Why Did the Chicken Cross the World? (46 page)

190
In June 1993, all nine
:
Church of the Lukumi Babalu Aye v. City of Hialeah
.

10. Sweater Girls of the Barnyard

192
Food grew so short in 1610
: Rachel Herrmann, “The ‘Tragicall Historie': Cannibalism and Abundance in Colonial Jamestown,”
William and Mary Quarterly
, 3rd ser., 68, no. 1 (January 2011).

192
In New England, where chickens arrived
: Keith W. F. Stavely and Kathleen Fitzgerald,
Northern Hospitality: Cooking by the Book in New England
(Amherst: University of Massachusetts Press, 2011), 185.

192
Grateful for the exotic
:
A. R. Hope Moncrieff,
The Heroes of Young America
(London: Stanford, 1877), 221.

193
On Winslow's farm, wild
: “Archaelogy of the Edward Winslow Site,”
http://www.plymoutharch.com/
.

193
“Seventeenth- and eighteenth-century”
: Andrew F. Smith, ed.,
The Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America
(Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2004), s.v. “Chicken Cookery.”

193
In 1692, after several
: Patricia A. Gibbs, “Slave Garden Plots and Poultry Yards,” Colonial Williamsburg, accessed March 21, 2014,
http://research.history.org/historical_research/research_themes/themeenslave/slavegardens.cfm
.

193
The chicken “is the only”
: Eugene Kusielewicz, Ludwik Krzyżanowski, “Julian Ursyn Niemcewicz's American Diary,”
The Polish Review
3 (Summer 1958): 102.

193
When Washington ordered
: “From George Washington to Anthony Whitting, 26 May 1793,” Washington Papers, Founders Online, accessed March 21, 2014,
http://founders.archives.gov/documents/Washington/05-12-02-0503
.

193
Virginia planter Landon Carter
: Psyche A. Williams-Forson,
Building Houses Out of Chicken Legs: Black Women, Food, and Power
(Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press, 2006), 16.

194
As early as 1665, Maryland
: James D. Rice,
Nature & History in the Potomac Country: From Hunter-Gatherers to the Age of Jefferson
(Baltimore: Johns Hopkins University Press, 2009), 136.

194
A century later
: James Mercer to Battaile Muse, April 3, 1779, Battaile Muse Papers, ed. John C. Fitzpatrick, William R Perkins Library, Duke University.

194
In one letter to his overseer
:
Philip D. Morgan,
Slave Counterpoint: Black Culture in the Eighteenth-Century Chesapeake and Lowcountry
(Chapel Hill: published for the Omohundro Institute of Early American History and Culture, Williamsburg, Virginia, by the University of North Carolina Press, 1998), 364.

194
In what likely was a typical
: “Economy,” Landscape of Slavery: Mulberry Row at Monticello, accessed March 21, 2014,
http://www.monticello.org/mulberry-row/topics/economy
.

194
Chickens and eggs were
: Gerald W. Gawalt, “Jefferson's Slaves: Crop Accounts at Monticello, 1805–1808,”
Journal of the AfroAmerican Historical and Genealogical Society
, Spring/Fall 1994, 19–20.

194
In 1728, a white owner named
: Morgan,
Slave Counterpoint
, 361.

194
“Adjoining their little habitations”
: John P. Hunter,
Link to the Past, Bridge to the Future: Colonial Williamsburg's Animals
(Williamsburg, VA: Colonial Williamsburg Foundation, 2005), 50.

194
One traveler passing
: Morgan,
Slave Counterpart
, 370.

194
In Charleston, black women
: Williams-Forson,
Building Houses Out of Chicken Legs
, 24.

195
“The slaves sell eggs”
: Fredrika Bremer and Mary Botham Howitt,
The Homes of the New World: Impressions of America
(New York: Harper & Bros., 1853), 297.

195
Chicken-rich slaves on one
: Billy G. Smith,
Down and Out in Early America
(University Park: Pennsylvania State University Press, 2004), 113.

195
In one South Carolina rhyme
: Julia Floyd Smith,
Slavery and Rice Culture in Low Country Georgia, 1750–1860
(Knoxville: University of Tennessee Press, 1985), 176.

