Shopgirls (36 page)

  
9
.  Richard S. Lambert,
The Universal Provider: A Study of William Whiteley and the Rise of the London Department Store
, London: Harrap, 1938, pp.152–3; see also Richard Patterson, ‘The Cost of Living in 1888’, The Victorian Web,
www.victorianweb.org/economics/wages4.html
(accessed 25 March 2014).

10
.  ‘Why is Whiteley’s so often burned down?’,
The Pall Mall Gazette
, 16 August 1887.

11
.  Holcombe,
Victorian Ladies at Work
, p.113.

12
.  Philip Christopher Hoffman,
They Also Serve: The Story of the Shop Worker
, London: Porcupine Press, 1949, p.24.

13
.  Bondfield,
A Life’s Work
, p.25.

14.  ‘Disgraceful Affair at Cardiff’,
The Drapers Record
, 10 January 1887, p.421.

15
.  Lambert,
The Universal Provider
, p.75.

16
.  Holcombe,
Victorian Ladies at Work
, p.114.

17
.  Henry Mayhew,
The Shops and Companies of London and the Trades and Manufactories of Great Britain
, London: 1865, p.5.

18
.  Bondfield,
A Life’s Work
, p.62; also cited in Holcombe,
Victorian Ladies at Work
, p.109.

19
.  ‘Women Who Work – Behind a Counter’,
Cassell’s Magazine
, vol. 9, November 1873, p.349.

20
.  Mark Patton,
Science, Politics, and Business in the Work of Sir John Lubbock: A Man of Universal Mind
, Aldershot: Ashgate, 2007; R.J. Pumphrey, ‘The Forgotten Man: Sir John Lubbock, F.R.S.’,
Notes and Records of the Royal Society of London
, vol. 13, no. 1, June 1958, pp.49–58; Ursula Lubbock Grant Duff,
The Life-work of Lord Avebury (Sir John Lubbock), 1834 –1913
, London: Watts and Co., 1924.

21
.  Letter to the editor, ‘The Shop Hours Regulation Bill’,
The Spectator
, 26 July 1873, p.13 (a response to this letter identifies Boucherett as the author).

22
.  Letter to the editor,
The Spectator
, 26 July 1873, p.13. See also ‘The Nine Hours Bill and the Shop Hours Regulation Bill’,
Englishwoman’s Review
, 1873, pp.209–12.

23
.  Holcombe,
Victorian Ladies at Work
, p.125.

24
.  Dr Arthur Edis, ‘Slavery in the West-End’, Letter to the Editor,
The Times
, 7 November 1878, p.9; Mrs Strange Butson, ‘The Standing Evil – A plea for shopgirls’,
The Girl’s Own Paper
, vol. 1, 1880, p.612.

25
.  ‘Lecture at National Health Society on London Shopwomen – Letter to Dr Edis’,
House and Home
, 29 March 1879, p.10.

26
.  Joseph Chitty and John Mounteney Lely,
The Statutes of Practical Utility, 1235–1895
, London: Sweet and Maxwell, 1902, p.809.

27
.  Thomas Sutherst,
Death and Disease Behind the Counter
, London: Kegan Paul, Trench and Co., 1884, pp.20–22.

28
.  Ibid., pp.135–6.

29
.  Select Committee on the Shop Hours Regulation Bill, Parliamentary Papers, vol. IXX, 1886, p.102.

30
.  Richard Foster,
F. Cape & Co. of St Ebbe’s Street, Oxford
, Oxford: Oxford City and County Museum, 1973 [not paginated].

31
.  Mrs Loftie,
Social Twitters
, London: Macmillan and Co., 1879, p.144.

32
.  
Social Notes
, 6 April 1878, p.93.

33
.  Jane Rendell, ‘“Industrious Females” and “Professional Beauties”, Or, Fine Articles for Sale in the Burlington Arcade’, in Iain Borden et al. (eds.),
Strangely Familiar: Narratives of Architecture in the City
, London: Routledge, 1996, pp.32–6.

34
.  Ibid.

35
.  Amanda Wilkinson, ‘Women and Occupations in the Census of England and Wales: 1851–1901’, unpub. Ph.D. thesis, University of Essex, 2012.

36
.  Ibid.

37
.  
Reynolds’s Newspaper
, issue 79, 15 February 1852. With thanks to Amanda Wilkinson.

38
.  Sir William Acton,
Prostitution: Its Moral, Social and Sanitary Aspects
, London: J. Churchill, 1857, p.64.

39
.  William Tait,
Magdalenism: An Inquiry into the Extent, Causes and Consequences of Prostitution in Edinburgh
, Edinburgh: 1840, p.146.

