Shopgirls (38 page)

54
.  Margaret Bondfield,
A Life’s Work
, London: Hutchinson & Co., 1948, ch.10.

55
.  Lilian Wyles,
A Woman at Scotland Yard
, London: Faber & Faber, 1952.

  
1
.  Deborah Thom,
Nice Girls and Rude Girls: Women Workers in World War One
, Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1998, pp.188–93.

  
2
.  Olivia [surname unknown],
Olivia’s Shopping and How She Does It. A Prejudiced Guide to the London Shops
, London: Gay and Bird, 1906, p.40.

  
3
.  Philip Christopher Hoffman,
They Also Serve: The Story of the Shop Worker
, London: Porcupine Press, 1949, p.171.

  
4
.  Ibid., pp.175–6.

  
5
.  ‘Shop Girls’ Strike’,
Daily Mail
, 27 April 1920, p.5.

  
6
.  Peter Cox,
Spedan’s Partnership: The Story of John Lewis and Waitrose
, London: Labatie Books, 2010, pp.67–8.

  
7
.  Hoffman,
They Also Serve
, pp.187; ‘Shop Girls’ Strike’,
Daily Mail
, 27 April 1920, p.5.

  
8
.  Hoffman,
They Also Serve
, p.187.

  
9
.  Ibid., pp.192–3.

10
.  John Spedan Lewis,
Partnership for All
, London: Kerr Cross Publishing Co., 1948, p.45.

11
.  Ibid., p.30.

12
.  Cox,
Spedan’s Partnership
, pp.70–75.

13
.  Chili Bouchier,
Shooting Star
, London: Atlantis, 1995, p.35.

14
.  Ibid., p.38.

15
.  Ibid, p.45.

16
.  Flora Solomon and Barnet Litvinoff,
Baku to Baker Street: The Memoirs of Flora Soloman
, London: Collins, 1984, p.152.

17
.  Helen Chislett,
Marks in Time: 125 Years of Marks & Spencer
, London: Weidenfeld & Nicolson, 2009, pp.9–12.

18
.  Photographs of Grainger Market, 1906; Lowestoft, 1910; Staff, Broad Street, Reading, 1912, Marks & Spencer Company Archive.

19
.  Paul Seaton,
A Sixpenny Romance: Celebrating a Century of Value at Woolworths
, London: 3D and 6D Pictures Ltd, 2009.

20
.  Solomon and Litvinoff,
Baku to Baker Street
, p.151.

21
.  ‘Report for 1917’, in
Liverpool University Settlement Reports (1908–1918)
, Archive of the University of Liverpool.

22
.  
Daily Mail
, ‘General Electric Stand 69’, in
Ideal Labour-Saving Home
, 1920, p.vi.

23
.  Vera May Ashby, born 1911, audio interview,
Witham Oral Histories
, recorded by Janet Gyford, Essex University, 5 May 1981, Tape 46.

24
.  Susan Frances Lomax, ‘The Department Store & Modern Spectacle 1880–1940’, Ph.D. thesis, University of Essex, 2005, p.56.

25
.  James B. Jefferys,
Retail Trading in Britain
, Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1954, pp.50–70.

26
.  
Store Management
, April 1937, p.209.

27
.  P. Scott & J. Walker, ‘Advertising, Promotion, and the Competitive Advantage of Interwar British Department Stores’,
Economic History Review
, vol. 63, no. 4, 2010, p.2.

28
.  Arnold Bennett letter, 13 March 1929, Harrods Archive, Press Cuttings vol. 156.

29
.  Bill Lancaster,
The Department Store: A Social History
, London: Leicester University Press, 1995, p.96.

30
.  Lomax, ‘The Department Store’, pp.58–65.

31
.  Solomon and Litvinoff,
Baku to Baker Street
, p.156.

32
.  E.B. from Leeds, ‘Progress 1926–1936’,
Sparks Magazine
, Christmas 1936.

33
.  Solomon and Litvinoff,
Baku to Baker Street
, p.157.

34
.  Michael Weatherburn, Imperial College Doctoral researcher, specialising in work efficiency and incentive methods in industrial Britain: research conversation with Lauren Bennie; Laurel Graham, ‘Lillian Gilbreth and the Mental Revolution at Macy’s, 1925–28’,
Journal of Management History
, vol. 6, issue 7, 2000, p.285.

35
.  ‘A Guiding Principle in Store Management’,
Marks & Spencer Weekly Bulletin
, 4 February 1928.

36
.  Solomon and Litvinoff,
Baku to Baker Street
, p.162.

