True Summit (35 page)

risk as addiction of,
60

sacrifice made by,
224
–25

snowblindness of,
117

summit climb of Herzog and,
13
–16,
17
–19,
26
,
92
–94,
95
,
97
,
212
–25

summit photos and,
136
,
173
,
180
,
218
–20

Terray's relationship with,
48
,
54
–56,
58
,
65
,
68
,
72
,
73
–74,
78
,
170
,
189
,
190
–91

women and,
164
–65

written out of Annapurna story,
137
,
152
,
185

Lambert, Raymond,
15
,
159
,
175

Legion of Honor,
126
,
159
,
181
,
210

Les Houches,
59
,
84

Lété forest,
124
–27

Libération,
181
,
185
,
216

Lindbergh, Anne Morrow,
85

Logan, Mount,
63

Longs Peak,
23
,
63

Lyon,
81

McKinley, Mount,
64
,
148
,
188
,
199
,
201

maggots,
131
,
134

Magnone, Guido,
67
–68,
194

Makalu,
65
,
78
,
143
,
144
,
145
,
176
,
193
,
195
,
198
,
200
,
205

Mallory, George Leigh,
29
,
115
,
120

Malraux, André,
141

Man Without a Head, The,
128

Maroon Bells,
39

Marseille,
33
,
35
,
59
,
126

Marseille, Archbishop of,
139

Martinetti, Marc,
203

Matterhorn,
29
,
37
,
164

Maxiton,
120
–21

Mazeaud, Pierre,
185

Messner, Reinhold,
141
,
223

Michel, Georges,
51
–52

Miristi Khola,
14
,
17
,
71
,
72
,
78
,
122

Moine,
55

Monde, Le,
179
,
180
,
181
,
182
–85,
187
,
217
,
218

monsoon,
14
,
18
,
53
,
80
,
90
,
92
,
105
,
122

Montagne et Alpinisme, La,
169
–70,
182
,
201

Montagnes,
53
,
181
,
217
,
220

Mont-Blanc, Jardin Féerique
(Rébuffat),
41
,
147

Mont Blanc tunnel,
140

morphine,
121
,
123
,
125
,
128
,
132
,
175

Morzine,
24

“motors,”
143

Moulin, Henry,
34

Mountain,
149

mountain climbing:

antiromantic approach to,
148
–51

birthplace of,
34

distinction between guides and amateurs in,
29
–30

equipment for,
96
–97,
119
–20

expedition leaders and,
29

martial philosophy of,
37
,
38
,
39
,
83
,
124
,
147

nationalities and,
16
–17,
30
–31,
150
,
216

Rébuffat's philosophy of,
37
,
38
,
39
,
41
,
83
,
147

specialized skills in,
203

turning back from summit while,
223

see also
guides

“mountain ranging,”
195

“Mountains of the Moon,”
162

Mount Everest Committee,
29

Mummery, Alfred,
16
,
29
–30

Mussolini, Benito,
31

Nanda Devi,
16

Nanga Parbat,
16
,
23
,
45
,
222

NASA,
147

Nepal,
45
,
131
,
187
,
196

Nepal, Maharajah of,
46
,
130
,
131

Neuilly,
21
,
133
,
138

New Delhi,
43

New Hampshire,
67

New York,
67
,
148

nicotine,
120

Nilgiris,
71
,
72
,
123
,
196
,
198

Nimier, Roger,
206
,
209

Northwest Spur,
72
,
73
–76,
79
,
174
,
177

Norton, E. F.,
29

novocaine,
21
,
121
,
125
,
129

Noyelle, Francis de,
22
,
100
,
112
,
125
,
129
,
142

Obaldia, René de,
186

Odell, Noel,
115

Ofexport,
140

On Snow and Rock
(Rébuffat),
41
,
150

Orly airport,
21
,
42
,
137

Other Annapurna, The, see Autre Annapurna, L'

