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23
Ingram’s Milkwood Cream:
Peiss,
Hope in a Jar
, 155–56.
24
industry analysts claimed:
Peiss,
Hope in a Jar
, 123–24, 168–73, 186, 190; Vincent Vinikas,
Soft Soap, Hard Sell
, 59.
25
“appearances count”:
Rob Schorman,
Selling Style: Clothing and Social Change at the Turn of the Century
(Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2003), 137.
26
“innocent yet men talked”:
Peiss,
Hope in a Jar
, 155.
27
Dorothy Dix warning:
Robert S. Lynd and Helen Merrell Lynd,
Middletown: A Study in Modern American Culture
(New York: Harcourt, Brace and Company, 1929), 162
28
“dresses girls wear”:
Lynd and Lynd,
Middletown
, 162
29
budget of $1,363:
Lynd and Lynd,
Middletown
, 163.
30
Lynds recognized:
Lynd and Lynd,
Middletown
, 164–65.

C
HAPTER
20: P
APA
, W
HAT
I
S
B
EER
?

1
“Intriguingly risqué”:
Film Review of
Flaming Youth
, undated [ca. 1923], Margaret Herrick Library, Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences, Los Angeles, Colleen Moore Scrapbook #2.
2
“the way Scott Fitzgerald writes”:
New York Exhibitors’ Trade Review, December 1, 1923, Colleen Moore Scrapbook #2.
3
“so carried away”:
Colleen Moore,
Silent Star
(Garden City, New York: Doubleday, 1968), 16–18.
4
Lucky for Kathleen Morrison:
Moore,
Silent Star
, 11–18.
5
“Dear baby”:
Moore,
Silent Star
, 24–25.
6
“gained a new movie star”:
Moore,
Silent Star
, 26; “ ‘The Close-Up’: Colleen Moore,” undated clipping [ca. 1927], source unknown, Colleen Moore Clippings File, Margaret Herrick Library, Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences, Beverly Hills [hereafter CM Clippings].
7
standing five feet three and three-quarter inches:
Biographical information, Goldwyn Pictures Corporation of New York, August 11, 1921, CM Clippings.
8
“Papa, what is beer?”:
Moore,
Silent Star
, 43.
9
motley assortment of characters:
Moore,
Silent Star
, 50.
10
“I was the spark”:
“Colleen Moore: The Original Flapper in Bel-Air,”
Architectural Digest
(April 1996): 216–21, 294.

C
HAPTER
21: O
H
, L
ITTLE
G
IRL
, N
EVER
G
ROW
U
P

1
first two decades:
On early film, see Robert Sklar,
Movie-Made America: A Cultural History of American Movies
(New York: Random House, 1975).
2
The Birth of a Nation: Larry May,
Screening Out the Past: The Birth of Mass Culture and the Motion Picture Industry
(Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1980), 76.
3
“taint of scandal”:
May,
Screening Out the Past
, 75–76.
4
“a great beauty doctor”:
May,
Screening Out the Past
, 75.
5
Early movies:
Leslie Fishbein, “The Demise of the Cult of True Womanhood in Early American Film, 1900–1930,”
Journal of Popular Film and Television
12, no. 2 (Summer 1984): 68.
6
Linda Arvidson Griffith:
Mary P. Ryan, “The Projection of a New Womanhood: The Movie Moderns in the 1920s,” in Jean E. Friedman and William G. Shade, eds.,
Our American Sisters: Women in American Life and Thought
(Lexington, Mass.: D. C. Heath, 1976), 502.
7
Irving Thalberg:
May,
Screening Out the Past
, 200.
8
Mary Pickford:
May,
Screening Out the Past
, 125–26.
9
Samuel Goldwyn:
May,
Screening Out the Past
, 171.