37
.  E.B. from Leeds, ‘Progress 1926–1936’,
Sparks Magazine
, Christmas 1936.

38
.  Marks & Spencer,
Staff Management News
, vol. 1, June 1938.

39
.  Marks & Spencer, ‘Brighter Staff Regulations’,
Sparks Magazine
, Summer 1937.

40
.  Private collection of Jemma Jupp, granddaughter of Ethel May Jupp.

  
1
.  Board of Trade reports, 1937, p.10, cited in Ina Zweiniger-Bargielowska,
Austerity in Britain: Rationing, Controls, and Consumption, 1939–1955
, Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2000, pp.13–14.

  
2
.  Paul Rotha, dir.
The Fourth Estate
, London: Realist Film Unit, 1940.

  
3
.  Doris, audio interview by Daniel Swan, University of Portsmouth, 2012.

  
4
.  Winston Churchill speech to House of Commons, 18 June 1940.

  
5
.  Betty Yvonne Costard, audio interview, Imperial War Museum 1989, cat. no. 10879.

  
6
.  Beth Lloyd,
De Gruchy’s: The History of Jersey’s Department Store of Distinction
, London: Hale, 1982, p.119.

  
7
.  Ruby Grierson, dir.,
They Also Serve
, London: Realist Film unit, 1940.

  
8
.  SA/WAR/2/IMA/1/7: Rationing notice, 1940, The Sainsbury Archive, Museum of London Docklands.

  
9
.  Sainsbury’s Archives Virtual Museum, 2001,
http://sainsburys.lgfl.org.uk/ration_reg.htm
(accessed 2 April 2014).

10
.  HMSO,
How Britain Was Fed in Wartime
, London, 1946.

11
.  Norman Longmate,
How We Lived Then: A History of Everyday Life during the Second World War
, London: Pimlico, 2002, pp.153–5.

12
.  SA/WAR/2/1/5: Letter from Alan J. Sainsbury to Mrs E. Sheppard, 25th April 1941, The Sainsbury Archive, Museum of London Docklands.

13
.  Grace, audio interview by Daniel Swan, University of Portsmouth, 2012.

14
.  Doris, audio interview by Daniel Swan, University of Portsmouth, 2012.

15
.  Annie, audio interview by Daniel Swan, University of Portsmouth, 2012.

16
.  Humphrey Jennings and Harry Watt, dirs,
London Can Take It!
, London, G.P.O, Fim Unit, 1940.

17
.  Ministry of Information Second World War Official Collection.

18
.  
The Gazette
, John Lewis Partnership Archives Collection, cited in Peter Cox,
Spedan’s Partnership: The Story of John Lewis and Waitrose
, London: Labatie Books, 2010, ch. 11.

19
.  
The Gazette
, quoted in Cox,
Spedan’s Partnership
, p.127.

20
.  ‘Establishing a Temporary Store’,
www.woolworthsmuseum.co.uk/1940s-defiance.htm
, Woolworths Virtual Museum, created by Paul Seaton.

21
.  Mark Roodhouse,
Black Market Britain 1939 –55
, Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2013, p.80.

22
.  Michael Moss and Alison Turton,
A Legend of Retailing – House of Fraser
, London: Weidenfeld & Nicolson, 1989, p.164.

23
.  Roodhouse,
Black Market Britain
, p.94.

24
.  Eric Newby,
A Traveller’s Life
, London: Harper Press, 2010, p.43.

25
.  Featherstone study cited in Roodhouse,
Black Market Britain
, p.99.

26
.  HMSO,
How Britain Was Fed in Wartime
, p.5. Statistics apply to 1944.

27
.  Grace, audio interview by Daniel Swan, University of Portsmouth, 2012.

28
.  Lloyd,
De Gruchy’s
, p.126.

29
.  HMSO,
How Britain was Fed in Wartime
.

30
.  
Self-Service: The Journal for the Progressive Retailer
, vol. 1, no. 2, December 1951, pp.8–10.

31
.  Penny Summerfield,
Women Workers in the Second World War: Production and Patriarchy in Conflict
, London: Routledge, 1989, p.31.

32
.  MOL to MOF, 6 June 1942, cited in Summerfield, ibid., p.113.

33
.  ‘Word War II Air Raid’,
Lewisham War Memorials
, Local History and Archives Centre, Lewisham,
http://lewishamwarmemorials.wikidot.com
, accessed 30 March 2014.

34
.  Helen Chislett,
Marks in Time: 125 Years of Marks & Spencer
, London: Weidenfeld & Nicolson, 2009, p.179.

35
.  Grace Golden,
A West End Street Scene
, 1945, catalogue ref. INF 3/1738, National Archives.

