army commando attack that leveled Mesa Pelada. Luis de la Puente
had sent him to Quillabamba a few days earlier: communications
with urban support bases were not working well, and in the field
they hadn't heard anything about a group of five trained boys whose
arrival had been expected weeks before.
"The support base in Cuzco had been infiltrated," he told me,
speaking with the same calm I remembered. "Several people were
captured, and somebody talked under torture. That's how they got to
Mesa Pelada. The truth was, we hadn't begun operations. Lobaton
and Maximo Velando had moved plans forward in Junin. And after
the ambush in Yahuarina, when they killed so many police, they
threw the army at us. Those of us in Cuzco hadn't begun to move
yet. De la Puente's idea wasn't to stay in the field but to keep
moving. The guerrilla focus is perpetual movement,' that's what
Che taught. But they didn't give us time and we were caught in the
security zone."
The Spiritualist spoke with a curious distance from what he was
saying, as if it had occurred centuries earlier. He didn't know by
what conjunction of circumstances he had escaped the dragnets that
demolished the MIR's support bases in Quillabamba and Cuzco. He
hid in the house of a Cuzcan family, whom he had known long ago
through his theosophical sect. They treated him very well even
though they were afraid. After a couple of months, they got him out
of the city and to Puno, hiding in a freight truck. From there it was
easy to reach Bolivia, where, after a long series of procedures and
formalities, he arranged for East Germany to admit him as a
political refugee.
"Tell me about fat Paul, up there in Mesa Pelada."
Apparently he had adapted well to the life and to the altitude of
3,800 meters. His spirits never flagged, though at times, on marches
exploring the territory around the camp, his body played some bad
tricks on him. Above all when he had to climb up mountains or
down precipices in torrential rains. One time he fell on a slope that
was a quagmire and rolled twenty, thirty meters. His companions
thought he had cracked open his skull, but he got up as good as new,
covered in mud from head to toe.
"He lost a lot of weight," Alfonso added. "The morning I said
goodbye to him, in Illarec ch'aska, he was almost as thin as you.
Sometimes we talked about you. T wonder what our ambassador to
UNESCO is doing?' he'd say. 'Do you think he decided to publish
those poems he was secretly writing?' He never lost his sense of
humor. He always won the joke contests we had at night to keep
from being bored. His wife and son are living in Cuba now."
I would have liked to spend more time with Alfonso the
Spiritualist, but I had to go back to the conference. We said goodbye
with a hug, and I gave him my number so he could call me if he ever
came through Paris.
A little while before or after this conversation, the grim
prophecies of my uncle Ataulfo came true. On October 3,1968, the
military, headed by General Juan Velasco Alvarado, initiated the
coup that ended the democracy presided over by Belaunde Tern*,
who was sent into exile, and a new military dictatorship began in
Peru that would last for twelve years.
3
In the second half of the 1960s, London displaced Paris as the city of
styles and trends that moved into Europe and then spread all over
the world. Music replaced books and ideas as a center of attraction
for the young, above all with the Beatles but also including Cliff
Richard, the Shadows, the Rolling Stones with Mick Jagger, other
English bands and singers, and hippies and the psychedelic
revolution of the flower children. As they had once gone to Paris to
make the revolution, many Latin Americans immigrated to London
to join the partisans of cannabis, pop music, and the promiscuous
life. Carnaby Street supplanted Saint-Germain as the navel of the
world. London was the birthplace of the miniskirt, long hair, the
eccentric outfits commemorated by the musicals Hair and Jesus
Christ Superstar, the popularization of drugs, beginning with
marijuana and ending with LSD, the fascination with Hindu
spiritualism and Buddhism, the practice of free love, the emergence
of homosexuals from the closet, gay pride campaigns, as well as a
total rejection of the bourgeois establishment, in the name not of
the socialist revolution, to which the hippies were indifferent, but of
a hedonistic and anarchic pacifism, tamed by a love for nature and
animals and a disavowal of traditional morality7. Debates regarding
La Mutualite, the nouveau roman, refined singer-songwriters like
Leo Ferre or Georges Brassens, and Parisian art cinemas were no
longer the points of reference for young rebels, but rather Trafalgar
Square and the parks where they demonstrated behind Vanessa
Redgrave and Tariq Ali against the war in Vietnam, between crowded
concerts by their great idols and tokes of Colombian herb, and pubs
and discotheques, symbols of the new culture that like a magnet
attracted millions of young people of both sexes to London. In
England these were also the years of theatrical splendor, and the
mounting of Peter Weiss's Marat/Sade in 1964, directed by Peter
Brook, best known for his revolutionary stagings of Shakespeare,
was an event throughout all of Europe. I've never seen anything
onstage since then that etched itself so deeply in my mind.
Through one of those strange conjunctions woven by fate, it
turned out that in the late sixties I was spending long periods of
time in England and living in the very heart of swinging London: in
Earl's Court, an extremely lively and cosmopolitan section west of
Kensington which, because of the many New Zealanders and
Australians, was known as Kangaroo Valley. In fact, the adventure of
May 1968, when the young people of Paris filled the Latin Quarter
with barricades and declared that one had to be a realist by choosing
the impossible, found me in London, where, because of the strikes
that paralyzed train stations and airports in France, I was stranded
for a few weeks, unable to find out if anything had happened to my
little apartment near the Ecole Militaire.
When I returned to Paris, I discovered that my apartment was
intact, for the revolution of May 1968 had not spilled over the
perimeter of the Latin Quarter and Saint-Germain-des-Pres.
