Flapper (47 page)

³
“sex rights”:
Cott,
The Grounding of Modern Feminism
, 42–43.

⁴
“These Modern Women”:
Elaine Showalter, ed.,
These Modern Women: Autobiographical Essays from the Twenties
(New York: Feminist Press at the City University of New York, 1979), 5.

⁵
Heterodoxy:
See Judith Schwartz,
Radical Feminists of Heterodoxy: Greenwich Village, 1912–1940
(Norwich, Vt.: New Victoria Publishers, 1986).

⁶
“inquisitive and skeptical eye”:
Symes, “Still a Man’s Game,” 678–79.

⁷
“Declaration of Sentiments”:
Eleanor Flexner,
Century of Struggle: The Women’s Rights Movement in the United States
, rev. ed. 1975 (Cambridge, Mass.: Belknap Press of Harvard University Press, 1959), 74–75.

⁸
Charlotte Woodward:
Flexner,
Century of Struggle
, 74–75.

⁹
“rights
of every human”:
Cott,
The Grounding of Modern Feminism
, 19. Italics added for emphasis.

¹⁰
According to prevailing wisdom:
Elaine Tyler May,
Great Expectations: Marriage and Divorce in Post-Victorian America
(Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1980), 17–22.

¹¹
To many second-generation suffragists:
Paula Baker, “The Domestication of Politics: Women and American Political Society, 1780–1920,”
American Historical Review
89, no. 3 (June 1984): 620–47.

¹²
“Why Women Should Vote”:
Aileen S. Kraditor,
The Ideas of the Woman Suffrage Movement, 1890–1920
, rev. ed. 1981 (New York: Columbia University Press, 1965), 68–69.

¹³
“Women’s place is Home”:
William H. Chafe,
The Paradox of Change: American Women in the 20
^th
Century
(New York: Oxford University Press, 1991), 15.

¹⁴
Over the preceding decade:
Cott,
The Grounding of Modern Feminism
, 135. By 1925, sixteen states banned women from working at night; thirteen states established minimum wages for women.

¹⁵
to justify these laws:
Alice Kessler-Harris,
Out to Work: A History of Wage-Earning Women in the United States
(New York: Oxford University Press, 1982), 186.

¹⁶
Alice Paul:
Cott,
The Grounding of Modern Feminism
, 122.

¹⁷
Another member of the NWP:
Cott,
The Grounding of Modern Feminism
, 124.

¹⁸
“the most important function”:
Cott,
The Grounding of Modern Feminism
, 129.

¹⁹
“slaves to the machines of industry”:
Cott,
The Grounding of Modern Feminism
, 134.

²⁰
“flapper attitude”: New York Times
, April 12, 1922, 5.

²¹
“feminists—New Style”:
Dorothy Dunbar Bromley, “Feminist—New Style,”
Harper’s Monthly Magazine
155 (October 1927): 552.

²²
Bromley concluded:
Bromley, “Feminist—New Style,” 560. Italics added for emphasis.

C
HAPTER
12: T
HE
L
INGERIE
S
HORTAGE IN
T
HIS
C
OUNTRY

¹
sex was on the brain:
Mary Murphy, “ ‘ … And All That Jazz’: Changing Manners and Morals in Butte After World War I,”
Montana
, 46, no. 4 (Winter 1996): 58.

²
“tall, urbane”: New York Times
, February 23, 1968, 1.

³
“fifteen and seventy-five”: New York Times
, February 23, 1968, 1.

⁴
“Maybe we began drinking”:
Harrison Kinney,
James Thurber: His Life and Times
(New York: Henry Holt and Co., 1995), 380.

⁵
“I just learned”:
Harold Ross to Lois Long, May 16, 1930,
The New Yorker
Records, New York Public Library, Box 6, Lois Long Folder.

⁶
“Zelda Fitzgerald figure”:
Kennedy Fraser,
Ornament and Silence: Essays on Women’s Lives
(New York: Knopf, 1996), 234.

⁷
Their marriage announcement:
James Thurber,
The Years with Ross
(New York: Little Brown and Co., 1957), 26–27.

⁸
a Packard: New York Times
, November 30, 1929, 20.

⁹
“All we were saying”:
Kinney,
James Thurber
, 380.

¹⁰
nationwide alcohol consumption:
David E. Kyvig,
Daily Life in the United States, 1920–1940
(Chicago: Ivan R. Dee, 2002), 24.

¹¹
three-quarters of all college-age men:
Paula S. Fass,
The Damned and the Beautiful: American Youth in the 1920s
(New York: Oxford University Press, 1977), 275–77.

