Outlaw Marriages (34 page)

45
. Berson,
Jane Addams
, 112; Elshtain,
Jane Addams
, 213; Joslin,
Jane Addams
, 166.

46
. Berson,
Jane Addams
, 78–79.

47
. Ibid., 79–84.

48
. Ibid., 84–88, 90.

49
. Ibid., 98; Linn,
Jane Addams
, 345; Joslin,
Jane Addams
, 241.

50
. Berson,
Jane Addams
, 110–11; “Pioneer Patron,”
Chicago Tribune
, 20; Richards,
Superstars
, 112.

51
. Berson,
Jane Addams
, 109–10.

52
. Linn,
Jane Addams
, 390.

53
. Davis,
American Heroine
, 289.

54
. “Miss Mary Rozet Smith,”
New York Times
, 14; “Pioneer Patron,”
Chicago Tribune
, 20.

55
. Davis,
American Heroine
, 289.

56
. Elshtain,
Jane Addams
, 247–48.

57
. “Death Ends Career of Jane Addams,”
Baltimore Sun
, May 22, 1935, 1; “Death Takes Jane Addams,”
Boston Globe
, May 22, 1935, 1; “Founder of Hull House, Jane Addams, Succumbs,”
Los Angeles Times
, May 22, 1935, 1; “Jane Addams Dies in Her 75th Year,”
New York Times
, May 22, 1935, 1; “Jane Addams Dies; Won Wide Acclaim as Social Worker,”
Philadelphia Inquirer
, May 22, 1935, 1; “Jane Addams, Famous Social Worker, Dies,”
San Francisco Chronicle
, May 22, 1935, 1; “Jane Addams,”
Chicago Tribune
, 1; “Jane Addams, Peace Crusader, and Foe of Slums, Dead at 74,”
Washington Post
, May 23, 1935, 1.

1
. On Marbury's early years, see “Elisabeth Marbury Dead,”
Washington Post
, January 23, 1933, 3; “Elisabeth Marbury Dies in 77th Year,”
New York Times
, January 23, 1933, 14; Elisabeth Marbury,
My Crystal Ball
(New York: Boni and Liveright, 1923), 9–57. Marbury's parents were Francis F. Marbury and Elizabeth McCoun Marbury.

2
. Marbury,
My Crystal Ball
, 10, 12.

3
. Ibid., 13, 24.

4
. Nina Campbell and Caroline Seebohm,
Elsie de Wolfe: A Decorative Life
(New York: Panache, 1992), 30.

5
. On de Wolfe's early years, see “Lady Mendl Dies in France at 84,”
New York Times
, July 13, 1950, 25; Jane S. Smith,
Elsie de Wolfe: A Life in the High Style
(New
York: Atheneum, 1982), 5–16. De Wolfe's parents were Stephen de Wolfe and Georgiana Copeland de Wolfe.

6
. “Lady Mendl Dies,” 25; Smith,
Elsie de Wolfe
, 5–16.

7
. “Lady Mendl Dies,” 25.

8
. Marbury,
My Crystal Ball
, 57–58.

9
. Smith,
Elsie de Wolfe
, 29.

10
. Ibid., 12–13, 25.

11
. Ruby Ross Goodnow, “The Story of Elsie de Wolfe,”
Good Housekeeping
, June 1913, 762.

12
. Ibid.; Smith,
Elsie de Wolfe
, 38–39.

13
. Smith,
Elsie de Wolfe
, 49.

14
. Ibid., 57.

15
. Ibid.; “After the Matinee,”
Town Topics
, December 15, 1887.

16
. Smith,
Elsie de Wolfe
, 63.

17
. Ibid.

18
. Ibid.

19
. Alice-Leone Moats, “The Elsie Legend,”
Harper's Bazaar
, May 1949, 171.

20
. “‘The Other Girl' Scores,”
New York Times
, December 30, 1903, 2; Smith,
Elsie de Wolfe
, 90.

21
. Smith,
Elsie de Wolfe
, 96.

22
. Campbell and Seebohm,
Elsie de Wolfe
, 49.

23
. Penny Sparke,
Elsie de Wolfe: The Birth of Modern Interior Decoration
(New York: Acanthus, 2005), 38–39.

24
. Ibid., 39.

25
. Ibid., 41.

26
. Elsie de Wolfe,
The House in Good Taste
(New York: Century, 1913), 96; Goodnow, “Story of Elsie de Wolfe,” 764.

27
. “Can Women Appreciate a Club?”
Los Angeles Times
, April 14, 1907, G2; “Colony Club Finds Midsummer Pleasures in the City,”
New York Times
, July 7, 1907, X5; “New Club for Women,”
Washington Post
, March 12, 1907, 12.

