the entrance to the Victoria and Albert Museum on Brompton Road,
when a lady carrying a parasol and wearing net gloves unexpectedly
asked him to draw the portrait of the dog she was walking, a female
King Charles spaniel, with white and coffee-colored spots, that was
brushed, washed, and combed with the airs of a lady. The dog's
name was Esther. The lady was delighted with the double drawing
Juan made, "full face and in profile." When she went to pay him, she
discovered she didn't have any money, either because her wallet had
been stolen or because she had left it at home. "It doesn't matter,"
said Juan. "It's been an honor to work for so distinguished a model."
The lady, confused and grateful, left. But after taking a few steps,
she returned and handed Juan a card. "If you're ever in the area,
knock on the door so you can greet your new friend." She pointed at
the dog.
Mrs. Stubard, a retired nurse and childless widow, became a fairy
godmother whose magic wand took Juan Barreto off the London
streets and gradually cleaned him up ("One of the consequences of
being a tramp is that you never bathe, and you don't even smell as
dirty as you really are"), fed him, dressed him, and finally catapulted
him into the most English of English environments: the world of
owners, riders, trainers, and enthusiasts at the Newmarket Riding
Club, where the most famous racehorses in Great Britain, and
perhaps the world, are born, grow up, die, and are buried.
Mrs. Stubard lived alone with little Esther in a redbrick house,
with a small garden that she tended herself and kept beautiful, in a
quiet, prosperous section of St. John's Wood. She had inherited it
from her husband, a pediatrician who had spent his entire life in the
wards and consulting rooms of Charing Cross Hospital caring for
other people's children though he never could have one of his own.
Juan Barreto knocked on the widow's door one afternoon when he
was hungrier, lonelier, and more anguished than usual. She
recognized him immediately.
"I've come to see how my friend Esther is getting along. And, if
it's not too much trouble, to ask you for a piece of bread."
"Come in, artist," she said with a smile. "Would you mind
shaking off those disgusting sandals you're wearing? And take the
opportunity to wash your feet at the faucet in the garden."
"Mrs. Stubard was an angel come down from heaven," said Juan
Barreto. "She had framed my charcoal drawing of the dog and kept it
on an end table in the living room. It looked very nice." She also had
Juan wash his hands with soap and water ("From the beginning she
adopted the air of a bossy mother that she still uses with me") and
fixed him a couple of tomato, cheese, and cucumber sandwiches and
a cup of tea. They talked for a long time, and she urged Juan to tell
her his life from A to Z. She was alert and avid to know everything
about the world, and she insisted that Juan describe in detail what
the hippies were like, where they came from, and what kinds of lives
they led.
"You won't believe it, but I was fascinated by the old lady. I went
to see her not only so she could feed me but because I had a great
time talking to her. She had a seventy-year-old body but a fifteenyear-
old spirit. And this'll kill you, I turned her into a hippie."
Juan stopped by the little house in St. John's Wood once a week,
bathed and combed Esther, helped Mrs. Stubard prune and water
the garden, and sometimes went shopping with her at the nearby
Sainsbury market. The bourgeois residents of St. John's Wood must
have been surprised to see the mismatched pair. Juan helped her
cook—he taught her Permian recipes for stuffed potato, shredded
chicken and chili, ceviche—and washed the dishes for her, and then
they had after-dinner conversations during which Juan played music
by the Beatles and the Rolling Stones for her, and recounted a
thousand and one adventures and anecdotes about the hippies, male
and female, he had met on his wanderings around London, India,
and Nepal. Mrs. Stubard's curiosity was not satisfied with Juan's
explanations of how cannabis sharpened one's lucidity and
sensitivity, principally for music. At last, overcoming her
prejudices—she was a practicing Methodist—she gave Juan some
money so she could try marijuana. "She was so restless, I swear she
would have tried a cap of LSD if I had encouraged her to." Their
marijuana session was carried out against the musical background
of the soundtrack of Yellow Submarine, the Beatles picture Mrs.
Stubard and Juan had gone arm in arm to see at a theater in
Picadilly Circus. My friend was afraid his protector and friend would
have a bad trip and, in fact, eventually she complained of a headache
and fell asleep faceup on the living-room carpet after two hours of
extraordinary excitement when she chattered like a parrot, bursting
into laughter and doing ballet steps before the stupefied eyes of
Juan and Esther.
Their relationship turned into something more than friendship, a
fraternal companionship of accomplices in spite of the differences in
age, language, and background. "I felt as if she were my mother, my
sister, my buddy, my guardian angel."
As if Juan's testimony regarding the hippie subculture were not
enough for her, one day Mrs. Stubard suggested he invite two or
three of his friends for tea. He had all kinds of doubts. He feared the
consequences of that effort to mix water and oil, but finally he
arranged for the meeting. He chose three of the more presentable of
his hippie friends and told them if they gave Mrs. Stubard a hard
time, or stole anything from her house, he'd break his pacifist vows
and strangle them. The two girls and the boy—Rene, Jody, and
Aspern—sold incense and bags woven according to supposed
Afghani patterns on the streets of Earl's Court. They behaved fairly
well and made short work of the strawberry shortcake and almond
pastries Mrs. Stubard had prepared for them, but when they lit a
stick of incense, explaining to the lady of the house that this would
purify the atmosphere spiritually and that the karma of each person
present would improve, it turned out that Mrs. Stubard was allergic
to the purifying smoke: she suffered an attack of loud, unstoppable
sneezes that reddened her eyes and nose and set off Esther's
barking. When this incident had been overcome, the get-together
proceeded fairly well until Rene, Jody, and Aspern told Mrs. Stubard
they formed a love triangle and that the three of them making love
was their homage to the Holy Trinity—the Father, the Son, and the
Holy Spirit—and an even more determined way of putting into
practice the slogan "Make love not war," approved at the last
demonstration in Trafalgar Square against the war in Vietnam by no
less a personage than the philosopher and mathematician Bertrand
Russell. Within the Methodist morality she had been taught, a
three-way love was something Mrs. Stubard had not imagined even
in her most salacious nightmare. "The poor woman's jaw dropped
and she spent the rest of the afternoon staring in a catatonic stupor
at the trio I had brought to her house. Later, she confessed with a
melancholy air that, having been brought up as English girls of her
generation were brought up, she had been deprived of many curious
things in life. And she told me she never had seen her husband
naked, because from the first day to the last they made love in the
dark."