Contrary to what many people prophesied during those euphoric
days, it did not have significant political consequences except to
accelerate the fall of de Gaulle, inaugurate the brief five-year era of
Pompidou, and reveal the existence of a left more modern than the
French Communist Party ("la crapule stalinienne" according to the
phrase of Cohn-Bendit, one of the leaders of '68). Customs became
freer, but from the cultural point of view, with the disappearance of
an entire illustrious generation—Mauriac, Camus, Sartre, Aron,
Merleau-Ponty, Malraux—there was a discreet cultural retraction
during those years, when instead of creators, the maitres a penser
became the critics, first the structuralists in the style of Michel
Foucault and Roland Barthes, and then the deconstructionists, like
Gilles Deleuze and Jacques Derrida, with their arrogant, esoteric
rhetoric, isolated in cabals of devotees and removed from the
general public, whose cultural life, as a consequence of this
development, became increasingly banal.
Those were years when I was working very hard, though, as the
bad girl might have said, with only moderate achievements: the
move from translator to interpreter. As I had done the first time, I
filled the emptiness of her disappearance by taking on countless
obligations. I resumed my classes in Russian and simultaneous
interpretation, to which I devoted myself tenaciously after my hours
of work at UNESCO. I spent two summers in the USSR, for two
months each time, the first in Moscow and the second in Leningrad,
taking special intensive Russian-language courses for interpreters in
secluded university areas where we felt as if we were at a Jesuit
boarding school.
Some two years after my final supper with Robert Arnoux, I had
a rather subdued relationship with Cecile, a functionary at UNESCO,
an attractive, pleasant woman but a nondrinker, a vegetarian, and a
devout Catholic, with whom I got along perfectly well only when we
made love, because in everything else we were polar opposites. At
one point we contemplated the possibility of living together, but
both of us became frightened—I above all—at the prospect of
cohabitation when we were so different and there was not, deep
down, even the shadow of true love between us. Our relationship
languished from tedium, and one day we stopped seeing and calling
each other.
It was difficult for me to obtain my first contracts as an
interpreter in spite of excelling at all the exams and having the
corresponding diplomas. But this was a tighter network than that of
translators, and the professional associations, real mafias, admitted
new members by the eyedropper. I achieved membership only when
I could add Russian to English and French as the languages I
translated into Spanish. My interpreting contracts kept me traveling
a great deal in Europe, and frequently to London, especially for
economic conferences and seminars. One day in 1970, at the
Permian consulate on Sloane Street, where I had gone to renew my
passport, I ran into Juan Barreto, a childhood friend and classmate
at the Colegio Champagnat in Miraflores, who was also renewing his
passport.
He had become a hippie, not the tattered kind but an elegant one.
He wore his silky, graying hair hanging loose down to his shoulders
and had a rather sparse beard that created a carefully tended muzzle
around his mouth. I remembered him as chubby and short, but now
he was taller than me by a few centimeters and was as slim as a
model. He wore cherry-colored velvet trousers and sandals that
seemed to be made of parchment, not leather, a printed silk Oriental
tunic, a blaze of color framed by his loose, open jacket that reminded
me of the ones worn by Turkoman shepherds in a documentary on
Mesopotamia I had seen at the Palais de Chaillot in the series
Connaissance du monde, which I attended every month.
We went for coffee in the vicinity of the consulate, and our
conversation was so agreeable I invited him to have lunch at a pub
in Kensington Gardens. We spent more than two hours together, he
speaking and I listening and interjecting monosyllables.
His story was novelesque. I recalled that in his last years at
school, Juan began to work at Radio El Sol as a commentator and
soccer announcer, and his Marist friends predicted a great future for
him as a sports journalist. "But that was really a child's game," he
told me. "My true vocation was always painting." He attended the
School of Fine Arts in Lima and took part in a group show at the
Institute of Contemporary Art on Jiron Ocona. Then his father sent
him to take a course in design and color at St. Martin School of Arts
in London. As soon as he arrived in England, he decided the city was
his ("Brother, it seemed to be waiting for me") and he would never
leave it. When he told his father he wasn't returning to Peru, his
father cut off his allowance. Then he began a poverty-stricken
existence as a street artist, making portraits of tourists in Leicester
Square or in the doorways of Harrods, and drawing with chalk on
the sidewalks of Parliament, Big Ben, or the Tower of London and
then passing the hat among the onlookers. He slept at the YMCA
and in miserable bed-and-breakfasts and, like other dropouts, on
winter nights he took refuge in religious shelters for human rejects
and stood in long lines at churches and charitable institutions where
they gave out bowls of hot soup twice a day. He often spent the night
outdoors, in parks or inside cartons in the vestibules of stores. "I
was desperate, but never once in all that time did I feel fucked-up
enough to ask my father for a ticket back to Peru."
In spite of their insolvency, he and other vagabond hippies
managed to travel to Kathmandu, where he discovered that in
spiritual Nepal it was more difficult to survive without money than
in materialistic Europe. The solidarity of his migratory companions
was decisive in keeping him from dying of hunger or disease,
because in India he contracted a Maltese fever that brought him to
within an inch of departing this world. The girl and two boys
traveling with him took turns watching over him as he convalesced
in a filthy hospital in Madras where the rats wandered among the
patients lying on the floor on straw mats.
"I'd become totally accustomed to the life of a tramp, to my
home being on the street, when my luck changed."
He was making charcoal portraits for a couple of pounds each at