Ultimate Baseball Road Trip (60 page)

The infield seats (Sections 415–419) are much preferred, though only Sections 417–419 are free from underhang obstructions. If you cannot get into these three sections, and an underhang bothers you, you might do better to sit along the right-field side of the park. The outfield-most seats (Sections 408–414) have a variety of problems. Sections 408, 409, and part of 410 are obstructed by the lower seats of the Machine Room Grille. In the rest of Section 410 through Section 414 the left-field corner is lost to the underhang of the 400 level. To make them more appealing, the Reds have designated Sections 408, 409 and 410 “All You Can Eat” seats, offering unlimited hot dogs, popcorn, peanuts and soda to those who accede to sit where they’ll have a lousy view of the game.

From the Gap to around the plate and out to right field are three different pricing tiers, the best being the View Level Boxes in Sections 420 through 430 on the infield. These seats are a bit farther from the field than their counterparts on the left-field side (Mezzanine Infield Seats) but sight lines are perfectly unobstructed. We prefer these seats to the ones in the Mezzanine level, except those in Sections 417 through 419, which are a bit closer for the same price.

View Level Boxes 431–437 all present ticketholders with a partially blocked view of the right-field corner, but less so than their left-field counterparts. Plus there is the added bonus while sitting on the right-field side of enjoying the breeze off the Ohio River on hot summer days.

Above these are the 500 Level View seats. Sections 515 through 531 are on the infield and thus, preferable to the rest, and we recommend them, except for Sections 515–516, and 531, which suffer from a bit of an underhang. Sections 511 through 514 and 532 through 535 on the View Level offer the second worst views in ballpark. They’re distant from the action, and the underhang issues increase in severity the farther out you sit.

Lastly and definitely least, are the Outer View Level seats in Sections 509, 510, 536, and 537. By the time you get to these seats deep in the outfield corners it will likely be about the 5th inning. They’re cheap, but bad, so you know the drill. Buy them for cheap bucks and sit somewhere else. Seat-hopping, especially on the third level, is fairly easy.

Plenty of scalpers hang out along Third Street and are easy to spot by the signage they wear. They must shop at the same place because all of the signs were the same: white with red text that read, “I need tickets.” Clearly they were both buying and selling. Scalped tickets for Great American aren’t exactly selling like U2 tickets, so do take advantage if you’re looking for a primo seat at a cheapo price. Patience is the best weapon in a ticket-buyer’s bag of tricks. Hang around and wait for a while. As the first pitch approaches, scalpers know their commodity cools off drastically, and you should reap the benefits of rapidly dropping ticket prices. There are also several slightly more legitimate ticket brokers operating out of offices on Third and Fourth Streets.

In the days of parking-lot-ensconced Riverfront there was no neighborhood around the park. There wasn’t room for one. In the years since the new park opened, the restaurant and bar scene in the immediate vicinity of the park hasn’t improved as immensely as in other cities where new parks have sprouted because, like its cookie-cutter predecessor, Great American is bordered by a freeway, the Ohio River, parking lots, and U.S. Bank Arena. But a quick venture either into downtown or across the river into Covington, Kentucky, can increase your prospects.

From US Route 50 eastbound, take Interstate 75 northbound or southbound or Interstate 71 northbound to the Second Street exit. Turn onto Main Street or Vine Street for downtown garages. From Interstate 71 southbound or US Route 50 westbound take the Third Street exit, then take a left onto Walnut and a left again onto Second for the team garage. Or take the Third Street exit, then turn right onto Main, Broadway, or Vine for downtown garages. There is a team parking lot underneath the stands of the ballpark at the corner of Second Street and Pete Rose Way. Well, at least it’s not under the infield like it used to be. The financial district of Cincinnati, like most financial districts, provides plenty of parking spaces. Garages offer game-day specials once all the suits start heading home. But here’s one better: At the edge of town near the park are meters which, after three o’clock, can be loaded so you can stay all night for just a few dollars. After 5:00 p.m. street parking is free and you’re in the clear until 8:00 a.m. the next morning.

The Metro, Cincinnati’s bus system, is a viable way to get to the park if you’re staying in town. Also referred to as SORTA, the Southwestern Ohio Regional Transportation Authority offers many different routes that eventually make their way near the park.

SORTA Info and Maps:
www.sorta.com/

No new park has done so well to memorialize one of its city’s old yards as Great American has. Crosley Terrace sits at the corner of Second and Main, welcoming fans to the game. And boy does it shine. Landscaped grass inclines at the same grade as the terrace that once rose to the outfield
wall at Crosley. Inscribed bricks scattered about the plaza reflect messages from adoring fans. A mound rises, built to the specifications of the bump at Crosley Field and four favorite Reds from the Crosley era participate in a game as if they’ve been frozen in time. The first of these exceptionally well done bronzes that are the work of sculptor Tom Tsuchiya is of Joe Nuxhall, who won 135 games—all but five for the Reds—in a sixteen-year career. Sixty feet, six inches away, in the right-handed batter’s box, Frank Robinson is captured in mid-swing, while behind him catcher Ernie Lombardi squats, waiting to receive. Lombardi was nicknamed “The Schnozz,” and “Cyrano of the Iron Mask” due to his prominent nose, and the statue does well to replicate that facial feature. Meanwhile, Ted Kluszewski waits in the on-deck circle. Somehow we think it’s going to be a while before Big Klu takes his hacks.

