True Summit (36 page)

Saint-Exupéry, Antoine de,
147

Salle Pleyel,
136
,
137

Samivel,
100

Sarki,
14
,
92
,
93
,
96
,
116
–17,
178
,
183

Sarthou, Sylvain,
200

Schatz, Marcel,
16
,
20
,
71
,
72
,
77
,
90
,
95
–96,
97
,
108
,
114
,
115
–16,
117
,
122
,
130
,
142
,
143
,
144
–45,
153
,
193

Annapurna role of,
78
,
79

physics career of,
78

Second World War,
see
World War II

Section des Eclaireurs et Skieurs (S.E.S.),
204

septicemia,
122
,
128

seracs,
176
,
197

Seven Years in Tibet
(Harrer),
31

Shawangunk Cliffs,
67
,
148

Sherpas,
14
,
20
,
21
,
46
,
47
–48,
49
,
71
,
74
,
76
,
79
,
87
,
88
,
90
–91,
93
,
96
,
108
,
116
–17,
120
,
122
,
127
,
153
,
178
,
183
,
187
,
192

Shishapangma,
45

Sickle,
14
,
20
,
89
,
90
,
92
,
93
,
96
,
107
,
112
,
116

Sierra Club,
23

Sierra Nevada,
64

Simond, Alexis,
165

Simond, Claudius,
124

sirdar,
14

sleeping pills,
120

“Slouching Toward Everest” (Roberts),
24

“sluggards,”
77
,
91

smoking,
120

snowblindness,
114

of Lachenal,
117

of Rébuffat,
20
,
111
,
112
,
116
,
121

of Terray,
20
,
111
,
112
,
116
,
117
,
121

Soray,
196

Soubis, Jacques,
201

Sport et Vie,
85

Stanley Glacier,
163

Starlight and Storm
(
Etoiles et Tempêtes
) (Rébuffat),
39
–40,
41
,
51
–52,
62
,
63
,
64
,
66
,
146
,
147
,
148

stimulants,
120
–21

“supermen,”
88

Swiss Alpine Club,
216

Swiss mountain climbers,
216

Switzerland,
38
,
54
,
65
,
140

“talus piles,”
23

Taulliraju,
65
,
196

Tenmile Range,
39

Tenzing Norgay,
45
,
159

Terray, Lionel,
22
,
23
,
32
,
38
,
46
,
49
,
53
,
56
–60,
83
,
85
,
86
–87,
92
–93,
136
,
148
,
159
,
160
,
180
,
183
,
188
,
190
,
192
–211,
218
,
222

altruistic deeds performed by,
87
,
90
–91,
105
–6,
113
,
195
,
224

autobiography of,
see Conquistadors of the Useless

background of,
56
–58

character of,
35
,
48
,
87

childhood home of,
206
–11

climbing accidents of,
197
,
199
–200

commemorative plaque for,
207

death of,
203
–4,
205
–6

deaths of climbing partners of,
193
–94,
196
,
197

in descent of Annapurna,
19
–21,
95
–100,
102
,
105
–18

in failed Northwest Spur attempt,
73
–75,
77

gear from fatal climb of,
210
–11

grave of,
209

as guide,
30
,
59
–60,
82

in Jeunesse et Montagne,
35
–37,
58

Lachenal's relationship with,
48
,
54
–56,
58
,
65
,
68
,
72
,
73
–74,
78
,
170
,
189
,
190
–91

Legion of Honor and,
159
,
181
,
210

mountain climbing experience and ability of,
16
–17,
28
,
29
,
35
–37,
57
–59,
65
,
66
,
67
–68,
72
,
80
,
142
,
144
,
202
–3,
224

Mount Huntington ascent of Roberts and Jensen questioned by,
202
,
204

physical appearance of,
57
–58,
61

porters' nickname for,
53

post-Annapurna climbing career of,
65
,
138
,
167
,
193
–200,
202
–3,
220

Rébuffat's relationship with,
34
,
35
–37,
49
,
58
–59,
92
,
146

reputation of,
206

in return from Annapurna,
119
,
121
,
123
–25,
133

snowblindness of,
20
,
111
,
112
,
116
,
117
,
121

strength of,
20
,
121

in World War II,
30
,
54
–55,
59
,
84
,
205
,
210

Terray, Marianne,
59
,
161
–62,
206
,
208
,
209
–10,
211

“tigers,”
78
,
198

Tilicho Col,
71

Tokositna Glacier,
201

Triton France,
140

Tukucha,
46
,
47
,
68
,
71
,
72

“uppers,”
120

Vallée Blanche,
25
,
168

Vercors,
203
,
204
–6,
211

verglas,
74

Veronica,
196

Vertical,
186
,
217

“
victoriste,
”
33

Voyager II,
147

Vulgarians,
148

Waddington, Mount,
63

Wales,
149

Walker Spur,
31
,
37
,
40
,
49
,
51
,
56
,
65
,
68
,
83
,
142
,
198
,
203

“walk-ups,”
38

Washburn, Bradford,
199
,
201
,
202
,
210

Washington, Mount,
67

Whillans, Don,
149

Who's Who in France,
85

Whymper, Edward,
29
,
61
,
189

Wickersham Wall,
64
,
148

willow wands,
174

World War II,
16
,
30
,
35
,
54
–55,
59
,
62
,
65
,
84
,
133
,
184
,
205
,
210

Youth and Mountains,
see
Jeunesse et Montagne

Simon & Schuster

Rockefeller Center

1230 Avenue of the Americas

New York, NY 10020

www.SimonandSchuster.com

Copyright © 2000 by David Roberts

All rights reserved, including the right of reproduction in whole or in part in any form.

First Touchstone Edition 2002

S
IMON
& S
CHUSTER
and colophon are registered trademarks of Simon & Schuster, Inc.

Designed by Edith Fowler

Map by Jeffrey L. Ward

The Library of Congress has cataloged the Simon & Schuster edition as follows:

Roberts, David, date.

True summit : what really happened on the legendary ascent of Annapurna / David Roberts.

p.   cm.

Includes index.

1. Mountaineering—Nepal—Annapurna. 2. Annapurna (Nepal)—Description and travel. 3. Herzog, Maurice, 1919– 4. Lachenal, Louis, 1921–1955. 5. Mountaineers—France—Biography. I. Title.

GV199.44.N462 A5664 2000

796.52'2'095496—dc21   00-027140

ISBN 0-684-86757-5

   0-7432-0327-5 (Pbk)

ISBN 13: 978-1-4767-3787-4 (eBook)

PHOTO CREDITS

Galen Rowell/Mountain Light:
p. 13

Dauphiné Libéré
:
p. 28

Collection Rébuffat:
pp. 45
,
70
,
135
,
192

Collection Ecole Nationale de Ski et d'Alpinisme:
pp. 95
,
158

Collection Lachenal:
pp. 119
,
212