40
.  ‘The Great Social Question Revived’,
The Morning Post
, 11 January 1859, p.5.

41
.  Judith Walkowitz,
Prostitution and Victorian Society
, Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1980.

42
.  
Manchester Times
, 20 August 1887, p.16. With thanks to Amanda Wilkinson.

43
.  ‘The Black Flag Hoisted in Regent Street’,
The Pall Mall Gazette
, 8 July 1887.

44
.  ‘Intemperance and Immorality’, Letter to the Editor,
Reynolds’s Newspaper
, 26 September 1886, p.2. With thanks to Amanda Wilkinson.

  
1
.  ‘The Whiteley Tragedy’,
The Daily Chronicle
, 28 January 1907.

  
2
.  Linda Stratmann,
Whiteley’s Folly: The Life and Death of a Salesman
, London: The History Press, 2004, pp.109–117.

  
3
.  Royal Commission on the Ancient and Historic Monuments of Scotland,
http://canmore.rcahms.gov.uk/en/site/115649/digital_images/edinburgh+47+48+49+50+51+52+princes+street+jenners/?show=all
(accessed 21 February 2014).

  
4
.  Anthony Trollope,
London Tradesmen
, London: E. Mathews & Marrot, 1928, reprinted from
The Pall Mall Gazette
, 1880.

  
5
.  Zuzanna Shonfield,
The Precariously Privileged: a professional family in Victorian London
, Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1987, p.44.

  
6
.  Osbert Lancaster,
All From Memory
, Cambridge, Mass.: John Murray, 1953, pp.62–9.

  
7
.  Henry Mayhew,
London Labour and the London Poor
,
Volume 1: The London Street Folk
, London: 1861–2 (a portion duplicate of 1851 edition), index for first 5 vols., pp.478–9.

  
8
.  John Thomson and Adolphe Smith,
Street Life in London
, London: S. Low, Marston, Searle and Rivington, 1877, auctioned 7 November 2001, see
lib-161.lse.ac.uk/archives/digital/street_life_in_london.pdf
. See
Telegraph
, 6 November 2013, p.21, or
www.telegraph.co.uk/culture/art/artsales/10428053/The-world-of-Charles-Dickens-lives-on-in-Street-Life-in-London.html
(accessed 3 March 2014).

  
9
.  ‘Resting-Places for Women Wayfarers’,
Women’s Gazette
and
Weekly News
, 3 July 1878, p.100.

10
.  Harriet Jordan, ‘Public Parks, 1885–1914’,
Garden History
, vol. 22, no. 3, 1994, p.89.

11
.  Bill Lancaster,
The Department Store: A Social History
, London: Leicester University Press, 1995, pp.25–8.

12
.  ‘Paddington Licensing Meeting’,
Bayswater Chronicle
, 23 March 1872; see extended discussion in Erica Rappaport, ‘“The Halls of Temptation”: Gender, Politics and the Construction of the Department Store in Late Victorian London’,
Journal of British Studies
, vol. 35, no. 1, January 1996, pp.67–75.

13
.  ‘Lunch with the Linendrapers’,
The Graphic
, 3 August 1872, p.98.

14
.  Eliza Linton, ‘The Girl of the Period’,
Saturday Review
, 14 March 1868, pp.339–40.

15
.  Eliza Linton, ‘The Philosophy of Shopping’,
Saturday Review
, 16 October 1875, pp.488–9.

16
.  William Ablett,
Reminiscences of an Old Draper
, London: S. Low, Marston, Searle and Rivington, 1876, p.36.

17
.  Charles Cavers,
Hades! The Ladies! Being Extracts from the Diary of a Draper, Charles Cavers, Esq.
, London: Gurney & Jackson, 1933.

18
.  Lancaster,
The Department Store
, p.185.

19
.  
London Standard
, 21 January 1885.

20
.  Answers section,
The Girl’s Own Paper
, December 1886, p.192.

21
.  Judith Coffin,
The Politics of Women’s Work: The Paris Garment Trades
, 1750 –1915, Chichester: Princeton University Press, 1996, p.89.

22
.  ‘Women Who Work Behind a Counter’,
Cassell’s Magazine
, vol. 9, 1874, p.351.

23
.  J.E. Davidson,
What Our Daughters Can Do for Themselves
, London: Smith, Elder & Co., 1894, pp.49–51.

24
.  Sanders,
Consuming Fantasies
, p.28.

25
.  ‘Women Who Work Behind a Counter’,
Cassell’s Magazine
, vol. 9, 1874, p.350.

26
.  ‘Crib-hunting’,
Cassell’s Saturday Journal
, 2 April 1910.