36
.  Cox,
Spedan’s Partnership
, p.138.

  
1
.  Mary Quant,
Quant by Quant
, London: Pan Books, 1967, pp.46–8; Richard Lester,
Boutique London: A History: King’s Road to Carnaby Street
, London: ACC Editions, 2010, pp.10–11.

  
2
.  Cited in Alwyn Turner,
The Biba Experience
, Woodbridge: Antique Collectors Club,
c
.2004, p.9.

  
3
.  Quant,
Quant by Quant
, pp.46–8.

  
4
.  Marnie Fogg,
Boutique: A ’60s Cultural Phenomenon
, London: Mitchell Beazley, 2003, p.26.

  
5
.  Peter Stanford, Interview with Diana Melly,
Independent on Sunday
, 30 October 2005.

  
6
.  ‘The British Boutique Boom! Part 1’,
Rave
, September 1965.

  
7
.  Millicent Bultitude,
Get Dressed: A Useful Guide to London’s Boutiques
, The Garnstone Press, 1966.

  
8
.  Kate Finnigan, Interview with Celia Birtwell,
Telegraph
, 21 August 2011.

  
9
.  Nancy R. Ross, ‘Britain’s Fashion Revolution’,
Spokesman Review
, 27 May 1966.

10
.  Veronica Horwell, Obituary of John Stephen,
Guardian
, 9 February 2004; Clare Lomas, ‘“Men Don’t Wear Velvet You Know!” Fashionable Gay Masculinity and the Shopping Experience’,
Oral History
, vol. 35, issue 1, 2007, pp.85–6.

11
.  Turner,
The Biba Experience
, p.12.

12
.  Barbara Hulanicki,
From A to Biba: The Autobiography of Barbara Hulanicki
, London: V&A Publishing, 1983, p.79; Turner,
The Biba Experience
, p.16.

13
.  Turner,
The Biba Experience
, p.11.

14
.  Hulanicki,
From A to Biba
, p.78.

15
.  Turner,
The Biba Experience
, pp.23–4; Interview with Rosie Young,
Marshwood Vale Magazine
, 31 January 2013,
www.marshwoodvale.com/people/articles/people/rosie-young
(accessed 21 March 2014); Fogg,
Boutique
, p.179.

16
.  Peter Stanford, Interview with Diana Melly,
Independent on Sunday
, 30 October 2005.

17
.  Fogg,
Boutique
, p.47; British Style Genius,
www.bbc.co.uk/britishstylegenius/archive.shtml
(accessed 21 March 2014); The Look,
http://rockpopfashion.com/blog/?p=43
(accessed 21 March 2014).

18
.  Manchester Beat,
www.manchesterbeat.com/shops/clothes/index.php
(accessed 21 March 2014); Fogg,
Boutique
, p.126.

19
.  Tony Greenway, ‘Pollyanna’s Rita Britton talks to
Yorkshire Life
about Barnsley roots’,
Yorkshire Life
, 12 December 2010,
http://www.yorkshirelife.co.uk/people/celebrity-interviews/pollyanna_s_rita_britton_talks_to_yorkshire_life_about_barnsley_roots_1_1631706
(accessed 21 March 2014).

20
.  Pollyanna,
www.pollyanna.com/page/about-us
(accessed 21 March 2014).

21
.  Interview with Vanessa Denza, Victoria and Albert Museum,
http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/i/vanessa-denza-mbe/
(accessed 21 March 2014).

22
.  Fogg,
Boutique
, p.22; Quant,
Quant by Quant
, p.80.

23
.  Brian Braithwaite,
Women’s Magazines
, London: Peter Owen, 1995, p.88.

24
.  Ibid.

25
.  Olive Robinson and John Wallace, ‘Part-time Employment and Low Pay in Retail Distribution in Britain’,
Industrial Relations Journal
, vol. 5, issue 1, 1974, p.39.

26
.  Ibid.

27
.  Kira Cochrane, ‘Forty Years of Women’s Liberation’,
Guardian
, 26 February 2010,
http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2010/feb/26/forty-years-womens-liberation
(accessed 21 March 2014). See also Michelene Wandor’s collection of interviews with those present:
Once a Feminist: Stories of a Generation
, London: Virago, 1990.

28
.  Michelene Wandor, ‘Interview with Audrey Wise’, in her
Once a Feminist: Stories of a Generation
, London: Virago, 1990, pp.200–205.

29
.  Ibid., p.210. See also Julie Langdon and Hilary Wainwright, Obituary of Audrey Wise,
Guardian
, 5 September 2000.