Oudot, Jacques,
71
,
99
,
103
,
112
,
117
,
119
,
121
,
122
,
123

Herzog and Lachenal's amputations made by,
21
,
125
,
128
–30,
132

oxygen, bottled,
96
–97,
120

oxygen deprivation,
120

Pacific Peak,
39

Pansy,
88
,
96
,
97
,
116
,
183
,
192

Paris,
21
,
30
,
31
,
82
,
100
,
136
–37,
187
,
189

Paris-Match,
21
,
127
,
136
,
137
,
138
,
204

Patagonia,
65
,
194
,
199

Patey, Tom,
149
–51

Payot, Elisabeth,
165
,
168
,
169
,
218

Payot, Jean-Pierre,
160
,
161
,
165
,
168
–69

Peace Corps,
141

penicillin,
122
,
128

Peruvian Andes,
65
,
195
,
196

Petit Dru,
28
,
37
,
203

Peuterey Ridge,
83

pied d'éléphant,
96

Piz Badile,
37
,
65
,
68
,
165
,
198

Poincenot, Jacques,
194
,
196

Pointe de Clairy,
55

porters,
16
,
20
,
21
,
46
,
49
,
53
,
72
–73,
79
,
123
,
124
,
125

Potet, Frédéric,
180
–81

préalpes,
57
,
203

predawn starts,
96

Puiseux, Jean,
144
,
145

Pyrenees,
142

Rébuffat, Françoise,
41
–44,
115
,
131
,
140
,
146
,
151
–52,
154
,
167
,
184
,
206
,
217
,
219

marriage of Rébuffat and,
42

Rébuffat's letters to,
26
,
43
–44,
48
,
123
,
127
,
179

unpublished memoir of,
42
,
155
–57

Rébuffat, Frédérique,
42

Rébuffat, Gaston,
22
,
23
,
27
,
33
–38,
46
,
47
,
55
–56,
65
,
77
,
78
,
80
,
82
,
83
,
85
,
86
,
88
,
90
,
91
,
92
–93,
136
,
146
–57,
167
,
169
,
176
,
179
,
183
,
197
,
204
,
210
,
217
,
224

background of,
33
–34

biography of,
see Gaston Rébuffat: Une Vie pour la Montagne

bitterness toward Herzog felt by,
76
,
106
,
126
,
131
,
151
–52,
220
–21

character of,
35
,
41
,
49
,
151

death of,
41
,
42
,
154
–57

in descent of Annapurna,
19
–20,
95
–100,
102
,
105
,
106
,
107
–18

disenchantment felt by,
146
,
179

as guide,
30
,
34
–35,
36
,
42
,
59
,
147
,
148

homesickness suffered by,
49
,
53

in Jeunesse et Montagne,
35
–37

Lachenal's relationship with,
34
,
49
,
51
–52

Legion of Honor and,
126
,
159

mountain climbing experience and ability of,
16
–17,
28
,
29
,
34
–38,
51
–52,
59

mountaineering philosophy of,
37
,
38
,
39
,
41
,
83
,
147
,
149
–50

as mountaineering photographer and cinematographer,
37
,
39
,
41
,
42
,
147
–48,
150
,
180

on oath of obedience,
32
–33,
41
,
43

Patey on,
149
–50

physical appearance of,
34
,
35
,
42

post-Annapurna climbing of,
146
–47,
154
,
165

private notes and commentaries of,
26
,
32
–33,
41
,
152
–53,
221

published works of,
see Apprenti Montagnard, L'; Entre Terre et Ciel; Horizons Gagnés, Les; Mont-Blanc, Jardin Féerique; On Snow and Rock; Starlight and Storm

in return from Annapurna,
119
,
121
,
123
,
126
,
133

route up Annapurna found by,
75
–76

Sherpas' nickname for,
87

six classic Alpine north faces climbed by,
37
–38,
39
,
146

snowblindness suffered by,
20
,
111
,
112
,
116
,
121

summit photos and,
219
–20

Terray's relationship with,
34
,
35
–37,
49
,
58
–59,
92
,
146

World War II experience of,
30
,
184

Regards vers l'Annapurna
(Herzog and Ichac),
81

Résistance,
30
,
84

“Road Not Taken, The” (Frost),
105

Roberts, David,
22
–27,
38
–41,
62
–65

early mountaineering reading by,
22
–23,
38
,
39
,
62

Lachenal and Terray idolized by Jensen and,
64
–65,
66
–67,
188
,
190
,
201
–2

mountain climbing of,
23
,
38
–39,
62
–64,
67
,
148
,
188
,
200
–202

at Terray's childhood home,
206
–11

Roc des Bergers,
144

Rock and Ice,
148
–49

Rocky Mountain Rescue Group,
63

Rocky Mountains,
23

see also
Colorado Rockies

Rosa, Monte,
141
,
165
–67,
170

Ruth Glacier,
199

Ruwenzori (“Mountains of the Moon”),
162
,
190

“sahibs,”
49

Saint Elias, Mount,
198

Saint Elias Range,
63