C
HAPTER
22: T
HE
K
IND OF
G
IRL THE
F
ELLOWS
W
ANT

1
“define the title”:
Sara Ross, “Banking the Flames of Youth: The Hollywood Flapper, 1920–1930,” unpublished PhD, dissertation, University of Wisconsin–Madison, 2000, 48.
2
“wickedest face”:
Mary P. Ryan, “The Projection of a New Womanhood: The Movie Moderns in the 1920s,” in Jean E. Friedman and William G. Shade, eds.,
Our American Sisters: Women in American Life and Thought
(Lexington, Mass.: D. C. Heath, 1976), 502.
3
“apostle of domesticity”:
Leslie Fishbein, “The Demise of the Cult of True Womanhood in Early American Film, 1900–1930,”
Journal of Popular Film and Television
12, no. 2 (Summer 1984): 67–68.
4
The Flapper: Ross, “Banking the Flames of Youth,” 66.
5
“looks the part”:
Untitled photo caption,
Photoplay Magazine
(Chicago), March 1924, Colleen Moore Scrapbook #2.
6
“very apotheosis”:
“Daily Movie Review,”
Muskegon
(Mich.)
Chronicle
, January 21, 1924, Colleen Moore Scrapbook #2.
7
“brilliant young flapper”:
“Player with ‘Sex Appeal’ Is Like a Rocket,” Unknown Source (New Orleans), June 15, 1924, Colleen Moore Scrapbook #11.
8
“kind of girl the fellows want”:
“How Girls Should Act Told by Screen Star,”
Screen News
, Sacramento, March 8, 1924, Colleen Moore Scrapbook #2.
9
“It’s such fun”:
“ ‘I Love to Ask My Husband for Money,’ Says Colleen Moore,”
Movie Weekly
, undated, Colleen Moore Scrapbook #11.
10
“Nobody wanted me”:
David Stein,
Clara Bow: Runnin’ Wild
(New York: Doubleday, 1988), 5.
11
Sands Street in Brooklyn:
Stein,
Clara Bow: Runnin’ Wild
, 8.
12
“I have known hunger”:
Stein,
Clara Bow: Runnin’ Wild
, 11.
13
“worst-lookin’ kid”:
Stein,
Clara Bow: Runnin’ Wild
, 11–12.
14
Bennett would live to eat his words:
On Clara Bow’s early years in film, see Stein,
Clara Bow: Runnin’ Wild.
15
“the only time”:
Colleen Moore,
Silent Star
(New York: Doubleday, 1968), 147–48.
16
“We
all
loved her”:
Stein,
Clara Bow: Runnin’ Wild
, 50.
17
“Golly, Mr. Schulberg”:
Budd Schulberg,
Moving Pictures: Memories of a Hollywood Prince
(New York: Stein and Day, 1981), 157–66.
18
“I liked her”:
Stein,
Clara Bow: Runnin’ Wild
, 43.
19
“an easy winner”:
Schulberg,
Moving Pictures
, 158.
20
Sam Jaffe:
Stein,
Clara Bow: Runnin’ Wild
, 51.
21
easy to dismiss:
Jeanine Basinger,
Silent Stars
(New York: Knopf, 1999), 411–50.
22
“She has eyes”:
Stein,
Clara Bow: Runnin’ Wild
, 55.
23
Clarence Badger:
Stein,
Clara Bow: Runnin’ Wild
, 83.
24
“It, hell”:
Stein,
Clara Bow: Runnin’ Wild
, 81.
25
$5,000 per week:
Stein,
Clara Bow: Runnin’ Wild
, 71.

C
HAPTER
23: A
NOTHER
P
ETULANT
W
AY TO
P
ASS THE
T
IME

1
“drink and fuck”:
Ann Douglas,
Terrible Honesty: Mongrel Manhattan in the 1920s
(New York: Farrar, Straus, and Giroux, 1995), 48.
2
“modest 10 a year”:
Louise Brooks to Tom Dardis, October 26, 1977, Louise Brooks Vertical File, Margaret Herrick Library, Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences, Beverly Hills [hereafter LB Vertical File].
3
“either a fool”:
Barry Paris,
Louise Brooks: A Biography
(New York: Knopf, 1989), 5.
4
“fourteen-room gray frame”:
Louise Brooks,
Lulu in Hollywood
(New York: Knopf, 1982), 9.
5
“ ‘How dare she?’ ”:
Paris,
Louise Brooks
, 89.
6
Mr. Flowers:
Louise Brooks to Tom Dardis, November 14, 1977, LB Vertical File.
7
“first curious raptures”:
Paris,
Louise Brooks
, 4.
8
“Now, dear”:
Brooks,
Lulu in Hollywood
, 7.
9
“bespectacled housewife”:
Paris,
Louise Brooks
, 28–31.
10
“Even in the ballet”:
Brooks,
Lulu in Hollywood
, 9.
11
“my Kansas accent”:
Brooks,
Lulu in Hollywood
, 10–14.
12
“very flirty in the hotels”:
Paris,
Louise Brooks
, 53–54.
BOOK: Flapper
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