28
. Sparke,
Elsie de Wolfe
, 45, 111.

29
. Ibid., 49.

30
. Ibid., 67, 75; “Mellody Farm,”
Harper's Bazaar
, August 1918, 34–35.

31
. Sparke,
Elsie de Wolfe
, 114.

32
. Ibid., 165–66.

33
. Ibid., 13.

34
. de Wolfe,
House
, 48.

35
. “American Homes,”
New York Times
, November 9, 1913, BR611.

36
. Smith,
Elsie de Wolfe
, 142–43, 166.

37
. Ibid., 197.

38
. Ibid., 135; Elsie de Wolfe, “What Every Woman Wants to Know,”
New York Times
, February 1, 1914, X11.

39
. Smith,
Elsie de Wolfe
, 114, 216.

40
. Ibid., 203–4.

41
.
Campbell and Seebohm,
Elsie de Wolfe
, 92.

42
. “Elisabeth Marbury Dead in New York,”
Boston Globe
, January 23, 1933, 15.

43
. Smith,
Elsie de Wolfe
, 193–94.

44
. Ibid., 194.

45
. Campbell and Seebohm,
Elsie de Wolfe
, 92.

46
. Smith,
Elsie de Wolfe
, 211.

47
. Ibid., 201–2.

48
. “Elisabeth Marbury Dead,” 15; “Smith's Nomination Sure,”
New York Times
, January 12, 1927, 1; “Trend to Roosevelt Strong,”
New York Times
, January 10, 1932, 1.

49
. Smith,
Elsie de Wolfe
, 223.

50
. Ibid., 222.

51
. Ibid., 223–24.

52
. Campbell and Seebohm,
Elsie de Wolfe
, 96–97.

53
. Ibid., 96.

54
. “Lady Mendl at Home,”
House and Garden
, May 1941, 50; Sparke,
Elsie de Wolfe
, 275–76.

55
. Smith,
Elsie de Wolfe
, 252.

56
. “Elisabeth Marbury Dies,” 14; “Elisabeth Marbury Dead,” 15; “Woman Stage Producer Dies,”
Los Angeles Times
, January 23, 1933, 2.

57
. “Lady Mendl at Home,” 50; Smith,
Elsie de Wolfe
, 288–91.

58
. Tony Duquette, “Elsie de Wolfe,”
Architectural Digest
, September 1996, 139.

59
. “Lady Mendl Dies,” 25; Sparke,
Elsie de Wolfe
, 270–72.

60
. Smith,
Elsie de Wolfe
, 304, 306, 308.

61
. Ibid., 324; “Lady Mendl Dies,” 25.

62
. Duquette, “Elsie de Wolfe,” 139; Smith,
Elsie de Wolfe
, 327.

63
. “Death Comes to Lady Mendl of Party Fame,”
Los Angeles Times
, July 13, 1950, 17; Hedda Hopper, “Gay Set Mourns Brilliant Hostess,”
Los Angeles Times
, July 13, 1950, 17; “Lady Mendl, 84, Noted Hostess, Dies in France,”
Chicago Tribune
, July 13, 1950, 18; “Lady Mendl Dies,” 25; “Lady Mendl, Ex-Actress, Dies in France,”
Washington Post
, July 13, 1950, B2; “Lady Mendl: International Hostess, Actress, Style Leader,”
Boston Globe
, July 13, 1950, 16.

1
. On Leyendecker's early life, see Laurence S. Cutler and Judy Goffman Cutler,
J. C. Leyendecker
(New York: Abrams, 2008), 19–36; “J. C. Leyendecker, Noted Artist, 77,”
New York Times
, July 26, 1951, 20; Michael Schau,
J. C. Leyendecker
(New York: Watson-Guptill, 1974), 14–27; Kent Steine and Frederic B. Taraba,
The J. C. Leyendecker Collection
(Portland, OR: Collectors Press, 1996), 6–8. Leyendecker's parents were Peter Leyendecker and Elizabeth Ortseifen Leyendecker.

2
. Schau,
Leyendecker
, 14.

3
. “Keeping Posted,”
Saturday Evening Post
, October 15, 1938, 108.

4
. Ibid.; “J. C. Leyendecker Dies at Age of 77,”
(New Rochelle, NY) Standard-Star
, July 26, 1951, 1; Carole Turbin, “Fashioning the American Man: The Arrow Collar Man, 1907–1931,”
Gender & History
14, no. 3 (November 2002), 474.

5
. On Beach's early years, see Cutler and Cutler,
Leyendecker
, 36–37; Schau,
Leyendecker
,
30, 32–33; Turbin, “Fashioning,” 475, 479.

