Shopgirls (39 page)

30
.  ‘Women’s Charter Falls By the Wayside’,
Guardian
, 3 September 1975, p.7.

31
.  Gordon Carr,
The Angry Brigade: The Cause and the Case
, London: Victor Gollancz, 1975.

32
.  Hulanicki,
From A to Biba
, p.120; Turner,
The Biba Experience
, pp.47–9.

33
.  Carr,
The Angry Brigade
, p.104.

34
.  Martin Bright, ‘Look Back in Anger’,
Observer
, 3 February 2002,
www.theguardian.com/theobserver/2002/feb/03/features.magazine27
(accessed 21 March 2014).

35
.  BBC: On This Day, 10 September 1973,
http://news.bbc.co.uk/onthisday/hi/dates/stories/september/10/newsid_3914000/3914415.stm
(accessed 21 March 2014).

36
.  ‘British Boutique Labels of the 1960s and 1970s: Bus Stop’, Candy Says,
www.candysays.co.uk/blogs/vintage-blog/6972642-british-boutique-labels-of-the-1960s-and-1970s-bus-stop
(accessed 21 March 2014); see also Lee Bender,
Bus Stop and the Influence of the 70s on Fashion Today
, London: A&C Black Visual Arts, 2010.

37
.  ‘House of Fraser: Brief Summary of Company History’, version 2, December 2011, University of Glasgow Archive Services.

38
.  Obituary of Josephine Esther Bruce’,
Independent
, 29 August 1994.

39
.  Personal communication with Stephen Bourne, nephew of Esther Bruce and historian of black British life, April 2014; see also John Rex and Sally Tomlinson,
Colonial Immigrants in a British City: A Class Analysis
, London, Routledge and Kegan Paul, 1979.

40
.  Susan Okokon,
Black Londoners: A History
, Stroud: The History Press, 2009.

41
.  Christopher Middleton, ‘The Changing face of Britain’s Arndale Centres’,
Guardian
, 4 April 2001.

42
.  Daniel Miller, Peter Jackson, Nigel Thrift, Beverley Holbrook and Michael Rowlands,
Shopping, Place and Identity
, London: Routledge, 1998, p.33.

43
.  Ibid., p.35.

44
.  Margaret Thatcher,
The Path to Power
, London: HarperCollins, 1995, p.5.

45
.  Penny Junor,
Margaret Thatcher: Wife, Mother, Politician
, London: Sidgwick and Jackson, 1984, p.44.

46
.  Margaret Thatcher Foundation, ‘Remarks visiting Brent Cross Shopping Centre’, 17 February 1978.

47
.  Thatcher,
The Path to Power
, p.4.

  
1
.  For extended discussion, see J.A.N. Bamfield,
Retail Futures 2018: Shop Numbers, Online and The High Street
, Nottingham: Centre for Retail Research, 2013.

  
2
.  Mary Portas, ‘The Portas Review: An independent review into the future of our high streets’, December 2011,
www.maryportas.com
(accessed February 2014); Bill Grimsey,
Sold Out
, Croydon: Filament Publishing, 2012; Rosamund Urwin, ‘How to get your PG tips’,
Evening Standard
(London), 27 February 2014.

  
3
.  British Retail Consortium,
Retail in Society: Britain’s Favourite Job
, November 2011, p.19.

  
4
.  UK Commission for Employment and Skills,
Working Futures 2012–1022
, Evidence Report 83, March 2014. See Table 4.2: Females. Occupational Categories.

  
5
.  
https://nationalcareersservice.direct.gov.uk/advice/planning/jobprofiles/Pages/salesassistant.aspx
(accessed 8 May 2014).

  
6
.  Jenny Shaw,
Shopping: Social and Cultural Perspectives
, London: Polity Press, 2010.

  
7
.  Daniel Miller,
A Theory of Shopping
, London: Polity Press, 1998.

  
8
.  Tim Walker, ‘We bought what we didn’t want’,
Independent
, 19 June 2009, p.32.

