin into a small skillet. Heat over low heat just until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Remove from the heat. Add the olive oil, lime juice, salt, and garlic; stir to blend. Set aside.
  
• 3.
  Combine the cooled rice, dressing, black beans, scallions, bell pepper, cucumber, cilantro, and jalapeño in a large bowl. Toss lightly to blend. Taste and add more salt and lime juice if necessary. Spoon onto a deep platter or a shallow bowl. Garnish with cilantro sprigs, cherry tomatoes, and lime wedges.
  

Revered in Asia, black rice is reserved for auspicious occasions like births, marriages, and other celebrations. It has a chewy texture, a nutty flavor, and a dramatic black color. Look for black rice imported from China that retains its ebony color when it is cooked (the cooking water will turn black).

1½ cups uncooked black rice, rinsed and drained well

Chicken

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

1 tablespoon canola or other flavorless vegetable oil

2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger

4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts, fillets separated

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

 

4 ounces snow peas

Kosher salt

Dressing

¼ cup canola or other flavorless vegetable oil

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

2 tablespoons unseasoned Japanese rice vinegar

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil

½ teaspoon grated fresh ginger

½ teaspoon minced garlic

½ teaspoon kosher salt

 

2 medium carrots, peeled and coarsely shredded (about 1 cup)

½ cup thinly sliced scallions (white and green parts)

½ cup finely chopped red bell pepper

1 tablespoon brown sesame seeds (see Note)

• 1.
  Cook the rice in plenty of boiling salted water until the grains are soft to the bite, 25 to 35 minutes. Drain well.
  
• 2.
  Meanwhile, for the chicken:
  Combine the lime juice, oil, and ginger in a shallow dish. Add the chicken and turn to coat. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cover and marinate at room temperature for about 15 minutes (or longer in the refrigerator).
  
• 3.
  Heat the grill, or heat a grill pan or a nonstick skillet until hot enough to sizzle and evaporate a drop of water. Add the chicken and cook, turning, once until
  golden and cooked through, 3 to 4 minutes per side (fillets will take 2 minutes per side). Transfer to a plate; set aside at room temperature until ready to serve.
  
• 4.
  Meanwhile, soak the snow peas in a bowl of ice water for 10 minutes.
  
• 5.
  Drain the snow peas and trim them. Stack and cut into ¼-inch slices on the diagonal. Heat a small saucepan of water to a boil; add ½ teaspoon salt. Add the snow peas and blanch for 20 seconds; drain well and plunge into iced water to crisp. Drain again. Set aside.
  
• 6.
  For the dressing:
  Combine the oil, lime juice, rice vinegar, soy sauce, sesame oil, ginger, garlic, and salt in a bowl, whisk until well blended.
  
• 7.
  In a large serving bowl, combine the cooked rice, snow peas, carrots, scallions, and red bell pepper. Add the dressing and toss to blend. Spoon onto a deep platter or shallow bowl.
  
• 8.
  Slice the chicken on the diagonal and arrange on the salad. Sprinkle with the sesame seeds. Serve at room temperature.
  

BLACK RICE AND SNOW PEA SALAD WITH GRILLED SALMON.
Lightly brush 1 pound thick salmon steaks or fillets with soy sauce. Grill or broil turning once, until cooked through, about 10 minutes. Let cool. Remove the skin and any bones. Break the salmon into 1-inch chunks. Make the rice salad, skipping steps 2 and 3. Place 4 cups lightly packed torn salad greens on a large platter, spoon the rice salad in the center, and place the salmon around the edges. Sprinkle the salad and salmon with sesame seeds and garnish with lime wedges.