195
In a deposition, Prosser
: Harry Kollatz,
True Richmond Stories: Historic Tales from Virginia's Capital
(Charleston, SC: History Press, 2007), 43.

196
Her fame as a chef spread
: Mary Randolph,
The Virginia House-wife
(Washington: printed by Davis and Force, 1824), 75.

196
A century later, another
: Josh Ozersky,
Colonel Sanders and the American Dream
(Austin: University of Texas Press, 2012).

196
More than ten thousand people
: John Henry Robinson,
The First Poultry Show in America, Held at the Public Gardens, Boston, Mass., Nov. 15–16, 1849: An Account of the Show Comp. from Original Sources
(Boston, MA: Farm-Poultry Pub., 1913), 8.

196
“Everybody was there”
: Geo P. Burnham,
The History of the Hen Fever: A Humorous Record
(Boston: J. French and Co., 1855), 24.

197
These were from the same stock
: Ibid., 16.

197
In gratitude, the grateful monarch
: Ibid., 129.

197
The consummate American showman
: Ibid., 194.

197
“There will be a marvelous cackling
: “The National Poultry Show,”
New York Times
, February 13, 1854, 8.

197
He repeated the wildly successful
: Francis H. Brown, “Barnum's National Poultry Show Polka,” 1850.

198
Editors warned the public
: “The Hen Fever,”
Genesee Farmer
, January 1851, 16.

198
An upstate New York newspaper
: “A Valuable Hen,”
Southern Cultivator
11 (reprint from
Rochester Daily Advertiser
), 1853.

198
A plantation owner in Rome, Georgia
: “Hard Fare for the Poor Negroes,”
Southern Cultivator
11 (reprint from
Northern Farmer
), 1853.

198
In his 1853 short story
: William B. Dillingham, ed.,
Melville's Short Fiction, 1853–1856
(Athens: University of Georgia Press, 1977).

198
“A cock, more like a golden”
: Ibid., 60.

199
The Plymouth Rock, one
: Andrew F. Smith,
The Saintly Scoundrel: The Life and Times of Dr. John Cook Bennett
(Urbana: University of Illinois Press, 1997), 168.

199
In 1875, a Maine farmer
: B. F. Kaupp,
Poultry Culture Sanitation and Hygiene
(Philadelphia: Saunders, 1920), 37.

199
While holding the bird sacred
: “Marcus Terentius Varro on Agriculture,” accessed March 21, 2014,
http://penelope.uchicago.edu/Thayer/E/Roman/Texts/Varro/de_Re_Rustica/3%2A.html
.

200
Varro recommended housing
: Ibid.

200
“We disregard the chief purpose”
: Robert Joe Cutter,
The Brush and the Spur: Chinese Culture and the Cockfight
(Hong Kong: Chinese University Press, 1989), 141.

200
A second-century AD stone relief
: John R. Clarke,
Art in the Lives of Ordinary Romans: Visual Representation and Non-elite Viewers in Italy, 100 B.C.–A.D. 315
(Berkeley: University of California Press, 2003), 124.

200
The Roman Empire's only surviving
: Apicius,
Apicius: A Critical Edition with an Introduction and an English Translation of the Latin Recipe Text Apicius
, eds. C. W. Grocock and Sally Grainger (Totnes, U.K.: Prospect, 2006), 231.

201
The temperature around
: “Incubation and Embryology Questions and Answers,” University of Illinois Extension, Incubation and Embryology, accessed March 22, 2014,
http://urbanext.illinois.edu/eggs/res32-qa.html
.

201
Jefferson complained in 1812
: H. A. Washington, ed., “The Writings of Thomas Jefferson,” accessed March 22, 2014,
http://www.yamaguchy.com/library/jefferson/1812.html
.

201
But ancient Egyptians and Chinese
: “Hatching Eggs with Incubators,” from
Lessons with Questions
, 1–20 (Topeka, KS: National Poultry Institute, 1914), 185.