¹²
“Imagine yourself kissed”:
Caroline Smith-Rosenberg, “The Female World of Love and Ritual: Relations Between Women in Nineteenth-Century America,” in
Disorderly Conduct: Visions of Gender in Victorian America
(New York: Knopf, 1985), 57.

¹³
“my girl of all the girls”:
Smith-Rosenberg, “The Female World of Love and Ritual,” 58.

¹⁴
“When a Vassar girl”:
John D’Emilio and Estelle B. Freedman,
Intimate Matters: A History of Sexuality in America
(Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1988), 126.

¹⁵
1870s to the 1920s:
Caroline Smith-Rosenberg, “The New Woman as Androgynye: Social Disorder and Gender Crisis, 1870–1936,” in
Disorderly Conduct
, 253.

¹⁶
Boston marriages:
Smith-Rosenberg, “The New Woman as Androgynye,” 254.

¹⁷
Bryn Mawr College:
Smith-Rosenberg, “The New Woman as Androgynye,” 281.

¹⁸
women in 1890:
Fass,
The Damned and the Beautiful
, 66.

¹⁹
gay subcultures:
John D’Emilio, “Capitalism and Gay Identity,” in Ann Snitow, Christine Stansell, and Sharon Thompson, eds.,
Powers of Desire: The Politics of Sexuality
(New York: Monthly Review Press, 1983), 100–13.

²⁰
“Protestant Westerners”:
Kinney,
James Thurber
, 379–80.

²¹
“lingerie shortage in this country”: New Yorker
, November 14, 1925, 24.

²²
“Turn about”: New Yorker
, October 19, 1925, 28–29.

²³
“perennial Greenwich Village Inn”: New Yorker
, August 1, 1925, 20.

²⁴
“Without being flapper”: New Yorker
, November 21, 1925, 22.

C
HAPTER
13: A M
IND
F
ULL OF
F
ABULATIONS

¹
rambling town house:
Axel Masden,
Chanel: A Woman of Her Own
(New York: Henry Holt, 1990), 128.

²
“at the farthest corner”:
Marcel Hadrich,
Coco Chanel: Her Life, Her Secrets
(Boston: Little, Brown, 1971), 25.

³
“I told myself”:
Masden,
Chanel
, 8.

⁴
“little prisoner”:
Hadrich,
Coco Chanel
, 28.

⁵
“concerned with independence”:
Hadrich,
Coco Chanel
, 33.

⁶
“I—who never told the truth”:
Masden,
Chanel
, 4.

⁷
“mind was full of fabulations”:
Masden,
Chanel
, 19.

⁸
“I invited the chambermaid”:
Hadrich,
Coco Chanel
, 65.

⁹
“reading cheap novels”:
Masden,
Chanel
, 40.

¹⁰
“didn’t know anything”:
Masden,
Chanel
, 39.

¹¹
“Forgive me”:
Hadrich,
Coco Chanel
, 75–79.

¹²
“I was just a kid”:
Hadrich,
Coco Chanel
, 78.

¹³
“It was very complicated”:
Hadrich,
Coco Chanel
, 79–80.

¹⁴
“Two gentlemen”:
“Fashioning the Modern Woman: The Art of Couturiere, 1919–1939,” The Museum at FIT, exhibition pamphlet, February 10, 2004, to April 10, 2004.

C
HAPTER
14: A
N
A
THLETIC
K
IND OF
G
IRL

¹
The feminine aesthetic:
Caroline Rennolds Milbank,
New York Fashion: The Evolution of American Style
(New York: Abrams, 1989), 35–45.

²
the daily torment:
Kate Mulvey,
Decades of Beauty: The Changing Image of Women, 1890s–1990s
(New York: Checkmark Books, 1998), 41.

³
English magazine correspondent:
Helene E. Roberts, “The Exquisite Slave: The Role of Clothes in the Making of the Victorian Woman,”
Signs: Journal of Women in Culture and Society
2, no. 3 (Spring 1977): 561. The case study is drawn from Victorian England but is representative of corseting in the United States.

⁴
study of fifty women:
Roberts, “The Exquisite Slave,” 561–62.

⁵
“ever present monitor”:
Roberts, “The Exquisite Slave,” 564–65.

⁶
“No one but a woman”:
Roberts, “The Exquisite Slave,” 557.

⁷
“Take what precautions”:
Roberts, “The Exquisite Slave,” 556.

⁸
J. Marion Sims:
Charles Sellers,
Market Revolution: Jacksonian America, 1815–1846
(New York: Oxford University Press, 1991), 256–57.