From visiting her once a week, Juan passed on to two, then three
visits, and finally he moved in with Mrs. Stubard, who fixed up the
small room that had been her late husband's, since in his final years
they'd had separate bedrooms. Contrary to what Juan had feared,
their cohabitation was perfect. She never tried to interfere in any
way in Juan's life, or ask why he slept elsewhere on certain nights or
came home when the residents of St. John's Wood were leaving for
work. She gave him a key to the house. "The only thing she worried
about was my taking a bath a couple of times a week," Juan said
with a laugh. "Because you may not believe it, but after almost three
years as a street hippie, I had lost the habit of showering. In Mrs.
Stubard's house, I gradually rediscovered the Miraflores perversion
of a daily shower."
In addition to helping her in the garden and kitchen, and taking
Esther for walks and putting the trash can out on the street, Juan
had long, intimate conversations with Mrs. Stubard, always with a
cup of tea in their hands and a platter of gingersnaps in front of
them. He told her about Peru and she talked of an England that,
from the perspective of swinging London, seemed prehistoric: boys
and girls who stayed in harsh boarding schools until they were
sixteen and where, except for the disreputable districts of Soho, St.
Pancras, and the East End, life ended at nine o'clock at night. The
only diversion Mrs. Stubard and her husband allowed themselves
was to go occasionally to hear a concert or an opera at Covent
Garden. During summer vacation they spent a week in Bristol, in the
house of her brother and sister-in-law, and another week in the
Scottish Highlands, which her husband loved. Mrs. Stubard had
never been out of Great Britain. But she was interested in the world:
she read The Times carefully, beginning with the obituaries, and
listened to BBC newscasts on the radio at one in the afternoon and
at eight in the evening. It never had occurred to her to buy a
television set, and she went to the movies only rarely. But she had a
phonograph and listened to the symphonies of Mozart, Beethoven,
and Benjamin Britten.
One day her nephew Charles, her only close relative, came for
tea. He was a horse trainer at Newmarket, quite a character,
according to his aunt. And he must have been, judging by the red
Jaguar he parked at the door to the house. Young and jovial, with
curly blond hair and red cheeks, he was amazed there wasn't a single
bottle of good Scotch in the house and that he had to make do with a
glass of the sweet muscatel Mrs. Stubard regaled him with after tea,
the inevitable cucumber sandwiches, and the cheese and lemon
cake. He was very cordial to Juan, though he had difficulty7 locating
in the world the exotic country the hippie of the house came
from—he confused Peru with Mexico—something he criticized
himself for with a sporting spirit: "I'm going to buy a map of the
world and a geography manual so I won't stick my foot in my mouth
again the way I did today." He stayed until nightfall, telling
anecdotes about the thoroughbred he was training for the races at
Newmarket. And he confessed he had become a trainer because he
couldn't be a jockey, given his husky build. "Being a jockey is a
terrible sacrifice, but it's also the most beautiful profession in the
world. Winning the Derby, victory at Ascot, just imagine! Better than
winning first prize in the lottery."
Before he left he stood looking, with great satisfaction, at the
charcoal sketch Juan Barreto had made of Esther. "This is a work of
art," he declared. "I laughed at him to myself, taking him for a
yokel," Juan Barreto said in self-recrimination.
A short while later my friend received a note that, second only to
his street encounter with Mrs. Stubard and Esther, definitively
changed the direction of his life. Would the "artist" be interested in
painting a portrait of Primrose, the mare Charles was training, the
star of Mr. Patrick Chick's stable, whose owner, happy with the
rewards she brought him at the track, wanted to eternalize her in an
oil painting? He was offering two hundred pounds if he liked the
painting; if not, Juan could keep the canvas and receive fifty pounds
for his efforts. "My ears still buzz with the vertigo I felt as I read that
letter from Charles." Juan rolled his eyes with retrospective
emotion.
Thanks to Primrose, Charles, and Mr. Chick, Juan stopped being
an insolvent hippie and became a salon hippie, whose talent for
immortalizing on canvas fillies, mares, breeders, and racers
("animals about which I was completely ignorant") gradually opened
to him the doors of the Newmarket owners and trainers. Mr. Chick
liked the oil painting of Primrose and gave an astounded Juan
Barreto the two hundred pounds he had promised. The first thing
Juan did was to buy Mrs. Stubard a little flowered hat and matching
umbrella.
That had been four years ago. Juan still did not completely
believe the fantastic change in his luck. He had painted at least a
hundred oils of horses and made countless drawings, sketches, and
studies in pencil and in charcoal, and he had so much work that the
stable owners at Newmarket were obliged to wait weeks before he
could take care of their requests. He bought a little house in the
country halfway between Cambridge and Newmarket, and a pied-aterre
in Earl's Court for his visits to London. Whenever he came to