201
By the medieval era, Europeans
: Paulina B. Lewicka,
Food and Foodways of Medieval Cairenes: Aspects of Life in an Islamic Metropolis of the Eastern Mediterranean
(Leiden, Netherlands: Brill, 2011), 202.

201
A Medici managed
: The editors and contributors to
The Journal of Horticulture, The Garden Manual for the Cultivation and Operations Required for the Kitchen Garden, Flower Garden, Fruit Garden, Florists' Flowers
(London: Journal of Horticulture & Home Farmer Office, 1893), 253.

202
The French polymath
: René-Antoine Ferchault De Réaumur,
The Art of Hatching and Bringing up Domestick Fowls of All Kinds at Any Time of the Year: Either by Means of the Heat of Hot-beds, or That of Common Fire
, ed. Charles Davis (London: printed for C. Davis, 1750), 6.

202
The resulting chicks delighted
: Bridget Travers and Fran Locher Freiman,
Medical Discoveries: Medical Breakthroughs and the People Who Developed Them
(Detroit: UXL, 1997), 247.

202
In 1880, there were 100 million
:
Report of the Chief of the Bureau of Animal Industry
, vol. 19 (Washington, D.C.: United States Department of Agriculture, U.S. Government Printing Office, 1903).

202
The Talmud calls for Orthodox
: Norman Solomon,
The Talmud: A Selection
(London: Penguin, 2009); Isaiah 58:13.

202
At first, most of the city's supply
: Jay Shockley, “Gansevoort Market Historic District Designation Report,” part 1 (New York City Landmarks Preservation Commission, September 9, 2003).

202
“Two hundred thousand dozen eggs”
: “Eggs from Foreign Lands,”
New York Times
, June 14, 1883, 8.

203
One horrified rabbi wrote
: Sue Fishkoff,
Kosher Nation
(New York: Schocken Books, 2010), 58.

203
In 1900, there were fifteen hundred
: Kenneth T. Jackson,
The Encyclopedia of New York City
(New Haven: Yale University Press, 1995), s.v. “Kosher Foods.”

203
The emigrants called the
: Williams-Forson,
Building Houses Out of Chicken Legs
,
116.

203
Although 90 percent of North Carolina
: William S. Powell, ed.,
The Encyclopedia of North Carolina
(Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press, 2006), s.v. “Poultry.”

204
One North Carolina extension agent
: Lu Ann Jones,
Mama Learned Us to Work: Farm Women in the New South
(Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press, 2002), 85.

204
In 1909, a teenager named Mollie Tugman
: Ibid., 87.

204
Tugman was inspired by articles
: Ibid., 99.

204
Another Carolinian named H. P. McPherson
: Ibid., 87.

204
Poultry was the state's fastest
: Powell,
The Encyclopedia of North Carolina
.

205
“Save hens, raise hens, eat eggs”
: Government advertisement,
San Francisco Chronicle
, April 7, 1918.

205
Another poster featuring a hen stated
: Government advertisement,
American Poultry Advocate
26, 1917, 182.

205
That March, the post office agreed
: George J. Mountney,
Poultry Products Technology
, 3rd ed. (London: Taylor & Francis, 1995), 22.

205
One entrepreneur in California
: Joseph Tumback,
How I Made $10,000 in One Year with 4200 Hens
(n.p.: Joseph H. Tumback, 1919).

205
The wife of a textile manufacturer
: Jones,
Mama Learned Us to Work
, 93.

205
In Delaware, Celia Steele
: Frank Gordy, “National Register of Historic Places Inventory—Nomination Form: First Broiler House,” National Park Service, 1972.

206
In 1925, farmers on Delmarva
: Gordon Sawyer,
The Agribusiness Poultry Industry; A History of Its Development
(New York: Exposition Press, 1971), 37.

206
A U.S. Department of
: Ibid., 46.

206
In 1928, the Republican National
:
Webster's Guide to American History: A Chronological, Geographical, and Biographical Survey and Compendium
(Springfield, MA: Merriam, 1971), s.v. “Chronology 1928; Republican National Committee Advertisement.”

206
What had begun as
: Jones,
Mama Learned Us to Work
,
99.