Ablett, William,
Reminiscences of an Old Draper
, London: S. Low, Marston, Searle & Rivington, 1876

Acton, Sir William,
Prostitution: Its Moral, Social and Sanitary Aspects
, London: J. Churchill, 1857

Applin, Arthur,
Shop Girls: A Novel with Purpose
, London: Mills & Boon, 1914

Ashby, Vera May, born 1911, audio interview, Witham Oral Histories, recorded by Janet Gyford, University of Essex, 5 May 1981, Tape 46

Bender, Lee,
Bus Stop and the Influence of the 70s on Fashion Today
, London: A&C Black Visual Arts, 2010

Bondfield, Margaret,
Socialism for Shop Assistants
, London: Clarion Press, 1909

Bondfield, Margaret,
A Life’s Work
, London: Hutchinson & Co., 1948

Borsa, Mario,
The English Stage of To-day
, London: John Lane, 1908

Boucherett, Jesse, ‘On the Obstacles to the Employment of Women’,
English Woman’s Journal
, vol. 4, February 1860, pp. 54–60

Boucherett, Jesse, ‘Association for Promoting the Employment of Women’,
English Woman’s Journal
, vol. 4, September 1859

Boucherett, Jesse, ‘Letter to the Editor’,
The Spectator
, 26 July 1873

Boucherett, Jesse, ‘The Nine Hours Bill and the Shop Hours Regulation Bill’,
The Englishwoman’s Review
, 1873, pp. 209–12

Bouchier, Chili,
Shooting Star
, London: Atlantis, 1995

Bullock, Thomas Austin,
Bradshaw’s Illustrated Guide to Manchester
, Manchester: Bradshaw & Blacklock, 1857

Briggs, Asa,
Friends of the People: The Centenary History of Lewis’s
, [no publication place]: Batsford, 1956

Butson, Mrs Strange, ‘The Standing Evil – A Plea for Shopgirls’,
The Girl’s Own Paper
, Vol 1, 1880, p. 612

Cavers, Charles,
Hades! The Ladies!
, London: Gurney & Jackson, 1933

Chitty, Joseph and Lely, J.M.,
The Statutes of Practical Utility, 1235–1895
, London: Sweet and Maxwell, 1902

Copeman, John, and sons,
Copeman’s of Norwich
, Norwich: Jarrold, 1946

Corina, Maurice,
Fine Silks and Oak Counters: Debenhams, 1778-1978
, London: Hutchinson, 1978

Costard, Betty Yvonne, audio interview, Imperial War Museum, 1989, cat. no. 10879

Dam, H.J.W.,
The Shop Girl. A Musical Comedy
, London: 1894

Darlington, Thomas (ed.),
Memoir of Emerson Muschamp Bainbridge of Newcastle-on-Tyne
, Edinburgh: R&R Clark, 1893

Davidson, J.E.,
What Our Daughters Can Do For Themselves, A Handbook of Women’s Employments
, London: Smith, Elder & Co., 1894

Dickens, Charles,
Dickens’ Dictionary of London
, London: 1879

Duff Gordon, Lucy,
Discretions and Indiscretions
, London: Jarrolds, 1932

Foster, Richard,
F. Cape & Co. of St Ebbe’s Street, Oxford
, Oxford: Oxford City and County Museum, 1973

Goldsman, E.N.,
Show Window Backgrounds
, London: Blandford Press, 1930

Grace, Doris and Annie, audio interviews by Daniel Swan, University of Portsmouth, 2012

Grierson, Ruby, dir.,
They Also Serve
, British Film Institute, London: Realist Film Unit, 1940

Grogan, Mercy,
How Women May Earn a Living
, London: Cassell, Petter, 1880

Hall, Owen,
The Girl from Kay’s. A New and Original Musical Play
(lyrics by Adrian Ross and Claude Aveling), London: Chappell & Co., 1903

Hallsworth, Joseph and Davies, Rhys,
Life of Shop Assistants
, Manchester, 1910

Hamilton, Cicely,
Diana of Dobson’s. A Romantic Comedy in Four Acts
, London: Century, 1909

Hamilton, Mary Agnes,
Margaret Bondfield
, London: Leonard Parsons, 1924

Harrods,
A Story of British Achievement, 1849–1949
, London: Harrods, 1949

HMSO,
How Britain Was Fed in Wartime
, London, 1946

Hoffman, Phillip Christopher,
They Also Serve: The Story of the Shop Worker
, London: Porcupine Press, 1949

Holyoake, George Jacob,
Self-Help by the People: History of the Rochdale Equitable Pioneers, Part 1, 1844–1857
, London, Swan Sonnenschein & Co, 1907

Howard, Delisia,
In Biba
, London: Hazard Books, 2004

Hudson, Derek (ed.),
Munby: Man of Two Worlds: The Life and Diaries of Arthur J. Munby, 1828–1910
, London: John Murray, 1972

Hulanicki, Barbara,
From A to Biba: The Autobiography of Barbara Hulanicki
, London: V&A Publishing, 1983

Jefferys, James B.,
Retail Trading in Britain, 1850–1950
, Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1954

Jennings, Humphrey and Watt, Harry, dirs.,
London Can Take It!
, London: G.P.O. Film Unit, 1940

