Flapper (49 page)

²⁹
“socialized into an average”:
Loren H. B. Knox, “Our Lost Individuality,”
Atlantic Monthly
(Dec. 1909), 820.

³⁰
“torches of freedom”:
Stewart Ewen,
Captains of Consciousness: Advertising and the Social Roots of the Consumer Culture
, rev. ed. 2001 (New York: 1976), 160–61.

³¹
prominent advertising guru:
Ewen,
Captains of Consciousness
, 31.

C
HAPTER
17: W
ITHOUT
I
MAGINATION
, N
O
W
ANTS

¹
“Fisher Body Girl”:
Roland Marchand,
Advertising the American Dream: Making Way for Modernity, 1920–1940
(Berkeley, Calif.: University of California Press, 1985), 180.

²
curious publishing phenomena:
Richard M. Fried, “Introduction,” in Bruce Barton,
The Man Nobody Knows
, rev. ed. (Chicago: I.R. Dee, 2000; Indianapolis: Bobbs-Merrill, 1925), vii–x.

³
he urged readers:
T. J. Jackson Lears, “From Salvation to Self-Realization: Advertising and the Therapeutic Roots of the Consumer Culture, 1880–1930,” in T. J. Jackson Lears and Richard Wightman Fox,
The Culture of Consumption: Critical Essays in American History, 1880–1980
(New York: Pantheon Books, 1983), 32.

⁴
“the great advertiser”:
Barton,
The Man Nobody Knows
, 60, 65–72.

⁵
As recently as the 1890s:
Stephen Fox,
The Mirror Makers: A History of American Advertising and Its Creators
(New York: Morrow, 1984), chap. 1.

⁶
“goods must be moved”:
Susan Strasser,
Satisfaction Guaranteed: The Making of the American Mass Market
(New York: Pantheon Books, 1989), 22–25.

⁷
“Without imagination”: William Leach,
Land of Desire: Merchants, Power and the Rise of a New American Culture
(New York: Pantheon Books, 1993), 36–37.

⁸
Nashville Ad Club:
Strasser,
Satisfaction Guaranteed
, 27.

⁹
typical advertising expert:
Rob Schorman,
Selling Style: Clothing and Social Change at the Turn of the Century
(Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2003), 144.

¹⁰
Helen Woodward:
Stewart Ewen,
Captains of Consciousness: Advertising and the Social Roots of the Consumer Culture
, rev. ed. 2001 (New York: McGraw-Hill, 1976), 86.

¹¹
“feel life intensely”: Lears, “From Salvation to Self-Realization,” 15. Italics added for emphasis.

¹²
“let yourself go”:
Robert S. Lynd and Helen Merrell Lynd,
Middletown: A Study in Modern American Culture
(New York: Harcourt, Brace and Company, 1929), 265.

¹³
Denys Thompson:
Ewen,
Captains of Consciousness
, 87.

¹⁴
“Joan Crawford Hats”:
Stella Blum, ed.,
Everyday Fashions of the Twenties: As Pictures in Sears and Other Catalogs
(New York: Dover Publications, 1981), 95, 127.

¹⁵
American Tobacco Company:
Strasser,
Satisfaction Guaranteed
, 47.

¹⁶
grocers in Chicago:
L. R. Geissler, “Association-Reactions Applied to Ideas of Commercial Brands of Familiar Articles,”
Journal of Applied Psychology
1 (September 1917): 218.

¹⁷
invention of modern photography:
Neil Harris, “Iconography and Intellectual History: The Halftone Effect,” in Neil Harris,
Cultural Excursions: Marketing Appetites and Cultural Tastes in Modern America
(Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1990), 304–17.

¹⁸
new printing techniques:
Richard Ohmann, “Where Did Mass Culture Come From?: The Case for Magazines,”
Berkshire Review
16 (1981): 99–100.

¹⁹
Laura Ingalls Wilder:
Ellen Gruber Garvey,
The Adman in the Parlor: Magazines and the Gendering of Consumer Culture, 1880s to 1910s
(New York: Oxford University Press, 1996), 21.

²⁰
remote mountain towns:
Edward L. Ayers,
The Promise of the New South: Life After Reconstruction
(New York: Oxford University Press, 1992), 99–100.

²¹
Artemas Ward:
Leach,
Land of Desire
, 43–45.

²²
annual consumer advertising:
Vincent Vinikas,
Soft Soap, Hard Sell: American Hygiene in an Age of Advertisement
(Ames, Iowa: Iowa State University Press, 1992), 34.

²³
magazine circulation:
Vinikas,
Soft Soap, Hard Sell
, 9–13; Richard Ohmann, “Where Did Mass Culture Come From?” 85–90. The most popular magazines reached between 10 percent and 50 percent of middle-class homes, but only 5 percent of working-class homes.