27
.  Anthea Jarvis,
Liverpool Fashion, Its Makers and Wearers: The Dressmaking Trade in Liverpool, 1830 –1940
, Liverpool: Merseyside County Museums, 1981, p.34.

28
.  Lucy Duff Gordon,
Discretions and Indiscretions
, London: Jarrolds, 1932, p.67.

29
.  For extended discussion, see Joel Kaplan and Sheila Stowell,
Theatre and Fashion: Oscar Wilde to the Suffragettes
, Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1994, p.116.

30
.  
Bystander
, 27 July 1904, pp.437–8.

31
.  Duff Gordon,
Discretions and Indiscretions
, p.77.

32
.  ‘Rev. J. Campbell’s Libel on the West-End Trade’,
The Drapers Record
, 9 January 1909, pp.96–7.

33
.  Lancaster,
The Department Store
, p.181.

34
.  Sanders,
Consuming Fantasies
, p.159.

35
.  ‘Careers for Women’,
Forget-Me-Not
, 12 December 1903, p.661.

36
.  
Forget-Me-Not
, 23 August 1902, p.368.

37
.  ‘Life in the Shop: A Word on Living in. No Married Man Need Apply, by Our Special Commissioner’,
The Daily Chronicle
, 24 February 1898.

38
.  Dora Day column,
The Shop Assistant: A Monthly Journal of Shop Life, Social Advancement and Reform
, vol. 2., no. 13, July 1897, p.7.

39
.  Agnes Repplier, ‘English Railway Fiction’, in
Points of View
, Boston: Houghton and Mifflin, 1891, pp.209–10.

40
.  Arthur Applin,
Shop Girls: A Novel with Purpose
, London: Mills & Boon, 1914.

41
.  Francis Bacon, ‘Of Studies’, in Michael Kiernan (ed.),
The Essayes or Counsels, Civill and Morall
, Oxford: Clarendon, 1985, p.153.

42
.  Lady Laura Ridding. ‘What Should Women Read?’,
Woman at Home
, 37, 1896, p.29. Cited in Kate Flint,
The Woman Reader
, Oxford: Clarendon, 1993, p.52.

43
.  Geo Humphrey, ‘The Reading of the Working Classes in the Nineteenth Century’,
Nineteenth Century
, vol. 33, April 1893 pp.692–3.

44
.  For extended discussion, see Sanders,
Consuming Fantasies
, Chapter 4.

45
.  Dr Mary Wood-Allen,
What a Young Woman Ought to Know
, Philadelphia: Vir Publishing Co., 1905.

46
.  M. J. Loftie,
Social Twitters
, London: Macmillan and Co., 1879, p.44.

47
.  Sanders,
Consuming Fantasies
, footnote 28, p.241.

48
.  William Archer,
The Theatrical ‘World’ of 1896
, London: Walter Scott, 1897.

49
.  Mario Borsa,
The English Stage of To-Day
, London: John Lane, 1908, p.5.

50
.  Sanders,
Consuming Fantasies
, p.182.

51
.  
Old Bailey Proceedings Online
(
www.oldbaileyonline.org
, version 7.0, accessed 21 February 2014), Whiteley inquest, 18 March 1907 (t19070318-31), testimony of Mrs Elizabeth Lloyd, Horace Rayner’s wife’s aunt.

52
.  Ibid., testimony of George McConnell, messenger to an umbrella-maker.

53
.  Ibid., testimony of Dr Herbert Ernest Batten, casualty surgeon at St Mary’s Hospital.

  
1
.  Margaret Bondfield,
A Life’s Work
, London: Hutchinson & Co., 1948, p.28.

  
2
.  Hilda Martindale,
From One Generation to Another, 1839– 1944: A Book of Memoirs
, London: George Allen & Unwin, 1944, pp.34–5.

  
3
.  Bondfield,
A Life’s Work
, p.32.

  
4
.  ‘Life in the Shop: Crib Hunting. Extracts from an Assistant’s Diary, by Our Special Commissioner’,
The Daily Chronicle
, 10 February 1898.

  
5
.  Bondfield,
A Life’s Work
, p.63.

  
6
.  Grace Dare, ‘Our Women’s Page’,
The Shop Assistant
, August 1896, p.7.

  
7
.  ‘Life in the Shop: A Word on Living in. No Married Man Need Apply, by Our Special Commissioner’,
The Daily Chronicle
, 24 February 1898.

  
8
.  Ibid.

  
9
.  ‘Usdaw’s History’, Usdaw,
www.usdaw.org.uk/aboutus/usdawshistory.aspx
(accessed 20 March 2014).

10
.  
Fabian Tract No. 80
, London: The Fabian Society, 1897, pp.11–12.

11
.  Bondfield,
A Life’s Work
, p.29.

12
.  Ibid., p.51.