Jeune, Lady, ‘The Ethics of Shopping’,
Fortnightly Review
, vol. 63, 1895, p.123

Lancaster, Osbert,
All From Memory
, Cambridge: Mass.: John Murray, 1953

Lewis, John Spedan,
Partnership for All
, London: Kerr-Cross Publishing Co., 1948

Linton, Eliza, ‘The Girl of the Period’,
The Saturday Review
, 14 March 1868, pp.339–40

Linton, Eliza, ‘The Philosophy of Shopping’,
The Saturday Review
, 16 October 1875, pp.488–9

Llewelyn Davies, Margaret (ed.),
Life As We Have Known It
, London: Hogarth Press, 1931

Loftie, M. J.,
Social Twitters
, London: Macmillan and Co., 1879

Malvery, Olive Christian,
A Year and a Day
, London: Hutchinson, 1912

Martindale, Hilda,
From One Generation to Another, 1839–1944: A Book of Memoirs
, London: George Allen & Unwin, 1944

Mayhew, Henry,
London Labour and the London Poor. Volume 1: The London Street Folk
, London: [no named publisher], 1851

Mayhew, Henry,
The Shops and Companies of London and the Trades and Manufactories of Great Britain
, London: [no named publisher], 1865

Melly, Diana,
Take a Girl Like Me
, London: Chatto & Windus, 2005

Meyer, Mrs Carl and Black, Clementina,
Makers of Our Clothes: A Case for Trade Boards, Being the Result of a Year’s Investigation into the Work of Women in London in the Tailoring, Dressmaking and Underclothing Trades
, London: Duckworth and Co., 1909

Millward, Michael and Coe, Brian, compiled by,
Victorian Townscape: The Work of Samuel Smith
, London: Ward Lock, 1974

Newby, Eric,
Something Wholesale: My life and Times in the Rag Trade
, London: Pan, 1985.

Newby, Eric,
A Traveller’s Life
, London: Harper Press, 2010

Obituary of Jesse Boucherett,
The Times
, 21 October 1905

Olivia [surname unknown],
Olivia’s Shopping and How She Does It: A Prejudiced Guide to the London Shops
, London: Gay and Bird, 1906

Pankhurst, Christabel,
Unshackled: The Story of How We Won the Vote
, London: Hutchinson, 1959

Pearce, Charles E.,
The Soul of a Shopgirl
, London: Aldine serial novels, 1915

Philipps, Leonora,
Dictionary of Employments Open to Women
, London: Women’s Institute, 1898

Rotha, Paul, dir.,
The Fourth Estate
, London: Realist Film Unit, 1940

Quant, Mary,
Quant by Quant
, London: Pan Books Ltd, 1967

Smith, Thomas Davidson, unpublished autobiography, Lancaster, 1902–3

Snowden, Philip,
The Living Wage
, London: Hodder and Stoughton, 1912

Solomon, Flora and Litvinoff, Barnet,
Baku to Baker Street: The Memoirs of Flora Solomon
, London: Collins, 1984

Sutherst, Thomas,
Death and Disease Behind the Counter
, London: Kegan Paul, Trench & Co., 1884

Tait, William,
Magdalenism: An Inquiry into the Extent, Causes and Consequences of Prostitution in Edinburgh
, Edinburgh: 1840

Tallis, John,
London Street Views
, London: London Topographical Society, 1969

Thatcher, Margaret,
The Path to Power
, London: HarperCollins, 1995

Thomson, John and Smith, Adolphe,
Street Life in London
, London: S. Low, Marston, Searle and Rivington, 1877

Trollope, Anthony,
London Tradesmen
, London: E. Mathews & Marrot, 1928, (reprinted from
The Pall Mall Gazette
)

Wey, Francis,
Les Anglais Chez Eux (A Frenchman Sees the English in the Fifties)
, London: Sidgwick & Jackson, 1935

Wood-Allen, Dr Mary,
What a Young Woman Ought to Know
, Philadelphia: Vir Publishing Co.,1905

The Daily Chronicle

Daily Express

Daily Mail

The Daily News

The Drapers Record

English Woman’s Journal

Forget-Me-Not

The Pall Mall Gazette

The Shop Assistant

The Spectator

Store Management

The Times

T. P.’s and Cassell’s Weekly

Votes for Women

Women’s Industrial News

Co-operative News

The Gazette
(John Lewis)

Harrodian Gazette

Harrods Store Archive, Harrods, London

House of Fraser Archive, University of Glasgow Archive Services

John Lewis Partnership Archives Collection, Heritage Centre, Cookham

Marks and Spencer Company Archive, University of Leeds

The Sainsbury Archive, Museum of London Docklands