²⁴
one-third of all magazine ad revenues:
Mary Ellen Waller-Zuckerman, “ ‘Old Homes, in a City of Perpetual Change’: Women’s Magazines, 1890–1916,”
Business History Review
63, no. 4 (Winter 1989): 726–35; Vinikas,
Soft Soap, Hard Sell
, 98.

C
HAPTER
18: 10,000,000 F
EMMES
F
ATALES

¹
“10,000,000 housewives”:
Raye Virginia Allen,
Gordon Conway: Fashioning a New Woman
(Austin, Tex.: University of Texas Press, 1997), ix.

²
“as graceful as a fawn”:
Allen,
Gordon Conway
, 20.

³
recorded her thoughts:
Allen,
Gordon Conway
, 23.

⁴
John Held:
see Shelley Armitage,
John Held, Jr.: Illustrator of the Jazz Age
(Syracuse, N.Y.: Syracuse University Press, 1987).

⁵
“no method”:
Armitage,
John Held
, 19.

⁶
“two kinds of crackers”:
Margaret A. Lowe, “From Robust Appetites to Calorie Counting: The Emergence of Dieting Among Smith College Students in the 1920s,”
Journal of Women’s History
7, no. 4 (Winter 1995): 39–40.

⁷
“Don’t consider it necessary”:
Lowe, “From Robust Appetites to Calorie Counting,” 40.

⁸
TO DIET OR NOT:
Lowe, “From Robust Appetites to Calorie Counting,” 36.

⁹
“most of the Negro girls”: New Yorker
, December 12, 1925, 51.

¹⁰
“The entertainer there”: New Yorker
, December 12, 1925, 52.

¹¹
“the REAL Charleston”: New Yorker
, December 26, 1925, 32–33.

¹²
The same message:
Grace Elizabeth Hale, “ ‘For Colored’ and ‘For White’: Segregating Consumption in the South,” in Jane Dailey, Glenda Elizabeth Gilmore, and Bryant Simon, eds.,
Jumpin’ Jim Crow: Southern Politics from Civil War to Civil Rights
(Princeton: Princeton University Press, 2000), 162–82; David Nasaw,
Going Out: The Rise and Fall of Public Amusements
(New York: Basic Books, 1993), 93, 80–95.

C
HAPTER
19: A
PPEARANCES
C
OUNT

¹
seconded by Walter Lippmann:
Stuart Ewen,
PR!: A Social History of Spin
(New York: Basic Books, 1996), 65–75, 106–08.

²
CPI: Ewen, PR!
, 106–08; David M. Kennedy,
Over Here: The First World War and American Society
(New York: Oxford University Press, 1980), 59–78.

³
Typical CPI posters:
Ewen,
PR!
, 115–17.

⁴
“power of propaganda”:
Ewen,
PR!
, 131.

⁵
George Phelps:
Stewart Ewen,
Captains of Consciousness: Advertising and the Social Roots of the Consumer Culture
, rev. ed. 2001 (New York: McGraw-Hill, 1976), 83.

⁶
Ivy Lee:
Ewen,
PR!
, 132.

⁷
“Mass psychology”:
Ewen,
Captains of Consciousness
, 83–84.

⁸
“governed by reason”:
Ewen,
PR!
, 138.

⁹
“Critical eyes”:
Roland Marchand,
Advertising the American Dream: Making Way for Modernity, 1920–1940
(Berkeley, Calif.: University of California Press, 1985), 213.

¹⁰
“It ruins romance”:
Vincent Vinikas,
Soft Soap, Hard Sell: American Hygiene
in an Age of Advertisement
(Ames, Iowa: Iowa State University Press, 1992), 32.

¹¹
“You will be amazed”:
Ewen,
Captains of Consciousness
, 38.

¹²
“Once a bridesmaid”:
Ewen,
Captains of Consciousness
, 44.

¹³
“A few years ago”:
Vinikas,
Soft Soap, Hard Sell
, 28–30.

¹⁴
annual sales of toiletries:
Vinikas,
Soft Soap, Hard Sell
, xii; Kathy Peiss,
Hope in a Jar: The Making of America’s Beauty Culture
(New York: Metropolitan Books, 1998), 97.

¹⁵
Magazine ads:
Peiss,
Hope in a Jar
, 142, 184.

¹⁶
cloudy representations:
Peiss,
Hope in a Jar
, 45.

¹⁷
Hangtown Gals:
Peiss,
Hope in a Jar
, 27.

¹⁸
“a perfectly transparent character”:
Karen Halttunen,
Confidence Men and Painted Women: A Study of Middle-Class Culture in America, 1836–1870
(New Haven: Yale University Press, 1982), 52.

¹⁹
“the skin’s power”:
Halttunen,
Confidence Men and Painted Women
, 63, 88.

²⁰
“The mask of fashion”:
Halttunen,
Confidence Men and Painted Women
, 66.

²¹
“as others see you”:
Peiss,
Hope in a Jar
, 144.

²²
Vogue’s Book of Beauty: Peiss,
Hope in a Jar
, 155–56.