6
. Cutler and Cutler,
Leyendecker
, 36–37; Schau,
Leyendecker
, 30, 32–33; Turbin, “Fashioning,” 475, 479.

7
. Cutler and Cutler,
Leyendecker
, 36–38; Schau,
Leyendecker
, 30, 32–33; Turbin, “Fashioning,” 475, 479.

8
.
The Century
, cover, August 1896.

9
. “Leyendecker Dies,”
Standard-Star
, 1.

10
. Schau,
Leyendecker
, 20–21.

11
. Ibid., 21.

12
. Ibid., 24.

13
. “Leyendecker Dies,”
Standard-Star
, 1.

14
. Cutler and Cutler,
Leyendecker
, 36.

15
. Ibid.

16
. Ibid.; Schau,
Leyendecker
, 30–32; Turbin, “Fashioning,” 475.

17
. Cutler and Cutler,
Leyendecker
, 36; Norman Rockwell,
My Adventures as an Illustrator
(New York: Abrams, 1988), 167.

18
. Cutler and Cutler,
Leyendecker
, 1, 36, 40; Gary Kriss, “The Father of the New Year's Baby,”
New York Times
, December 27, 1998, WE13; Rockwell,
My Adventures
, 168; Schau,
Leyendecker
, 18.

19
. Cutler and Cutler,
Leyendecker
, 36, 38.

20
. Ibid., 36; Virginia Clair, “Leyendecker Remembered as Perfectionist,” July 26, 1951,
Standard-Star
, 1.

21
. Rockwell,
My Adventures
, 167; Turbin, “Fashioning,” 470–91.

22
.
Collier's
, cover, September 6, 1902;
Collier's
, cover, June 4, 1904.

23
. Rockwell,
My Adventures
, 167.

24
. Ibid.; Clair, “Leyendecker Remembered,” 1; Emmanuel Cooper,
The Sexual Perspective: Homosexuality and Art in the Last 100 Years in the West
(New York: Routledge, 1986), 132; “Noted Artist,”
New York Times
, 20; Kriss, “Father,” WE13; Schau,
Leyendecker
, 25, 32–33; Steine and Taraba,
Leyendecker Collection
, 10.

25
. “The American Holiday,”
Saturday Evening Post
, February 21, 1903, 12; Clair, “Leyendecker Remembered,” 1; Cutler and Cutler,
Leyendecker
, 67; Schau,
Leyendecker
, 25; Steine and Taraba,
Leyendecker Collection
, 9.

26
.
Saturday Evening Post
, covers, November 30, 1912; July 6, 1918; May 31, 1919.

27
. Cutler and Cutler,
Leyendecker
, 67.

28
. Clair, “Leyendecker Remembered,” 1; “Noted Artist,”
New York Times
, 20; David Rowland, “Leyendecker: Sunlight and Stone,”
Saturday Evening Post
, May–June 1973, 56; Schau,
Leyendecker
, 25; Steine and Taraba,
Leyendecker Collection
, 10.

29
. Clair, “Leyendecker Remembered,” 1; Cooper,
Sexual Perspective
, 132; Rowland, “Leyendecker,” 56; Schau,
Leyendecker
, 25, 33, 45; Steine and Taraba,
Leyendecker Collection
, 10.

30
. Cutler and Cutler,
Leyendecker
, 40; Schau,
Leyendecker
, 39; Steine and Taraba,
Leyendecker Collection
, 8.

31
. Clair, “Leyendecker Remembered,” 1; Cutler and Cutler,
Leyendecker
, 35, 71–73.

32
. Cutler and Cutler,
Leyendecker
, 75; “Noted Artist,”
New York Times
, 20; Schau,
Leyendecker
, 23.

33
.
Schau,
Leyendecker
, 28.

34
. Ibid.; Turbin, “Fashioning,” 471–72.

35
. For reproductions of the 1922 image, see Cutler and Cutler,
Leyendecker
, cover and 78.

36
. For reproductions of the ads, see Cutler and Cutler,
Leyendecker
, 76, 99.

37
. On the Arrow Collar Man becoming the country's first male sex symbol, see Cutler and Cutler,
Leyendecker
, 73–74; Schau,
Leyendecker
, 30; Turbin, “Fashioning,” 471–75.

38
. Schau,
Leyendecker
, 30.

39
. On admirers not knowing that Beach was gay, see David B. Boyce, “Coded Desire in 1920s Advertising,”
Gay & Lesbian Review
7, no. 1 (Winter 2000): 26–32; Richard Martin, “Gay Blades: Homoerotic Content in J. C. Leyendecker's Gillette Advertising Images,”
Journal of American Culture
18, no. 2 (Summer 1995): 75–82.