We really appreciate the fine job the sculptor did in making these true to life. We love that the statues are interacting with one another. And we love that the four players so honored were chosen in a ballot by Reds fans who were asked to pick a pitcher, catcher and two hitters from the Crosley days to be immortalized in bronze.

As for the players themselves, only Robinson was alive and healthy enough to participate in the unveiling ceremony and to take stock of just what it meant to be bronzed outside the Reds home. When his statue was unveiled in 2003 he choked up in appreciation. “The statue probably means more to me than my number being retired,” he said. “How many people—I don’t care what they’ve done for a ball club—have a statue in their honor at the ballpark? That is very special, very warm.”

We can only hope that after the Reds have played fifty seasons or so at Great American and have amassed a memory bank full of favorite players from the “Great American Era” there will be a similar tribute to Great American and its stars outside the new park’s gates. We hope Joey Votto gets every bit as emotional as Mr. Robinson did. We figure that will be in the year 2065 or so, when this book will be in its fifteenth edition, written by our heirs, of course.

100 Joe Nuxhall Way

http://mlb.mlb.com/cin/hof/index.jsp

The Cincinnati Reds Hall of Fame and Museum is located at the east end of the ballpark. The hall connects with the park via a bridge and is open year-round. Adult tickets cost $10. With the recent closing of the Legends of the Game Museum at Rangers Ballpark in Arlington, the Reds Museum now ranks with the Braves Museum in Atlanta as one of the best ballpark museums in the bigs. Fans find traveling and permanent exhibits to honor great moments and players in the long history of baseball’s most historic team. Carved figures honor the members of the Big Red Machine, a wall-sized panoramic photo of the first game ever played at Crosley Field serves as the backdrop of a plaque gallery, and a fifty-foot-high wall of balls incorporates one shiny white Rawlings for every one of Rose’s record 4,256 hits. “The Ultimate Reds Room,” meanwhile, looks a lot like the bedroom Josh had until he was twenty-five years old and his parents finally kicked him out of the house, only instead of Reds paraphernalia wallpapering every inch of free space, Josh’s not-so-swingin’ pad was adorned with Red Sox collectibles.

Beyond the center-field fence is a dock where riverboats drop off passengers headed to the game. There’s even a gate beyond center to let them into the park. The dock is highlighted by a sculpture that features a riverboat paddlewheel with a dozen smokestacks that emit blasts of steam. The sculpture is a gathering place for children who play in it as if it were a fountain.

This is a nice tribute to the river-boating heritage of Cincinnati. But even if you don’t get a chance to visit the landing, you’ll still feel the presence of the river and the subculture that developed around and upon it through the generations. While sitting inside Great American, you’ll observe riverboats continuously passing by, giving the park an atmosphere utterly its own.

Kevin:
I half expect to see Huck Finn go floating past.

Josh:
I’m pretty sure Huck was a
Mississippi
River rat.

Kevin:
It doesn’t matter which river. It’s a metaphor.

Josh:
Whatever.

A rose garden marks the exact spot where Pete Rose’s 4,192nd hit landed in Riverfront’s left-center field, as Rose broke Cobb’s record. A single white rose—symbolizing the ball—blooms amidst a sea of otherwise red flowers. Does this town ever love Charlie Hustle! They also renamed a road nearby “Pete Rose Way,” and they held a bunch of events, at the park and across the city in 2010, to celebrate the twenty-fifth anniversary of Rose’s ascension to Hit King.

Kevin:
What are you doing down there?

Josh:
Picking a flower for Heather.

Kevin:
Dude. Not cool.

Josh:
There’s no sign saying you can’t.

Kevin:
I think it’s assumed.

A freeway separates the ballpark from downtown Cincinnati, leaving little of that classic urban ballpark feel. Though there are places worthy of a visit, we recommend taking the short walk across the river into Kentucky. But first we’ll list a few watering holes and eateries worth visiting for those determined to stay in The Buckeye State.

254 East Fourth St.

www.skylinechili.com/

Skyline Chili is a minor phenomenon in Cincinnati, as this popular local chain prepares its chili in some unique “ways.” Unlike the familiar Texas-style chili, the classic three-way Cincinnati-style is served over spaghetti and covered with shredded cheese. Four-way adds onions or red beans to the mix. Five-way adds red beans, onions and cheese. According to local lore, the original recipe was brought to America by a Greek immigrant named Nicholas Lambrinides.

Josh:
The Greeks make great chili! This is surely their greatest achievement!

Kevin:
Yes, right before inventing democracy.

307 Sycamore St.

Directly across the freeway from Great American, at the corner of Third and Sycamore, fans find an outdoor patio that’s the perfect setting for a pregame beverage. The In-Between is a no-frills kind of place that draws good crowds. Pictures of old Reds players adorn the walls. The food is typical pub-grub along the lines of burgers and chicken sandwiches.

218 Third St.

This sports bar is small inside but does have pool tables and dartboards. Eclectic sports memorabilia hangs on the walls: everything from baseball to the Kentucky Derby to golf to college football. Catering much more to the Bengals crowd, this is the kind of place you go to if you want to see a lingerie show with your beer. But we’re not promising anything. We can verify that they offer fans free peanuts and popcorn on game days. Hey, that counts for something. And Head First has actor/director George Clooney’s stamp of approval, for what it’s worth. In 2011, Clooney shot scenes for his movie
The Ides of March
at the bar.